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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 03:41 PM
  #1  
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Performance question.

Im not sure what this is called or I would search and avoid the repost police.

As I understand, above 4k rpm's more intake valves open which suck in more gas, which makes the car accelerate faster. Is there a way to have those open sooner for beter acceleration? A mod perhapse?


Thanks.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 03:46 PM
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I could be wrong, but I believe that is what "porting" is for. It's not very cost effective unless you need an engine rebuild already.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 03:51 PM
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Its not electronic?
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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Search "VFAD"
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:13 PM
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Thanks. So as I understand, the VFAD is a mechanical part and not electronic, and it helps with midrange RPM horsepower. So what that means what I was thinking isnt possible (suppling more fuel during lower RPM's).

Ok So then what should I be looking at then to do this? FI kit? Reason i was asking is because a VW beatle beat me up for the first 2 seconds or so. I dont think it was a turbo even. (although as soon as 4krpms hit, he was gone.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:22 PM
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dude theres NO INTAKE VALVES...........NO VALVES NO CAMS!!!!!!!!! if u wanted to beat the guy in the VW beatle try launchin at more then 2k rpms.........try at like 5k rpms...........n if u got beat by a beetle trade ur car in for a commuter, becuz it sounds like u dont know how to drive..........
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:32 PM
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don't you know,off the line, the VW beetle has always been the fasted car the first 10 ft even in the 1960s. It kinda hops like a spider.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:32 PM
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Angry

Originally Posted by dastallion951
dude theres NO INTAKE VALVES...........NO VALVES NO CAMS!!!!!!!!! if u wanted to beat the guy in the VW beatle try launchin at more then 2k rpms.........try at like 5k rpms...........n if u got beat by a beetle trade ur car in for a commuter, becuz it sounds like u dont know how to drive..........

this was totally uncalled for...
the dude made a mistake or didn't know any better but, he's just trying to understand his 8 a bit better... maybe it's his first rotary like many others on here...
so, next time you feel like being an ***... DON'T!
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:38 PM
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The 8 doesn't pick up torque early so that's probably why he got a headstart. But if you what dastallion said and launch the car at about 4-5 thousand RPM, i'm sure you'll take him.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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Man this thing sucks gas like no other if you drive it hard. I'm half a tank through and only 95 miles on the trip odo. Jeebus!

If you do open those ports up sooner you're gonna get some poor *** fuel ecnonomy.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 04:48 PM
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As if the fuel economy for the 8 wasn't bad enough lol.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 05:04 PM
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I know it doesnt have any valves, which was the start of the post. What I read is that "something" opens at higher RPM's to allow for more fuel intake. What opens and how do I make it open sooner? LOL.

As for starting at higher RPM's... this is where the yelling poster was right. I dont know. Since I drive a 6 speed shifting automatic, Is it ok to shift into first at 3k rpm? Or do i hold down gas+break then release break (or emergency break w/e).

LOL sorry previous car was a focus and a 86 volvo.

Thanks for the replies.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 07:07 PM
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The rotary engine only has 3 moving parts, the eccentric shaft and the 2 rotors. Thats it, nothing else. Go here for a better explanation How rotary engines work
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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Shift into first at 3k RPM? 3k RPM in what gear? Or do you mean from a start?

Also I don't think you want to hold down the break whilst gassing the car, even if its the e-brake. That's gonna wear stuff down and you're the owner of a brand new Shinka so just take it easy. Why didn't you just get a 6-speed if you wanted to do all this.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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Not realy wanting to do it, but it was suggested to do this a few posts up. I know the basics on the engine too but thanks for the link. Fuel has to get into the cavity some how, either by electronic controlled fuel line, injector, or low pressure. But something else controls how much fuel goes in and thats what im talking about.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 07:44 PM
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Just drive the car and don't worry about beating other cars in a race. All it will do is get you TICKETS and possibly into an ACCIDENT. Those two things make me drive like a human being. Most of the time. And an AT will not beat anything off the line.
Get them from a roll. Try first gear about 4500 RPM and floor it and see what happens to that bug.
Just want everyone to know I do not recommend street racing. It is AGAINST THE LAW.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 07:57 PM
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There are kinda 2 threads here.......

First, it is generally assumed that the second set of fuel injectors kick in around 38k rpms, although I have read here that that number has increased with current flashes (who knows). Thus, (and as a very, very general rule), if you want to increase gas milage, imagine and egg between your foot and the petal and shift low, below 38k.

Second, the car (by nature of its design) has next to 0 torgue at low RPMs. So if you want to get on it from a stop, you gotta get the RPMs up before releasing the clutch (but don't be stupid about it). Likewise, if you're enjoying some twisties and need the throttle for steering control, keep the RPM's up. And I don't mean, leaving the car at redline. But you will need to keep it above, oh say, 6k to have any throttle response.

You will burn a boat load more gas (this car sucks in a gallon or two if you JUST think about juicing it) . It's a choice you have to make. Dropping the clutch at 4-5k RPM's aint gonna hurt the car but will make it go faster sooner........
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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^^^Street racing is dumb when you put other innocents at risk. But on an empty stretch of road at night, I don't see the harm in two consenting adults engaging in a bit of dangerous fun (of the highspeed vehicular kind).
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 08:45 PM
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Not really good for an auto but put it in N, put the revs to 5k and push it into D. Then again a clutch drop on a manual isn't good either but occasionally you do it.
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 10:51 PM
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You don't want to screw with the timing of the port opening, they are calibrated to open based RPMs and maybe load. I don't think you would be able to adjust them better then Mazda did. The only time this would not hold true is under forced induction.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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mea culpa,..........

My advice was meant for MT. ..........I have nothing to offer for AT...........other than to say, you're stuck with it....Press it to the floor, wait 10 seconds while you eat some fast food, talk on the cell phone for awhile and it will eventually kick in to the next gear; follow advice above again........etc...

sorry, don't mean to be a hard ***. I realize that folks have their reasons for buying an AT. But realize that you're getting exactly that, an AT.........My mother/sister/girlfriend loves their AT...............(but forget about throttle modulating, inducing oversteer, really enjoying the perfect balance, etc, etc. etc.........)

Oops, my apologies again before I get flamed..........
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