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So Mazda finally agreed that glowing cat is not normal. They decided to take it in for compression test. Im getting the results tomorrow or next week. So anything above 7 is ok right?
As far as i remember the warranty on the engine was increased by two years, so that makes a total of 7 years?
I'm wondering, could there be significant carbon buildup since the engine has been running rich like a pig for more than half a year? Could the compression get better now that the main issue is fixed and it has normal trims?Seems like engine i steadily improving now since vacuum leak was fixed. Runs easily up to 200kph
I'm wondering, could there be significant carbon buildup since the engine has been running rich like a pig for more than half a year? Could the compression get better now that the main issue is fixed and it has normal trims?Seems like engine i steadily improving now since vacuum leak was fixed. Runs easily up to 200kph
The carbon is definitely not helping, but I wouldn't expect a miracle cure. While that second rotor isn't doing so hot, if the car runs, enjoy it. Engines in worse condition than yours drive just fine. The sign you want to watch out for is difficulty starting the car when it is fully warmed up.
Once that starts to happen, you'll have to decide how you want to proceed. It could take years to get to that point, or it could take weeks. So just enjoy the car, now that it's running
Noooo. There is no warranty in the world that restarts when you get something replaced under warranty.
The carbon is definitely not helping, but I wouldn't expect a miracle cure. While that second rotor isn't doing so hot, if the car runs, enjoy it. Engines in worse condition than yours drive just fine. The sign you want to watch out for is difficulty starting the car when it is fully warmed up.
Once that starts to happen, you'll have to decide how you want to proceed. It could take years to get to that point, or it could take weeks. So just enjoy the car, now that it's running
Any possibility of false/bad readings on the compression test? Any reason it could show lower than normal?
Well here i Norway we get same warranty on new part as the original, as long as the part is genuine.
Any possibility of false/bad readings on the compression test? Any reason it could show lower than normal?
I've seen different testers show different results on the same car. I would trust Mazda's equipment though. Regardless, there is nothing you can do to change the reality, whether the reading is accurate or not. Just drive the car until you start to have actual problems and diagnose from there. You can certainly try de-carbing it, and it might help a little.
Originally Posted by kanie12
Well here i Norway we get same warranty on new part as the original, as long as the part is genuine.
I've seen different testers show different results on the same car. I would trust Mazda's equipment though. Regardless, there is nothing you can do to change the reality, whether the reading is accurate or not. Just drive the car until you start to have actual problems and diagnose from there. You can certainly try de-carbing it, and it might help a little.
Technically the engine isn't new, it's a previously used engine rebuilt with new parts where required.
Actually its from when the new part was assembled and its same length on warranty for replacement part or the factory one. Here is from Mitsubishi webpage, applies to other brands aswell:
Warranty Period: A completely new Mitsubishi is covered by the warranty for 5 years or 100,000 km (Outlander PHEV 18 model is from January 1, 2018 is covered 7 years / 140,000 km), which occurs first. The warranty applies from the stamp date in the service booklet and assumes that the car has performed service at an authorized service point according to the current model service program.
Replacement Parts and Accessories: Original parts and accessories from Mitsubishi Motors have 5 years or 100,000 km mileage for factory defects. The warranty applies from the date the product was assembled. All you need to do is display the invoice from when the product was purchased and / or assembled and the dealer will take care of the rest. If other parts have been damaged due to factory defects on a product, the warranty will also cover this. Contact your dealer for further details.
In this case i should have 8 years warranty on the part that was put in.
After i did fault code clear and throttle body reset(brake pedal 20 times) and now idle is bad. It almost chokes. Before the compression test at dealer LTFT was down to 0.8.. have no clue whats going on.
Great. Ffs. Check around the engine again for loose hose? I still have the old MAF. Maybe i could replace it. Two simple screws it seems.
You can try the MAF, but I doubt that it's. You AFR is good so its getting the right amount of air and fuel. It's just not getting that air through the MAF, and having to add maximum fuel trim to compensate.
Loose hose, cracked hose, cracked vacuum canister, open/unconnected connector on the intake. Etc.
You can try the MAF, but I doubt that it's. You AFR is good so its getting the right amount of air and fuel. It's just not getting that air through the MAF, and having to add maximum fuel trim to compensate.
Loose hose, cracked hose, cracked vacuum canister, open/unconnected connector on the intake. Etc.
Ok thanks bud. I guess the car stays in the garage until the dealer opens after easter.
