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furansu 06-19-2018 02:48 PM

RX-8 Restoration : Planning Phase
 
4 Attachment(s)
Background
I previously posted in interest of RX-8's, possibly replacing my 2016 Mazda Miata with one. I have previously owned an FD and an FC 'vert, having always loved rotaries, but for a time, life dictated I part ways with them to focus on other things. In March of this year I purchased a non-running RX-8 from a Mazda dealer for 'dirt-cheap' ($500). Dirt cheap is subjective to patience and how much frustration one is willing to endure. I wanted a good but not perfect car, in need of an engine so that I could get it mechanically-perfect and enjoy driving the beans out of it without worries.

2007 Mazda RX-8 GT
Attachment 286206

Attachment 286207

Attachment 286208

Two weeks ago I sold my Miata to the same dealer, removing a massive car-payment from the equation and freeing my attention to focus on the RX-8. I ordered a re-manufactured 13B-MSP (6 port) from the dealer on the same day. The engines have been on national back-order since May, with most-recent accounts stating that they will be available this week or next.

2016 Mazda MX-5 Club
Attachment 286209

While I plan to write a dedicated post once actual work is underway as well as possibly some short videos on the whole adventure, I need to plan out everything I'm going to accomplish while swapping the engine. I wanted to query the hive mind for insights on what I am aiming for, what I should give a miss to, and what I have overlooked that I need to add in.


Objective
Achieve a reliable and mechanically known RX-8 that I can drive with enthusiasm (read: thrash but not abuse) daily, while auto-crossing, and maybe even some road coarse work, if time allows.


Tasks
Actions to be done, what they relate to, and what parts are under consideration if replacing or changing in specification from stock.

Engine
---Thoroughly clean engine bay, remove cloth insulation if too damaged.
---Visually inspect engine harness for damage or failing thermal/abrasion wrap (I'm not quite ready to build a new harness, so I'll likely just patch any questionable spots as-needed)
---Validate OEM catalyst is visually good (Replace or remove)
---Inspect motor mounts for damage or wear. (Replace as-needed)
---Install new Mazda reman
---Replace exterior seals (intake and exhaust mating surfaces, not sure what else may be required just yet)
---Replace drive belts

Fueling
---Send fuel injectors off for cleaning/testing.
---Replace fuel filter

Lubrication
---Clean and test oil injectors (replace as-needed)
---Rebuild OMP lines (I haven't decided if I will make hard lines with flexible sections at the pump, or if I will just use PFA for the full runs)
---Change oil
---Replace oil filter
---Install SOHN adapter with tank kit

Induction
---Clean and test all intake mechanisms (APV, VDI, and SSV)
---Delete SAI
---Delete VFA (and de-shroud OEM airbox inlet)
---Test vacuum solenoids (replace as-needed)
---Replace all vacuum lines

Ignition
---Replace OE coils with AC Delco D585 (I still see mixed stories about how reliable these are, but they are said to be miles better than our stock Mitsu units)
---Make/install adapter harness for new coils
---Replace OE spark plug wires (Custom made 10MM)
---Replace spark plugs

Thermal Management
---Replace OE radiator with two-pass aluminum style.
---Inspect radiator shrouds, foam, and fans (repair or replace as-needed)
---Replace OE coolant bottle with a new OE bottle, aluminum alternative, or AST
---Inspect oil coolers, oil cooler lines, and oil cooler shrouds for damage (repair or replace as-neeeded)
---Replace all coolant lines
---Change coolant

Driveline
---Inspect transmission and differential mounts for damage or wear. (Replace as-needed)
---Change transmission and differential fluids
---Replace shifter bushings
---Inspect and possibly beef-up (weld) clutch pedal bracket
---Inspect and possibly replace clutch (disc, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing) with new OEM or Exedy OEM-specification unit
---If replacing clutch: considering an ACT Prolight flywheel, though there is significant added cost due to the flywheel not including the required counterweight.

Suspension and Braking
---Inspect swaybar and suspension bushings for damage or wear. (Replace as-needed)
---Inspect brakes for leaks or wear (Replace as-needed, in axle pairs)
---Change clutch/brake fluid
---Inspect shocks/coils for damage and leaks. (Replace all four if any found bad)

Chassis and Misc.
---Replace air filter and cabin filter


Components
Parts, fluids, and other items that will be used as part of the task execution

Parts
---Mazda Reman 13B-MSP
---WIX air filter and cabin air filters
---Silicone vacuum lines (black)
---Mazda OEM oil filter
---Mazda OEM gaskets
---Mazda OEM coolant lines
---CSF 3164 all-aluminum radiator
---Gates Racing drive belts
---SOHN Adapter + External tank kit/mount
---NGK OEM specified spark plugs
---AC Delco D585 ignition coils
---Mazda OEM shifter bushings
---Centric brake rotors
---StopTech Sport brake pads

Fluids
---Oil: Castrol 5w30 full-synthetic or equivalent
---Oil-injection: Lucas FD-rated semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil
---Oil pre-mix: Lucas FD-rated semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil
---Transmission: Motorcraft(Ford) XT-M5-QS
---Differential: Whatever meets specification
---Coolant: Mazda FL-22 (mixed to spec)
---Brake/Clutch: Motul RBF600


Maintenance, as planned
Routines and standard maintenance that will take place outside of normally specified maintenance to insure reliability.

