Go ahead and throw tap water in your coolant system on the regular. Report back on the status of your internals and water pump after a few years. Minerals need to be mined like in StarCraft.
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Originally Posted by monchie
(Post 4080480)
There is a 50/50 premix, so tap water should be fine. It depends how low is the coolant level when they add the tap water.
Originally Posted by ken-x8
(Post 4080860)
Does this forum have that capability?
Monchie is one of the last people I'd want to killfile, but there are a couple of others. Ken
Originally Posted by Are-Ex-Eight
(Post 4080870)
100% DISTILLED water is what people SHOULD use when they use concentrated instead of premixed.
Your fine but as others said make sure it's not all water. The hydrometers you buy will even tell you on a temperature scale how low your fluid is good for before it will freeze. but to ensure "trouble free" operation, 30% is what I would use, minimum
Originally Posted by Are-Ex-Eight
(Post 4080988)
Your radiator is filled with more impurities than any city tap water would be. Just saying....
The glycol will change the boiling point (not by much) but more importantly it has superior heat transfer properties and lowers the freezing point. Most engine coolants run around 212 deg F anyway. I don't know if rotarys run hotter or not.... Distilled better than tap - yes. Any reason to worry about tap - no. Most important is you have a 50:50 or close mix and your level is good. Stop freaking the OP out lol. not trying to freak him out but, a properly maintained car will last longer (duh), it's funny that sometimes I visit my friend's garage, some cars pull in with overheating engines and busted radiator. I just asked him like when was the last time you flush your "engine water/coolant", the guy was like "huh? u need to change it? I thought it last forever?" and he has just 90K miles. His bill was like 5K, including complete engine rebuild.
Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
(Post 4081073)
Go ahead and throw tap water in your coolant system on the regular. Report back on the status of your internals and water pump after a few years. Minerals need to be mined like in StarCraft.
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I guess I've never kept a car over 36k miles before so I never worry too much about the 100k plus miles problems lol.
And no I never lease. |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4081086)
Is one of the person's name start with "NYCGP" ...? :eek:
Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
(Post 4081073)
Go ahead and throw tap water in your coolant system on the regular. Report back on the status of your internals and water pump after a few years.
Ken |
Originally Posted by ken-x8
(Post 4081096)
Not by a long shot. You're well up among my favorites, along with Monchie.
Never mind my water pump. You ought to see my kidneys. Ken |
Just to confuse the issue further, deionized water is much more corrosive than tap water, and it can't be pumped through copper or steel pipes. However, once you mix it with coolant, it isn't DI anymore.
The issue with hard water is mineral deposits. |
If the internals are stainless steel the concern is stress corrosion cracking. Since you can't remove heat or pressure it's basically going to fail at a weak or botched weld regardless of the water type.
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Originally Posted by Are-Ex-Eight
(Post 4081117)
Lmao time to flush them out!
Ken |
Originally Posted by Are-Ex-Eight
(Post 4081149)
If the internals are stainless steel the concern is stress corrosion cracking. Since you can't remove heat or pressure it's basically going to fail at a weak or botched weld regardless of the water type.
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^^ yes and no. Corrosion as we typically see it is the oxidation of iron. Remove an element of the corrosion triangle and it doesn't happen.
For alloys such as stainless steel it doesn't see typical corrosion as I pointed out it's prone to stress corrosion cracking caused by free chlorides within the water. Chlorides alone won't do it. Again think of it like a fire triangle in which you have heat chlorides and weakspots or high pressures. Remove one and you won't see corrosion in stainless steels. 181 credits of Engineering suggests to me so. I am no expert in radiators though so I don't know what material we are dealing with in our cars but I would not stress over tap water. |
Originally Posted by ken-x8
(Post 4081096)
Not by a long shot. You're well up among my favorites, along with Monchie.
Ken Whoa...what a relief, lol |
Originally Posted by oltmann
(Post 4081128)
Just to confuse the issue further, deionized water is much more corrosive than tap water, and it can't be pumped through copper or steel pipes. However, once you mix it with coolant, it isn't DI anymore.
The issue with hard water is mineral deposits. so to all you lab rats out there... if your car overheats while driving to work dont grab a box of deionized water to top it off :spank: |
Originally Posted by Are-Ex-Eight
(Post 4081317)
^^ yes and no. Corrosion as we typically see it is the oxidation of iron. Remove an element of the corrosion triangle and it doesn't happen.
For alloys such as stainless steel it doesn't see typical corrosion as I pointed out it's prone to stress corrosion cracking caused by free chlorides within the water. Chlorides alone won't do it. Again think of it like a fire triangle in which you have heat chlorides and weakspots or high pressures. Remove one and you won't see corrosion in stainless steels. 181 credits of Engineering suggests to me so. I am no expert in radiators though so I don't know what material we are dealing with in our cars but I would not stress over tap water. I don't study Engineering so I dunno but what I do know is the less impurities the better. Tap water is called hard water and it's bad for engines for a reason. |
Originally Posted by nycgps
(Post 4081410)
As far as I remember it's all just Iron and Aluminum
I don't study Engineering so I dunno but what I do know is the less impurities the better. Tap water is called hard water and it's bad for engines for a reason. Ken |
The water pump is made of aluminum.
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You Gus are killing, can't stop laughing, you did not solve the problem but anyway the white bottle is written coolant only so maybe we must stick to the manufacturer's recommendations.
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^Trying to get your post count up? ;) LOL
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Aluminum is ver susceptible to pitting corrosion in chloride environments.
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Originally Posted by TBOSE2GP
(Post 4600501)
You Gus are killing, can't stop laughing, you did not solve the problem...
Ken |
I'm new in this RX world, bought the car in March 2014 and it's been a learning curve all the way, i used to be a Volvo only driver.
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