Series 2 Maintenance Schedule
#1
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Series 2 Maintenance Schedule
I am looking at 2010 Rx8 with 30k miles. He just did the 30k maintenence (coils, oil change, etc). But he also said the dealer said the coils didn't need to be changed. This raised a red flag for me as I thought the coils were changed with the sparks every 30k?
#2
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
That is the (highly suggested) maintenance schedule. They of course don't have to do that just like changing oil every 3000 miles isn't a requirement. If you want something to last and the weak link for major repairs is the ignition and oil, then you opt for the more frequent schedule.
#4
Smoking turbo yay
Dealers are naturally stupid when it comes to this and follows the Owner's Manual schedule. Mine said that I didn't need to change my coolant when I bought the car, but I insisted and they did it.
While some say S2 coils are better, this still happened to an S2.
If you look at where the fire is, it started from the shifter area - which is right above the cat. Cat usually gets killed by unburnt fuel, which comes from dead coils.
So yeah, I still think replace every 30k miles is a good idea unless you use a BHR ignition kit.
While some say S2 coils are better, this still happened to an S2.
If you look at where the fire is, it started from the shifter area - which is right above the cat. Cat usually gets killed by unburnt fuel, which comes from dead coils.
So yeah, I still think replace every 30k miles is a good idea unless you use a BHR ignition kit.
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gwilliams6 (11-13-2017)
#5
40th anniversary Edition
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
#6
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I still change the coils every 30k even though I use the latest "C" revision of the Mazda coils, but that's because I want to do it preventatively. I don't know what a better interval would be for the most recent coil revision, so I'm erring on the safe side.
That said, it's hard to argue that failing to do this is a disaster or anything. As long as they used the latest coil revision, they should be good for a while.
You say the PO changed the coils, but then suggest he didn't. If he didn't, you'll want to change them soon. But if he did, you have time.
#7
Smoking turbo yay
The idea to change the coils every 30k is a hold-over from the first-gen coils, which sucked. They have been through some revisions since then. Newer coils should be better.
I still change the coils every 30k even though I use the latest "C" revision of the Mazda coils, but that's because I want to do it preventatively. I don't know what a better interval would be for the most recent coil revision, so I'm erring on the safe side.
That said, it's hard to argue that failing to do this is a disaster or anything. As long as they used the latest coil revision, they should be good for a while.
You say the PO changed the coils, but then suggest he didn't. If he didn't, you'll want to change them soon. But if he did, you have time.
I still change the coils every 30k even though I use the latest "C" revision of the Mazda coils, but that's because I want to do it preventatively. I don't know what a better interval would be for the most recent coil revision, so I'm erring on the safe side.
That said, it's hard to argue that failing to do this is a disaster or anything. As long as they used the latest coil revision, they should be good for a while.
You say the PO changed the coils, but then suggest he didn't. If he didn't, you'll want to change them soon. But if he did, you have time.
The dude who got his S2 burnt down said, "got in and the car immediately started driving 'off', it was underpowered and made a pretty bad noise while driving." This is further evidence that something's wrong with those coils.
Can't say anything about Revision C. I have a set of them, but they are just sitting around since I installed my BHR D-585 coils. Apparently, the white marks on the coils don't mean anything, so whether or not they last is still up in the air, and most people recommend BHR or other D-585 coil kits to newbies.
#9
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Correct. My R3 has a pretty late production date and had B coils on it when I got it.
No argument here. My point is that if you have freshly changed late-revision coils, you shouldn't have to change them immediately.
The dude who got his S2 burnt down said, "got in and the car immediately started driving 'off', it was underpowered and made a pretty bad noise while driving." This is further evidence that something's wrong with those coils.
Can't say anything about Revision C. I have a set of them, but they are just sitting around since I installed my BHR D-585 coils. Apparently, the white marks on the coils don't mean anything, so whether or not they last is still up in the air, and most people recommend BHR or other D-585 coil kits to newbies.
Can't say anything about Revision C. I have a set of them, but they are just sitting around since I installed my BHR D-585 coils. Apparently, the white marks on the coils don't mean anything, so whether or not they last is still up in the air, and most people recommend BHR or other D-585 coil kits to newbies.
#12
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
Dealers are naturally stupid when it comes to this and follows the Owner's Manual schedule. Mine said that I didn't need to change my coolant when I bought the car, but I insisted and they did it.
While some say S2 coils are better, this still happened to an S2.
If you look at where the fire is, it started from the shifter area - which is right above the cat. Cat usually gets killed by unburnt fuel, which comes from dead coils.
So yeah, I still think replace every 30k miles is a good idea unless you use a BHR ignition kit.
While some say S2 coils are better, this still happened to an S2.
If you look at where the fire is, it started from the shifter area - which is right above the cat. Cat usually gets killed by unburnt fuel, which comes from dead coils.
So yeah, I still think replace every 30k miles is a good idea unless you use a BHR ignition kit.
#14
Smoking turbo yay
I can't imagine myself living with that perpetual cold start smell. HJS cats eliminate this problem(for a price).
#16
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Meanwhile, anyone unlucky enough to drive behind you gets gassed the whole time.