Fluids
---Full-synthetic oil changes every 5k. Oil will also be changed after track days, out of cycle
---Full-synthetic 2 stroke oil via SOHN + Premix
---Coolant and brake fluid changes every 24 months. Fluid will also be changed after track days, out of cycle
---Warm-up before take off, meaning coolant reaches at least 130*, and no high-RPM or high-load until up to full operating temp.







I attempted to be as comprehensive as possible. Hopefully I've got most of what I need (though engine removal/inspection may illuminate additional concerns) -- anything else I should consider that is general to the platform?

UnknownJinX 06-19-2018 06:26 PM

Sorry to hear you have to sell your ND.

For the fuel filter: the fuel pump has a recall going on right now, so you can get the pump replaced free of charge. After that, you can keep it or do the S2 fuel pump mod.

(There is a suspension and airbag recall for S1 as well)

For the fuel injector cleaning: I am always curious about the ultrasonic ones and how they work. The lack of local resources and thus, long vehicle downtime prevented me from looking farther into this. Let us know the results.

For the manual trans fluid: Motorcraft(Ford) XT-M5-QS works pretty well.

blackmount 06-20-2018 07:56 AM

Definitely the proper way to take on a RX-8.

I am jealous of the color too.

furansu 06-20-2018 10:13 AM


Originally Posted by UnknownJinX (Post 4863016)
Sorry to hear you have to sell your ND.

For the fuel filter: the fuel pump has a recall going on right now, so you can get the pump replaced free of charge. After that, you can keep it or do the S2 fuel pump mod.

(There is a suspension and airbag recall for S1 as well)

For the fuel injector cleaning: I am always curious about the ultrasonic ones and how they work. The lack of local resources and thus, long vehicle downtime prevented me from looking farther into this. Let us know the results.

For the manual trans fluid: Motorcraft(Ford) XT-M5-QS works pretty well.

Part of me will miss the ND as it was a lot of fun and there is a certain enjoyment to convertibles; however, being a new car with a high monthly cost meant I was limited in what I could do to it modification-wise, and I felt nervous tracking it due to the high-dollar risk if I goofed. With the RX-8 I can enjoy it thoroughly, modify to my heart's content, and not stress so much about chips, dings, or goof ups since the car is already less than perfect, and was so much less expensive to start with. It won't necessarily be a cheap car due to everything I intend to put into it mechanically, but it should be sound, and less mentally taxing to drive to the fullest compared to a 30,000$ Miata.

I'll check into the recalls, the NHTSA site says my car presently has zero recalls active, but I'll circle back with the dealer once I have it running. Is the filter built into the pump assembly, or is it an external filter, like the FD? I think I am outside the window for the suspension, from memory it was an early-build control arm issue, but worth a check anyways.

I have an electrical engineer friend that is building his own ultrasonic cleaner, though the project has been shelved for now due to work demands. He had the cleaning mechanisms sorted out, with the measurement and test elements still to implement. I'll likely use Witchhunter, they did a great job on my FD injectors and included pre and post cleaning test data for my records. I have also purchased serviced injectors with good luck from UREMCO (for my Jeep), though they don't provide any data to confirm cleaning offered a benefit.

Thank you for the fluid recommendation, I've updated my notes above. I also corrected my incorrect data on 2 stroke oil, as the one I've been using is semi-synthetic.

furansu 06-22-2018 11:15 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Saturday I picked up a used (and presumed bad) Renesis 6-port.
Attachment 286203

I intended to pull my engine, take them both apart and keep the best parts between them, saving for a future rebuild. However, my reman from Mazda arrived yesterday, so I may just give this to them as the core, allowing me to get the RX-8 back up and running faster. It'd be easier to hold out if I already had the required tools to disassemble this one properly (54mm socket, bigger impact gun, flywheel locking tool, engine stand adapter, etc)

Reman from Mazda, sent on June 7th, 2018 (possibly the build date?) -- arrived at my dealer in Colorado on June 21st, 2018
Attachment 286204


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