To me it seems like LTFT is stuck on 22.7%. The STFT never goes above 6%, so why would LTFT not correct itself after 10min+ idle? Other day i saw it fluctuate between 0,8% and 22%, just in couple seconds, up/down. Couldnt find any loose house.
There are three LTFT values stored for different MAF rates.
Below 8g/s
between 8g/s and 20g/s
Above 20g/s
If you see the LTFT fluctuate wildly, you're probably transitioning between these three conditions.
If you don't have a smoke machine, here's what I'd do the methodically search for a vacuum leak:
Purchase a $40 MityVac hand pump
Disconnect the VFAD hose from the UIM (behind and to the right of the throttle body).
Connect the MityVac to the VFAD hose you just disconnect and pull vacuum (may take a while since you're evacuating a reservoir). Let it sit for a few minutes. It should hold steady for a while. If not, follow the hose towards the VFAD and test at each joint along the way.
See that hose with the one-way check valve near the solenoids? Disconnect the hose from the LIM and connect the MityVac there. Pull vacuum (again, may take a while since you're evacuating a reservoir). Let it sit for a few minutes. It should hold steady. If not, follow the same procedure as you did for the VFAD.
You can check the three breather hoses upstream from the throttle body but I doubt they're the source of your problem since they don't see much in the way of vacuum (mostly just a Bernoulli type effect as air rushes past the ports on the accordion tube).
Nothing yet? How's your brake feel? Disconnect the brake booster hose from the top of the LIM and connect the MityVac to that hose.
If you still haven't found the leak, it's time to check seals. Check the seals around the UIM runners, LIM, throttle body, etc.
There are three LTFT values stored for different MAF rates.
Below 8g/s
between 8g/s and 20g/s
Above 20g/s
If you see the LTFT fluctuate wildly, you're probably transitioning between these three conditions.
If you don't have a smoke machine, here's what I'd do the methodically search for a vacuum leak:
Purchase a $40 MityVac hand pump
Disconnect the VFAD hose from the UIM (behind and to the right of the throttle body).
Connect the MityVac to the VFAD hose you just disconnect and pull vacuum (may take a while since you're evacuating a reservoir). Let it sit for a few minutes. It should hold steady for a while. If not, follow the hose towards the VFAD and test at each joint along the way.
See that hose with the one-way check valve near the solenoids? Disconnect the hose from the LIM and connect the MityVac there. Pull vacuum (again, may take a while since you're evacuating a reservoir). Let it sit for a few minutes. It should hold steady. If not, follow the same procedure as you did for the VFAD.
You can check the three breather hoses upstream from the throttle body but I doubt they're the source of your problem since they don't see much in the way of vacuum (mostly just a Bernoulli type effect as air rushes past the ports on the accordion tube).
Nothing yet? How's your brake feel? Disconnect the brake booster hose from the top of the LIM and connect the MityVac to that hose.
If you still haven't found the leak, it's time to check seals. Check the seals around the UIM runners, LIM, throttle body, etc.
Is this normal for LTFT to fluctuate like this when i accelerate? LTFT
You're revving it out without load, the data from that is meaningless. You want data from a warm idle or from warm steady cruise. I feel like in this case, there is no more data that can help find the problem, you need to start doing things.
There's a video? Sorry, my employer blocks a bunch of things.
STFT will fluctuate depending on momentary changes in any of a billion different parameters.
The computer averages out the STFT and periodically updates the LTFT with the new value over time.
If you are seeing rapid changes in LTFT as you accelerate (or rev without load) it's because the computer is switching between the three different LTFT zones based on MAF sensor input.
You're revving it out without load, the data from that is meaningless. You want data from a warm idle or from warm steady cruise. I feel like in this case, there is no more data that can help find the problem, you need to start doing things.
Guess what, Mazda just informed me they found out the exhaust is clogged just after the cat or end of cat. They are saying this is causing the fuel trim fluctuations. Go figures! Seems to me most of the engine failures on RX-8 is due to clogged cat.
I just asked them to check exhaust just one month ago.
Just got the car back from Mazda after cat replacement. Still no change or improvement on LTFT, stuck on 22%.
Mazda said cat replacement would fix the issue... they even billed me. I called them and asked what was point og changing cat if the readings were the same. They didnt have any answer, just told me to deliver the car again. Unbeleivable, they are just guessing and billing their customers....idiots.
03-22-2018, 12:09 PM
Check around the engine again for loose hose? I still have the old MAF. Maybe i could replace it. Two simple screws it seems.