The smell is annoying, but you get used to it. The combustion byproducts are toxic, and there's no getting used to that.
There's a reason all new cars have cats, and it ain't the smell.
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UnknownJinX (11-14-2017)
#17
Rican
Of course.
Meanwhile, anyone unlucky enough to drive behind you gets gassed the whole time.
The smell is annoying, but you get used to it. The combustion byproducts are toxic, and there's no getting used to that.
There's a reason all new cars have cats, and it ain't the smell.
Meanwhile, anyone unlucky enough to drive behind you gets gassed the whole time.
The smell is annoying, but you get used to it. The combustion byproducts are toxic, and there's no getting used to that.
There's a reason all new cars have cats, and it ain't the smell.
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#20
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Correct. Which is exactly why I find it so insane that anyone would think making it 10 times worse is okay.
With the cat, the RX-8's biggest emissions problem is CO2. Annoying, and bad for global warming, but not too harmful to people. Without the cat, the car chucks out a shitload more NOx, CO, and hydrocarbons. MUCH worse. Those are not comparable scenarios.
With the cat, the RX-8's biggest emissions problem is CO2. Annoying, and bad for global warming, but not too harmful to people. Without the cat, the car chucks out a shitload more NOx, CO, and hydrocarbons. MUCH worse. Those are not comparable scenarios.
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gwilliams6 (11-16-2017)
#23
Rican
Then again, you are a hypocrite for talking about "saving the environment" but drive and 8.
I can bet that you made more damage to the environment that I did during all of 2017, I drove her about 2500 miles, how many miles did you drive?
And why? no time, work, family and commitments. But I bet my 2500 with a smile in my face were more enjoyable than whatever you drove. I don't kid myself, I know how bad this car is for the environment, thats why I have another 3 cars that I drive when I'm not driving this one, including a Mazda 3 that does about 40 mpg in the highway.
Get off your high horse and go preach to someone else.
I can bet that you made more damage to the environment that I did during all of 2017, I drove her about 2500 miles, how many miles did you drive?
And why? no time, work, family and commitments. But I bet my 2500 with a smile in my face were more enjoyable than whatever you drove. I don't kid myself, I know how bad this car is for the environment, thats why I have another 3 cars that I drive when I'm not driving this one, including a Mazda 3 that does about 40 mpg in the highway.
Get off your high horse and go preach to someone else.
#24
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You're the one who keeps bringing up the environment. Not sure why. I'm talking about NOx, CO, and hydrocarbon emissions being bad for people to breathe.
If you only drive your decatted RX-8 2500 miles a year, then yes, that's a damn sight better than if it were a DD. It'd be nice if you could add that as a caveat when you extol the virtues of decatting this car.
AFAIK, NOx conversion efficiency is near 100% in the AFR range the car normally runs. CO and hydrocarbon conversion efficiencies need AFRs closer to stoich; that's less common with my driving, but I'm always surprised how often the PCM is able to keep things in that neighborhood. So yes, it might be very interesting indeed to compare NOx, CO, and hydrocarbon emissions between your usage and mine. Spoiler, though: you probably beat my NOx total in your RX-8's first 1500 miles.
If you only drive your decatted RX-8 2500 miles a year, then yes, that's a damn sight better than if it were a DD. It'd be nice if you could add that as a caveat when you extol the virtues of decatting this car.
AFAIK, NOx conversion efficiency is near 100% in the AFR range the car normally runs. CO and hydrocarbon conversion efficiencies need AFRs closer to stoich; that's less common with my driving, but I'm always surprised how often the PCM is able to keep things in that neighborhood. So yes, it might be very interesting indeed to compare NOx, CO, and hydrocarbon emissions between your usage and mine. Spoiler, though: you probably beat my NOx total in your RX-8's first 1500 miles.
#25
Smoking turbo yay
Correct. Which is exactly why I find it so insane that anyone would think making it 10 times worse is okay.
With the cat, the RX-8's biggest emissions problem is CO2. Annoying, and bad for global warming, but not too harmful to people. Without the cat, the car chucks out a shitload more NOx, CO, and hydrocarbons. MUCH worse. Those are not comparable scenarios.
With the cat, the RX-8's biggest emissions problem is CO2. Annoying, and bad for global warming, but not too harmful to people. Without the cat, the car chucks out a shitload more NOx, CO, and hydrocarbons. MUCH worse. Those are not comparable scenarios.
A good cat like HJS Tuning cat also won't rob you any performance.
While shooting flames would be awesome, the tradeoff isn't worth it. Even if you ignore the environmental effects, there are still the issues with your own health, your rear bumper paint, as well as potential tickets. I have a buddy who wants to become a cop when he graduates, and he said that while BC doesn't have emission tests, if the cops suspect that you don't have an emission device, they can pull you over and with the stench, they can just give you an expensive ticket on spot.
As for Prius, I personally don't like them more because of its driving dynamics(or lack thereof), which really applies to all Toyotas(save for the Toyobaru twin). If we have affordable hybrid sports cars, I am all for it.
boricua, you drive on tracks?
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