replacing injectors
Hey everyone,
i'm about to hit the 100k mark and was thinking I should get new injectors. Couldn't hurt so why not? Can anyone tell me where to get stock injectors without going through mazda? thanks! |
No need to get new ones. Take your existing ones out and send them to Jon at Fuel Injector Connection for cleaning and testing. He's a great guy and used to do injector reconditioning for some of the big auto parts chains nationwide. I send all my rx7 injectors to him, and also had him do the ones in my rx8.
Cost is around $20 per injector, which is about $100 less than you'll spend on new injectors. He's in atlanta, so if you're in the eastern US this is usually your fastest bet. You could even buy a used set from a lower mile engine and send him those cores, and then simply swap them with your originals later to save downtime, then sell your originals for what you paid for the first set. |
not a normal maintenance item but if you really want to make a lot of work for yourself - go for it .
|
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 3705741)
not a normal maintenance item but if you really want to make a lot of work for yourself - go for it .
|
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
(Post 3705920)
You'd be surprised at the numbers I see from injectors that I send out to get cleaned. Some flow 10-15% less than rated. Some also leak and spray poorly.
But also remember that the ECU has fuel trims to adjust for that . Worst case you might get a situation where one rotor is seeing more fuel than the other but because the stock fueling program runs the engine so rich there is very little chance of any damage from this . I can see it being important to check on a race engine or for FI ,but on an NA street car - not so much . Especially seeing as it is such a huge effort to get the things out (for a novice) . He is more likely to create extra problems through doing it than make any kind of improvement . |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 3707845)
OK .
But also remember that the ECU has fuel trims to adjust for that . Worst case you might get a situation where one rotor is seeing more fuel than the other but because the stock fueling program runs the engine so rich there is very little chance of any damage from this . I can see it being important to check on a race engine or for FI ,but on an NA street car - not so much . Especially seeing as it is such a huge effort to get the things out (for a novice) . He is more likely to create extra problems through doing it than make any kind of improvement . |
I had mine reconditioned by RC out here in socal. 3 injectors were flowing poorly and 1 was dripping fuel...
I got like 45 whp after doing it. Crazy stuff man... |
Kidding about the hp.
But it was a no brainier to get them cleaned becuase I had the engine out. I wouldn't advise someone doing this as an "oh why not", with the after thought of "oh crap now what"... |
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
(Post 3708063)
I'd agree with that part. Otherwise you would be saying to all and sundry - yes you must remove your injectors at 100000 and get them cleaned or you will zomg blow your engine ;) |
Originally Posted by shadycrew31
(Post 3708084)
Kidding about the hp.
But it was a no brainier to get them cleaned becuase I had the engine out. I wouldn't advise someone doing this as an "oh why not", with the after thought of "oh crap now what"... agreed |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 3708097)
Then by inference you also agree with the other part
Otherwise you would be saying to all and sundry - yes you must remove your injectors at 100000 and get them cleaned or you will zomg blow your engine ;) |
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
(Post 3708124)
Sure. And by the same logic it's also fine to drive on original tires that are bald and hard 7 years and 100k miles later, because you have the DSC and ABS, and they will automatically adjust for the tires' lack of grip. Amirite?
Just guessing here but I would think they are supposed to last unmolested for the life of the engine . |
Originally Posted by Brettus
(Post 3708156)
well for tyres you are . Seriously - would you recommend people pull their injectors just to check them at 100,000 ? What does it say in the maintenance manual re injectors ?
Just guessing here but I would think they are supposed to last unmolested for the life of the engine . |
For what its worth,
I test warranty return parts as part of my job (automotive engineer). We receive back packs of injectors for warranty claims. I always flow, leak, and function test them. 90% of the warranty injectors I see have no problem.....AND FLOW WITHIN 1% OF NOMINAL. Same thing with durability tests I run with a simulated 100k on them. We do see lots of fuel borne contamination though collecting on the form plates, sometimes that blocks up the for plate holes. Any type of blockage no matter how bad can throw an injector off a lot. My advice: Why mess with them if there isn't a problem? |
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
(Post 3708124)
Sure. And by the same logic it's also fine to drive on original tires that are bald and hard 7 years and 100k miles later, because you have the DSC and ABS, and they will automatically adjust for the tires' lack of grip. Amirite?
Ken |
Originally Posted by ken-x8
(Post 3708369)
with tires you still have the rims as a backup. With injectors, all you have is the hose. Do you really want to count on getting hosed?
Ken Some of the posts in this thread make about as much sense as a buy 1 for the price of 3 get 1 free sale. Conveying thoughts adequately so that others can understand seems to be an exercise in futility for some here. |
I think you 2 are both arguing the same point but are arguing against each other due to sarcasm.
That's my first stab at it. OP heres what it comes down to. if you have the mindset of a mechanic and can be without a car for a few days then your good. If legos gave you issues as a kid and you cant figure out how to change your air filter than I wouldn't bother. |
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