![]() |
Originally Posted by benben01
(Post 4233305)
My 11' R3 has close to 700 miles on it. I just top it off with 1/3 qt of oil. Like you OP, the RX is my weekend car and probably sees < 100 miles/week. I have taken the extra precaution of ordering Idemitsu 10w30 full synthetic oil and premix. Yes, it was a bit expensive ($208 shipped for both cases from West to East Coast) but $208/yr is not bad for insurance and a piece of mind. I plan to do my first oil change @ the 1,000 mile. Also, I added some Militec-1 in the past week and right away, I can hear the engine running smoother (it was smooth before but even smoother now). I used Militec in all my cars and transmissions. I was skeptical about Militec in rotaries, but the owners of Miitec assured me that it was perfectly safe and that the rotor chambers will benefit from treatment and more resistant to carbon build up.
"Militec-1 must not be used in conjunction with polycarbonate products as in rotary engine" http://www.thermaltek.com.au/pdf/app...or_militec.pdf https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...95421185_n.jpg |
Originally Posted by benben01
(Post 4233305)
My 11' R3 has close to 700 miles on it. I just top it off with 1/3 qt of oil. Like you OP, the RX is my weekend car and probably sees < 100 miles/week. I have taken the extra precaution of ordering Idemitsu 10w30 full synthetic oil and premix. Yes, it was a bit expensive ($208 shipped for both cases from West to East Coast) but $208/yr is not bad for insurance and a piece of mind. I plan to do my first oil change @ the 1,000 mile. Also, I added some Militec-1 in the past week and right away, I can hear the engine running smoother (it was smooth before but even smoother now). I used Militec in all my cars and transmissions. I was skeptical about Militec in rotaries, but the owners of Miitec assured me that it was perfectly safe and that the rotor chambers will benefit from treatment and more resistant to carbon build up.
|
Originally Posted by MEJazz
(Post 4234079)
Yeah i considered doing all these but then came across a thread here where someone took apart their engine to see how use of these additional lubrication item actually affects/help the engine. In the end, he concluded that we don't have to do any of these. You would be fine using what Mazda recommend: 5w20 and just topping off and changing oil at proper time. The S2 does not need premix etc. unless you are really pushing it hard (track) due to third oil injector. I am just going with Mazda recommendation.
|
Thanks for the posting the link to the document Shady. I emailed both the distributor for clarification and Militec to weigh in on the findings. I will post their responses when they reply. Also, there was a long time Mazda RX owner on Bob is the Oil Guy forum who used both Mobil-1 and Militec on his FC. I PM'ed him as well for his feedback. Just waiting on his response. As for the 5w-20 dino oil in our rotaries, logic dictates that its not something you want in a high revving motor. Even with frequent oil changes, I have my doubts as to how well it can withstand the excessive heat generated by rotary engines.
|
Originally Posted by benben01
(Post 4234217)
Thanks for the posting the link to the document Shady. I emailed both the distributor for clarification and Militec to weigh in on the findings. I will post their responses when they reply. Also, there was a long time Mazda RX owner on Bob is the Oil Guy forum who used both Mobil-1 and Militec on his FC. I PM'ed him as well for his feedback. Just waiting on his response. As for the 5w-20 dino oil in our rotaries, logic dictates that its not something you want in a high revving motor. Even with frequent oil changes, I have my doubts as to how well it can withstand the excessive heat generated by rotary engines.
|
Originally Posted by shadycrew31
(Post 4234228)
It doesn't hold up well at all. I just tore open an engine down in SA with significant bearing wear. we found no other cause than using 5w/20. Also Old Dragger had this same finding several years ago.
|
Also i tried Castrol's online tool to find the oil best suited for my car (http://www.castrol.com/castrol/Lubes...ategoryId=3240) and guess what it came back with; 5w20! Why in the world Castrol would care about Mazda meeting EPA requirements etc.
|
^^ You are over thinking this my friend. Either change the oil yourself or bring your own oil to the stealership for service. Castrol or another oil manufacture simply links their recommendation to that of the manufacturers for the sake of liability, legalities, and etc...
