When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yah, I cleaned my crossmember and gave it a double-coat of POR15 before my engine went back in but I only had a few spots around the fastener holes. This poor thing has it everywhere...
Red line envy, did this car get driven through a plant that manufactures chlorine and peroxide during a major leak? Actually, I suspect the crossmember damage was due to a battery that leaked.
Yah, I cleaned my crossmember and gave it a double-coat of POR15 before my engine went back in but I only had a few spots around the fastener holes. This poor thing has it everywhere...
Red line envy, did this car get driven through a plant that manufactures chlorine and peroxide during a major leak? Actually, I suspect the crossmember damage was due to a battery that leaked.
Looks like the battery caused that; some of the lines are corroded pretty bad to, maybe a NE car? Overall it still looks good -- sorting the crossmember and that rear coolant pipe would make it look a lot fresher.
I imagine injected oil floats around apex seals areas for awhile like piston rings, and shouldn't ever go dry. I premix 1/2 oz per gallon with injectors so gotta be getting oil.
I know it’s not the cleanest but I want it to run before I get to deep. Anyway I got it back together today but when I tried to start it the starter didn’t do anything. It was such a build of anticipation just to turn the key and not hear anything lol. Any suggestions? Tomorrow I’m checking the small wire on the starter because there is power getting down there it’s just not switching on when I turn the key. Also checking fuses and grounds. An yes I’m gonna clean that up. I did mean to but got wrapped up in excitement of getting her back.
I imagine injected oil floats around apex seals areas for awhile like piston rings, and shouldn't ever go dry. I premix 1/2 oz per gallon with injectors so gotta be getting oil.
Piston rings travel the stroke distance, measured in inches. Apex seals travel the circumference of the housing, measured in feet. I wouldn't bet on oil sticking around for long.
I have thought a lot about this issue recently, and I think a better solution than what is "conventional wisdom" is needed with regard to housing and apex seal lubrication.
I think Loki has a great point. The apex seals are expected to have single point lubrication when travelling long distances within the housing. Also, I think there is "lubrication lag" when asking for more power suddenly, as the OMP does not provide continuous flow, it is metered out to each nozzle in sequence, in a "pulse" style of delivery.
Compare that to the top ring of a piston engine: it gets its oil supply with each stroke, and it adapts instantly to greater rpm.
I wonder if there is any other engine that asks so much of its "top end" oil film?
I was concerned about this too. I recently went to order a new fender liner for my 06 at a Mazda dealership and while I was there decided to pick up an oil filter. He asked "What kind of oil do you put in it?" I said synthetic and he said "NO!" and suggested I use the standard 5w20
I have a Sohn adapter kit and the owner who previously had it also used full synthetic and changed it every 2500 - 3000 miles. I've done research way before purchasing the car and have heard to either use synthetic or premix.
Is using full synthetic oil along with the Sohn adapter preferred?
Is using full synthetic oil along with the Sohn adapter preferred?
You'll find people who will advocate for any combination of conventional/blend/synthetic, Sohn/not, and premix/not. But yes, synthetic + Sohn is one popular combo.
04-05-2018, 08:27 PM
Looks like the battery caused that; some of the lines are corroded pretty bad to, maybe a NE car? Overall it still looks good -- sorting the crossmember and that rear coolant pipe would make it look a lot fresher.
