Rotella
 

Anyone else running Rotella T 15w40 with Omp still installed?

Commence bashing me now boys😂

yes, but with sohn. I have ran it through the omp tank.

What lead you to switch?

I've seen a reference or 2 for it having some oil wear materials that new gas oils don't have. So I figured what the heck. It keeps the diesels alive forever.

That was my thought process and years ago I met a guy who use to race Porsche gt2s and he said he was using Rotella in his t78 turbo FD.

Look at the used oil analysis thread. Myself and others have tested Rotella T6 5W-40 and it does fine, diesel oils have more anti-wear agents. But I use Mobil1 0W-40. If you live somewhere really cold then you might want to reconsider a 15W.

Yes it gets really cold here, I just run 5w20 in the winter. Hopefully the car won't have to see this next winter. I think I'll try the t6 on the next oil change. I read that thread a few weeks ago. But I am very happy with the Rotella T and ran it in my FC with no issues.

A few months ago, Wally World was selling 5 quart bottles of T6 5W40 for $15 each. I bought a case.

It is important to note, you do not want to use diesel oil if you have a cat.

No cat! And yea Walmart has the to rotella t for 12 right now!

The first number is all that matters in terms of weather, just run 5W-40 all year round, no reason to switch to 5W-20.

I thought this was going to be about a rotary music festival.

I have always ran rotella in the 8, 15w 40 all summer. Plus a vote from me

Yes, it was installed with my reman (98601 miles on original engine before being killed by coolant tank failure), and was recommended by the installer for year round use (alternate options he recommended were 20W50 for Summer and 10W30 for cooler weather).

Installer must have been an old guy, modern oils are a lot better than the old 20w50 and 10w30 days....

I don't see the logic in a '20w' anything - too thick at startup, causing filter bypass and possible starvation/wear, high crank amps, poor circulation.

A good name-brand 5w or even 0w is better in every case.

10w30s & 20w50s can be made from cheapo 'bright stock' oils with minimal additives - you are cheating yourself of the advances in synthetics in the last 30 years.

You can't make a 5w oil without some high tech synthetic basestocks.

Rotella T6 is one of the best....

Well some top rotary race engine builders recommend 20W50 along with more bearing clearance and higher oil pressure regulator mods they do ....

So if your '8 has larger bearing clearances, and higher pressure oil pump - what does that have to do with anything?

Hot thick oil is good for racing, but NOTHING else.

I'm talking about the cold viscosity, lower numbers is settled science, end of debate.

Check the factory fill on ANY modern high performance car - you won't find one 20w50.

Porsche, Vette, AMG - keep looking, it's never a good choice.

First, you made an "absolute" statement that wasn't really absolute

Second, this thread is about Mazda's recommended 5W20 fill not being adequate. So making the argument that because no factory fill is 20W50 is kind of ironic. If they can recommend the wrong thing, then it's just as possible they might not recommend the right thing either. As always, it just depends ... like us folks who live in the hot SW USA ;)

OK then, let's just go with your "some people use 20w50" anecdote.

Honestly, sometimes it seems you just like to argue.

That's odd, I thought we were having a discussion :dunno: Just curious to understand how it became an arguement after my counter-response rather than your own?

However, since you did ask "what does that have to do with anything", the 20W50 oil use in a rotary debate is as old as the rotary engine itself. I seem to recall a well known professional rotary racing team move away from 0Wxx oil to 5W or 10Wxx oil. Why would they do that?

20W50 is rated acceptable down to 20*F. So if you don't live in a cold weather area or change to lighter weight in the winter time then what are the detriments compared to the benefits on an engine well known to suffer both engine oil overheating more than most and engine oil fuel dilution quicker than most?

Further, unless you have a gauge or pressure device directly on both the oil filter inlet and outlet passages to determine the actual differential pressure across it then you have no basis to claim whether the oil filter bypass is being engaged or not. The value/magnitude of the oil pressure reading on just one side or the other is in itself meaningless in that regard.

I also clarified my initial response with "it just depends", which means there are a variety of correct responses depending on the particular application specifics. Funny how that defines me as the person arguing :squint:




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BMW uses 10W60 factory fill for for several M engines. But I do know my bosses Panamera, Macan Turbo, GLE AMG, and SLS AMG recommend 0W-40


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...564e06c434.png

The Mclaren P1 also uses Mobil1 0W-40.

I wonder if going with a narrower viscosity range is more about minimizing viscosity modifiers which may break down more quickly than the base oil.

Yup.

Which is less and less of an issue by the day, incidentally.

Yeh thulis geezer was saying his new 3series burns 3litre in a 5k kilometer service interval