|
Originally Posted by shadycrew31
(Post 4233335)
I just looked at the msds for miltec-1, and did some research this line came up on the bottom of their ad sheet
"Militec-1 must not be used in conjunction with polycarbonate products as in rotary engine" http://www.thermaltek.com.au/pdf/app...or_militec.pdf https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...95421185_n.jpg Hi Ben, It is not the case that Militec-1 can not be used in a rotary engine although in australia with feedback from some customers we seem to have rotaries with parts like seals for example in the engine that are polycarbonate, in saying polycarbonate this is simply a type of plastic, that when comes into contact with Militec-1 after a "long" period of time the plastic becomes fragile and crumbles like honeycomb. We encourage anyone with high performance engines and or high speed machinary that they first check for plastic parts and what role these parts play, in saying this here at Thermaltek we have been using miltec-1 in all types of machines and engines that have different types of plastic, being dipsticks, oil filler caps and so on, some react to this premium product and most do not, after all Militec-1 is a metal conditioner and being aware of this should be paramount. We personally have not found any major problems with plastics thou it "can" be a problem and letting the public know this is a choice that we decided to make here at Thermaltek. The notice is in place to inform that Militec-1 "can" effect plastics as we are foremost in supplying customers with a product coupled with knowing as much about it as possible. We hope this reply has been informative regarding your questions and thank you for taking the time to contact us Ben. Kind Regards Sales Team Thermaltek Australia Sales@thermaltek.com.au www.thermaltek.com.au |
Originally Posted by benben01
(Post 4234690)
^^ You are over thinking this my friend. Either change the oil yourself or bring your own oil to the stealership for service. Castrol or another oil manufacture simply links their recommendation to that of the manufacturers for the sake of liability, legalities, and etc...
either let the dealer do their thing with 5w20, or do it yourself with 5w30, just make sure you keep receipts of you purchasing 5w20, you dont have to use it, just make sure you have 2 receipts(one with some 5w20 that you wont use, and one with the 5w30 you are actually using, basically make 2 purchases) Theres no way to check what weight oil you are using so all you have to do is show receipts showing you have been buying 5w20 and no one can argue otherwise. after i run out of my 5w20 im switching to 5w30. |
Originally Posted by EricB
(Post 4235859)
Theres no way to check what weight oil you are using so all you have to do is show receipts showing you have been buying 5w20 and no one can argue otherwise.
after i run out of my 5w20 im switching to 5w30. All someone has to do is send a sample of the oil they pull out of your engine to an oil analysis lab, like Blackstone Industries, and ask them to check the viscosity of the oil, and they can tell you what the oil tests as. if you have a 5W40 in your engine, and you claim its only 5W-20, with ~1000 miles on it, and you've been babying your car those miles, the viscosity will tell them you've got something much thicker in there. BC. |
use 10w/30... or switch to synthetic.
|
Originally Posted by Bladecutter
(Post 4236090)
Well, that's not true.
All someone has to do is send a sample of the oil they pull out of your engine to an oil analysis lab, like Blackstone Industries, and ask them to check the viscosity of the oil, and they can tell you what the oil tests as. if you have a 5W40 in your engine, and you claim its only 5W-20, with ~1000 miles on it, and you've been babying your car those miles, the viscosity will tell them you've got something much thicker in there. BC. Not to mention the ZDDP will probably spike up as the branded viscosity increases nullifying the ILSAC specification. Then a super mean dealer will get you for your CAT. But, I doubt they'd get this aggressive unless Mazda gets super tired of replacing engines. |
Originally Posted by Bladecutter
(Post 4236090)
Well, that's not true.
All someone has to do is send a sample of the oil they pull out of your engine to an oil analysis lab, like Blackstone Industries, and ask them to check the viscosity of the oil, and they can tell you what the oil tests as. if you have a 5W40 in your engine, and you claim its only 5W-20, with ~1000 miles on it, and you've been babying your car those miles, the viscosity will tell them you've got something much thicker in there. BC. Not like it should matter to S2 owners, theyre engines go bad after the warranty period anyway. |
Originally Posted by EricB
(Post 4236754)
Ive never heard of mazda doing this to potentially reject a new engine, can you link me a thread? From what i gathered, this is how you get away with adding a different oil in your car other than 5w20.
Not like it should matter to S2 owners, their engines go bad after the warranty period anyway. BC. |
Theres been a few already that have failed, its a rotary it was designed to fail.
|
so i guess someone has been hanging around the rx7club forums.
heres your precious link: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?=2304590 how many cylinders does a rotary engine have again?? i heard they last till like 200k miles, im thinking of swapping one in my prius, i need massive power that is reliable. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:03 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands