not revving past 5.5k rpm??
 

hi guys, im from the UK so bare with me, but hope you guys may be able to help

ive been without my 192 rx8 for about a month now, as had some warranty issues. but it went up to the seat dealership where we bought it from for them to check.

symptoms were EML on, and also car not revving past around 5.5k rpm

diagnosed the problem to be the Catalytic convertor.
that was replaced, and a new o2 sensor to disengage the EML.

now we have no EML, but car still feels like it hits a brick wall at 5.5k.

seat have taken the exhaust off to check if there was any blocks due to the cat disintegrating, but found nothing.

theyre stuck now and havent a clue, so the car has now been sent to mazda dealership in chesterfield.

any of you guys have any suggestions?

anyone had this happen to them?

Forgot the basics: what year model, how many miles, style of driving, and maintenance. Do you redline your car frequently? The car does not rev over 5.5 k because it does not have the air it needs. Perhaps carbon build up on the secondary air shutter. Further, when you say EML you mean CEL (ckeck engine light), right? Just go to a mechanic (here in the US we can have the CEL codes read for free in places like autozone, not sure if you have anything similar in England) and tell you to give you the code. Once you do this we will be able to figure it out for sure.

One more thing. You should begin a thread in the Trouble shooting area (there is one for Series I rx-8s and another for Series II) and not on the General Discussion. You will get much more input in your problem.

sorry, wasnt sure where i should have opened the thread.

its a 2004 rx8 192. full service history, with 43,000 miles (not KM)

the car is my wifes, so not redlined often. but i use it at weekends so try to redline at times.

just to confirm, there is not engine management light anymore. this disappeared when the dealership replaced the catalytic convertor and the o2 sensor

likely to be the coils??

Have you ever changed coils, plugs, and wires? They do not last more than 30000 miles. If you have a problem with coils, plugs, wires you should get misfire as well. If you have misfire the CEL comes on (I think it pops up and goes). If you have not changed yet coils, plugs, and wires I would suggest you do it. This can never hurt the car and it can solve lots of issues. While you are doing this you can ask the dealership to check if your secondary air shutter operates like it should be. Rotaries build up carbon easily and this is why most people in here suggest you redline the car once (after it is warmed up) every time you drive it. One more thing that crossed my mind is the fuel pump. I have seen people having similar symptoms due to fuel pump getting overheated or clogged.

If you ask me to rank the possible problems I would go 1) coils, plugs, wires, 2) secondary air shutter and then anything else.

Why did you change the cat? Was the engine flooded or just happened? If the engine was flooded (this sends unburn fuel to the cat and creates cat failure) you should definitely change your coils, plugs, and wires.

Before you do anything please open a thread on Trouble Shooting for Series I cars. You will get more info there from all the rotary scientists. I feel though pretty positive about the stuff I told you.

dead MAF?

Dead MAF or maybe just needs cleaning. Search in the forum "Cleaning MAF" and you will see what you can do. It is very simple and will not take much time. All you need is a screw driver and a MAF cleaner.
I believe though that if he has not changed coils, plugs, and wires yet he needs to do it.

Coils

The fact that it "hits a brick wall at 5500rpm" makes it sound like the coolant temperature sensor has failed, and the ECU doesn't realize when the engine has warmed up. 5500rpm is the redline when the engine is cold.

Sorry guys i am new
Coils, plugs, and wires!
What is the wires you mean?

Wires = Spark plug wires.

It's a good bet with your mileage that you need coils and plugs. Most people will change out the wires at the same time. There is a way to actually test the coils and I'll link that here in a second, but the reality is.........if you have changed the CAT and the O2 sensor already, then it's likely to be the coils and plugs in my opinion. It could also be the MAF and of course carbon build up in the engine, but your going to have to take this a step at time. If you have no CEL(EML) then I would start with the coils, but maybe others will chime in that have more experience than I.



See these two links. First is for coil inspection, second is for carbon build up.

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...16-07-1793.pdf

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-08-1924g.pdf

It could also be a stuck SSV, but let's try the above first!

really apprciate these comments guys.
I am waiting to hear on monday from the dealership. I will mention these cooments to them and see what they say.

im hoping, as its gone to mazda dealership, they'll know exactly whats wrong with it

John let us know what happens. I am sure that one of the things mentioned here is the solution to your problem. I hope EU Mazda dealerships know more about rotaries than most American dealerships do. Here people have lots of problems dealing with the dealerships. This is why it is good to do some research on the forum before you go to the stealerships! Best luck

I have a 2004 rx8 as well I am rebuilding it
when I am driving I try to redline it but on 3rd is hard to rev past 5500 and on 4,5,6 it does not go past 5500
i have taken the car to a straight track to see how fast I can get it as it is but won’t go faster than 85,90 at most
when in neutral I can redline but with some difficulty not too much but you can tell that it forcing the engine to reach red line
Does light up a house looking light below oil temperature in red
idk if it is the coolant temperature sensor that is faulty since it come and goes but stay for a while