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Update: '05 6MT 155,000 Miles Original Everything, No rust, Runs like New

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Update: '05 6MT 155,000 Miles Original Everything, No rust, Runs like New

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Old 10-12-2018, 12:10 AM
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Update: '05 6MT 155,000 Miles Original Everything, No rust, Runs like New

2005 6MT Sport (when Sport came w/ABS, ESC, Xenon headlamps, foglamps, etc).

Original owner purchased new

Original motor runs like new

Changed spark plugs (Bosch Iridium), coil packs (BorgWarner made in Poland), and wires for 1st time at 78,000 miles, and 2nd time at 145,000 miles

- Oil/Filter changes 3,500 to 5,000 miles using Denso filter or Purolator Pureone filter and variety of oil (Pennzoil, Kendall, Valvoline, etc., all in 5W-20 to 10W-30).

- Drain & fill coolant every 60,000 miles

- Changed brake pads (Akebono) twice and rotors (Centric) once

- Have not changed manual trans gear oil as of yet - shifts smoothly

- Changed limited diff gear oil once at 90,000 miles

- Obviously several sets of tires, summer and snow

- 4 batteries now including original POS Panasonic that was replaced free by Mazda under TSB along with started motor. Other 3 batteries have been Kirkland made by Interstate bought at Costco (with pro-rated warranty, last one was $48).

- Drive car year round (with snows on from late Nov to April 1)

- Zero rust. I spray Fluid Film and CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor on frame rails every fall and Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector in rear wheel arches, also.

I think that's it.

Xenon headlights are original as are fog lamps.

Had recall for Takata airbags, heat shield and fuel filler neck.

One and only issue with car now is driver side power door actuator doesn't lock using power lock button or FOB (I have to manually lock it which is no big shake).

Oh yeah, have some minor condensation sometimes in passenger side rear tail light clear housing.

Lifetime fuel economy has been 270 to 280 miles per 13.5 gallon fill, and best tanks have been just under or barely over 300 only using Shell 89 octane (lot of highway driving, also,'on those tanks).

Good to touch base with y'all.

p.s. - Car is as tight as new which blows my mind (no flex in chassis, and no interior rattles, buzzes or other annoying sounds or vibrations even at high freeway speeds or over bad road surfaces!

Last edited by RotoRocket; 10-12-2018 at 12:13 AM.
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Old 10-12-2018, 12:24 AM
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color, photo, PRICE?

lol

glws, bump.

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Old 10-12-2018, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by swoope View Post
color, photo, PRICE?

lol

glws, bump.

beers
Hey swoops!

It's not for sale. I am going to keep it essentially as long as it runs or whatever happens. I have company car, too, but am managing to still put 8,000 or so miles on it annually (for some weird reason I love running it in northern snow storms with Nokians on it).

long time no speak - I miss all you guys

Sunlight Silver

I will post some pics. It looks great - garage kept, except for 3'minor dings on upper portion aluminum on passenger suicide door from young daughter hitting it when exiting my wife's Jeep Grand Cherokee in garage - not big deal and I used a pool noodle cut in half and cut into about 3 1/2 foot length with magnets to stick to steel on either side of rear aluminum door now to prevent further dings.

I'd love to see internals of rotary since it's running strong making in-spec compression despite me using about 4 different types and grades/viscosity of oil at random - not sure if it makes difference but I check oil often and never let it get below midpoint mark between two lines and usually keep it at full mark.

Last edited by RotoRocket; 10-12-2018 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RotoRocket View Post
Hey swoops!

It's not for sale. I am going to keep it essentially as long as it runs or whatever happens. I have company car, too, but am managing to still put 8,000 or so miles on it annually (for some weird reason I love running it in northern snow storms with Nokians on it).

long time no speak - I miss all you guys

Sunlight Silver

I will post some pics. It looks great - garage kept, except for 3'minor dings on upper portion aluminum on passenger suicide door from young daughter hitting it when exiting my wife's Jeep Grand Cherokee in garage - not big deal and I used a pool noodle cut in half and cut into about 3 1/2 foot length with magnets to stick to steel on either side of rear aluminum door now to prevent further dings.

I'd love to see internals of rotary since it's running strong making in-spec compression despite me using about 4 different types and grades/viscosity of oil at random - not sure if it makes difference but I check oil often and never let it get below midpoint mark between two lines and usually keep it at full mark.
your are killing it. mine is stunning on the outside, but unsure under the hood.

beers
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:54 AM
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Amazing.
Fix for the minor condensation in the backlights :

2 Questions real quick :
1. Do u premix?
2. How often do u redline it?

Thank u.
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Old 10-12-2018, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Okki-Jakarta View Post
Amazing.
Fix for the minor condensation in the backlights : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0G-nLmKkCs

2 Questions real quick :
1. Do u premix?
2. How often do u redline it?

Thank u.
Thanks for that vid re condensation Okki.

1) I have never pre-mixed.

2) I redline it rarely now (use to recline it more often in first 8 years of ownership).


Also, I use 87 octane about 90% of the time.

This car has been one of the most reliable, least-maintenance intensive vehicles I've ever owned, right up there with a mid 90's Civic, which is hilarious in the sense that it contradicts all the OCD (I'm sure well founded) tips on maintenance and pre-mix and replacing coils every 20,000 miles and etc.

I have the Toyota Camry of RX-8s.
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Old 10-12-2018, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by swoope View Post
your are killing it. mine is stunning on the outside, but unsure under the hood.

beers

Haven't talked to you in loooong time dude. You on original motor (I forgot)?

I need to catch up with regulars.

A lot of the new cars (not all) I test drove recently have become soft and bloated (BMWs *cough*), boring and sterile (Audi *coigh*) or super angry origami creased wedges with giant maws (Lexus *coigh*).
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Old 10-12-2018, 08:09 AM
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Where the heck are you in Michigan, is my question? I'd love to come by for an assist with rust proofing (I have none in the usual body spots and want to keep it that way).
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Old 10-12-2018, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew5190 View Post
Where the heck are you in Michigan, is my question? I'd love to come by for an assist with rust proofing (I have none in the usual body spots and want to keep it that way).
Oxford.

The rust mitigation is super easy. I will post specific instructions today or this weekend.

You don't need any special equipment or even to lift car.

I get aerosol cans of Amsoil HD Metal Protector and Fluid Film from AIS Construction Supply (awesome place).

I order CRC online (it's $8 a can and goes a long way with major wash out resistance).

You just need to hit frame rails (especially at jack points) all along both sides with fluid film and CRC, and clean out gunk/debris from inside horizontal lip of rear wheel arches with something somewhat mildly abrasive with mild solvent until it wipes free of dirt and accumulated debris, then hit it with Amsoil (and CRC if you want to go extra mile because that's a heavy wash area).

Do not get any of these things on brake pads or rotors (obviously).

I was thinking of spraying coils and brake lines this week but they look decent.p still.
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Old 10-12-2018, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by RotoRocket View Post
Oxford.

The rust mitigation is super easy. I will post specific instructions today or this weekend.

You don't need any special equipment or even to lift car.

I get aerosol cans of Amsoil HD Metal Protector and Fluid Film from AIS Construction Supply (awesome place).

I order CRC online (it's $8 a can and goes a long way with major wash out resistance).

You just need to hit frame rails (especially at jack points) all along both sides with fluid film and CRC, and clean out gunk/debris from inside horizontal lip of rear wheel arches with something somewhat mildly abrasive with mild solvent until it wipes free of dirt and accumulated debris, then hit it with Amsoil (and CRC if you want to go extra mile because that's a heavy wash area).

Do not get any of these things on brake pads or rotors (obviously).

I was thinking of spraying coils and brake lines this week but they look decent.p still.
Not too far of a drive from my work, but what you gave looks pretty specific to me, thanks! I'll have to do all of that soon. Gotta keep those "Your 8 looks so good" compliments coming!
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Old 10-12-2018, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Andrew5190 View Post
Not too far of a drive from my work, but what you gave looks pretty specific to me, thanks! I'll have to do all of that soon. Gotta keep those "Your 8 looks so good" compliments coming!
I will post a DIY anyways, and if you are in area this weekend you can come by b/c I have all the stuff and more than I will use.

I learned some of these tricks from a couple of drivers that do large commercial account snow plowing and have to keep plows rust free as truck wheel arches (some of them just roll/cut rear wheel arches).

I also picked up a few tricks on Ford F Series forums - especially guys wanting to keep expensive trucks rust free.

Fluid Film should be applied now b/c it's a creeping oil that will migrate which is what you want.

Amsoil HD Metal Protector - apply before it gets into 30s on regular basis -'don't be afraid to soak inside of rear wheel arches even on sound-proof wool like liner -'just make sure to clean that lip area and dry before application, same as when spraying CRC on frame rails (and cross members if you want).

It's really a super easy process.

You should reapply in maybe late December or early January if we have lots of snow (which means lots of salt).

The CRC sticks like a mother and is very resistant to washing off even in the sloppiest road conditions (I love the stuff as do boat owners for good reason).
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Old 10-12-2018, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RotoRocket View Post
Haven't talked to you in loooong time dude. You on original motor (I forgot)?

I need to catch up with regulars.

A lot of the new cars (not all) I test drove recently have become soft and bloated (BMWs *cough*), boring and sterile (Audi *coigh*) or super angry origami creased wedges with giant maws (Lexus *coigh*).
original motor no, it came out at ~55k miles in the first batch of motor replacements. i think i had the 5th reman made in usa. but the one that came out was running fine.

the second motor went to 131k miles, it was getting weak, and had an offer to get into a 3k mile pettit ots motor for a really good deal.

so second motor came out running well again.. and new pettit motor went in. that motor is, was amazing? since it went in it has gone through a failed cat on track, and a blown coolant hose on track.. had a slight coolant leak in the rear rotor that seems like we have fixed.

but my compression tester has failed and am not sure how sound it is, hope to have it sorted soon.

my rx8 in 140k miles has never stranded my unless something that was modded imperfectly was at fault.



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Old 10-13-2018, 05:42 AM
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The only shocking thing that I read was the infrequent spark plug changes You're getting 12A engine reliability and even then, we replace the spark plugs in a 12A every 24k miles, though they are copper plugs. I do the same in my 8's as well, though its every two years regardless of mileage. I don't drive my 8's very many miles each year. Maybe 3k miles per year. Its nice to read original owner's maintenance schedules and even nicer to see what worked and what has not worked for them. If you're ever down in Ohio, I would be happy to run a rotary specific compression test on your engine at no charge. I'm amazed by the mileage!
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Old 10-13-2018, 06:43 AM
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QC

Bosch iridium spark plugs ??????
Can you share the plugs numbers with us please ?
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:59 AM
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Must be better than NGK
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Old 10-13-2018, 01:10 PM
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Supposedly some people use Denso plugs instead of NGK. Those Denso plugs are colder and also more expensive, but some people claim they also perform better.
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Old 10-13-2018, 03:27 PM
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They are NGK Iridium plugs, not Bosch.

Sorry for mistake everyone.

The 1st set (factory) of plugs were TOAST when removed at 78,000 miles.

I really went contrary regarding plugs, coil packs and ignition wire replacement interval on this car, going 3x the distance than most recommend, and it did not burn me, which is mystifying to me.

The only reason I even changed it then was because car was throwing a code and had relatively mild starting issue that replacement NGK plugs and coil packs resolved.

Like I said, I've used all types and grades of oil, mainly 87 octane, and have gone with approx 75,000 mile spark plug/coil pack change intervals on this car, which is lunacy by recommended standards, and it runs great on original motor at this mileage.

The 3 things I have religiously done are 1) kept oil topped off, 2) regular coolant drains and refills, 3) avoided short trips (8 miles or less).
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