LED's and the RX8
I've read over a lot of the posts here about LED's, but I'm still unsure of what to use. First I'm going to get LED's for all the exterior lights in the future.
Brake Lights http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...FV/32481/sret/ Turn Signals http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...FV/32481/sret/ Reverse Lights http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...FV/32481/sret/ Front Parking Lights http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...FV/32481/sret/ Front Side Markers http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...FV/32481/sret/ License Plate http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...FV/32481/sret/ Turn Signal Load Resistors http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...FV/32481/sret/ These are what I want to get, but I also need to get load resistors for the other LED's also to protect them from voltage spikes, should I use them on the brake lights/reverse lights? I know the parking lights and side markers, these are what I was looking to use http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...FV/32481/sret/ Will these work, and will they work for the 2watt high power LED's (allow them to work at full light capacity?). I emailed v-leds but they were not much help... -----Original Message----- From: ely_ja@yahoo.com [mailto:ely_ja@yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 9:34 PM To: sales@v-leds.com Subject: Product Question The submitted form fields are: cmd: emailform selSubject: General Product Question Message: LED BULB OUT WARNING FIX 25 OHM LOAD RESISTOR KIT Will this work for protecting the LED bulbs from voltage spikes? Will they work for high power output LED's without dimming them? Should I use them on the brake light LED's? I'm replacing all bulb's in my Mazda RX8 that are filament bulbs to LED's and if I don't protect them they will burn out pretty quick from what others are saying. Thanks for help =) ------------------------------------------- I don't think it is necessary to install resistors for voltage spikes, I don't think you will have an issue with our bulbs. Others may not be designed as well. We have had many RX8 owners install our products with no issues. The only time you should install a load resistor is to create load on the circuit for the blinkers to work at a normal rate in the case you cannot install an electronic flasher. The load resistors have no effect on the output of the LEDs. Thank you, Jake York Velocity Distributing Inc. |
what the representative said about load resistors on the blinkers was completely true. As long as the other LEDs you are planning on installing are the same bulb code, you should not have a problem with brightness or dimming. But, you should not need to install load resistors on anything except for the turn signals.
As far as your selections for the parking and side markers, looks completely fine. I have been using VLEDs for a while and they continue to sell quality products. The SMTs are awesome...hope this answers some or part of your question. |
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Personally, I don't use LEDs for my brake or signal lights because the 7440/3's just aren't as bright as an incandescent bulb. If you are going to use LEDs for brake and signal, I recomend getting the brightest they have. You've got the right one for the brake/tail lights (don't forget you'll need an extra for the 3rd brake light. I would use the same style bulb for the signal lights and reverse:
Signal http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481 Reverse http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481 or http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481 (that second link for the reverse light uses .5 watt LEDs and may be as bright as an incandescent. Too bad they don't have the .5 watt LEDs in amber and red. For the license plate light, you only need a SMT that fires down, that bulb you've chosen will be wasting a lot of light to the side. I'd recommend the same bulb you have for the parking light, or this if you don't want to go quite so bright: http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481 You will need the load resistors for the signal lights. I use resistors on all my LEDs to protect them. Not the load resistors that V-LED sells, but just a small 1 watt, 10 ohm resistor from Radio Shack soldered in myself (works fine with the 2 watt parking light bulbs). I had several V-LED bulbs burn out before I started running resistors, not one since. Oh, and don't forget fog lights! http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481 http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...s/ledfog02.jpg |
Yeah I have read through that post and several others, but I'm still unsure of what to use resistor wise and if I need them on the taillights also.
This is a Quote by Aipex8 -------------------------------- I've heard nothing but good things about Apexcone, I guess a lot of BMW guys use them too. Your LEDs are most likely burning out because of voltage spikes, not heat. HID bulbs burn cooler than halogen and are pretty far from either the parking or corner lights. Adding a resistor will probably solve your problem. I know next to nothing about electronics, so I don't know if what I've done is technically correct, but it seems to have worked since I haven't had an LED burn out since implementing it. First, go to: http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm Scroll down until you see "LED protector". That is what I started out with. If you look at the installation diagram, it shows you how to install the "protector" on the ground wire. This has changed on their site, it used to instruct you to install it on the possitive wire (which I did). At the time I was running pretty wimpy LEDs and it worked fine. The problem was when I upgraded to higher powered LEDs they wouldn't light up all the way... too much resistance. Maybe this is why they switched their instructions, but it seems to me you'd want the resistor on the possitive wire to protect against spikes, but I could be totally off here, like I said I know nothing about electronics. Anyway, I fixed the problem by making my own "protector". Autolumination's is just a 1 watt, 100 ohm resistor soldered to wire on either side with a little shrink tubing and some wire taps. I basically just made my own with 1 watt, 10 ohm resistors instead. I've done this for parking, corner and my rear plate light . I'm still running the resistor on the positive wire. Still haven't had a burn out. Any electronic gurus here care to explain which makes more sense... resistor on the positive or ground wire? EDIT: Was just talking with Rotary Rasp via PM and he said that it makes no difference which wire the resistor is on, it works exactly the same. He also said that a resistor will offer very little protection against a voltage spike. They have solved the burn out problem for me, so maybe it was just very small fluctuations in voltage that were causing the burn outs. Small enough that the resistor actually did help. I don't know. They are cheap so it's worth a try if you are having burn out issues. -------------------------------- He is using 10ohm 1 watt resistors, but will they work for the Front parking lights im using which are 2 watt, I would assume I would need a 2 watt resistor, I can't remember my small electronics stuff, so I may just need to buy a book on this stuff. Also from what rotory rasp said they offer no protection really, so i'm a bit confused if I really need these or not. |
Originally Posted by Saylord
(Post 2750310)
Yeah I have read through that post and several others, but I'm still unsure of what to use resistor wise and if I need them on the taillights also.
This is a Quote by Aipex8 -------------------------------- I've heard nothing but good things about Apexcone, I guess a lot of BMW guys use them too. Your LEDs are most likely burning out because of voltage spikes, not heat. HID bulbs burn cooler than halogen and are pretty far from either the parking or corner lights. Adding a resistor will probably solve your problem. I know next to nothing about electronics, so I don't know if what I've done is technically correct, but it seems to have worked since I haven't had an LED burn out since implementing it. First, go to: http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm Scroll down until you see "LED protector". That is what I started out with. If you look at the installation diagram, it shows you how to install the "protector" on the ground wire. This has changed on their site, it used to instruct you to install it on the possitive wire (which I did). At the time I was running pretty wimpy LEDs and it worked fine. The problem was when I upgraded to higher powered LEDs they wouldn't light up all the way... too much resistance. Maybe this is why they switched their instructions, but it seems to me you'd want the resistor on the possitive wire to protect against spikes, but I could be totally off here, like I said I know nothing about electronics. Anyway, I fixed the problem by making my own "protector". Autolumination's is just a 1 watt, 100 ohm resistor soldered to wire on either side with a little shrink tubing and some wire taps. I basically just made my own with 1 watt, 10 ohm resistors instead. I've done this for parking, corner and my rear plate light . I'm still running the resistor on the positive wire. Still haven't had a burn out. Any electronic gurus here care to explain which makes more sense... resistor on the positive or ground wire? EDIT: Was just talking with Rotary Rasp via PM and he said that it makes no difference which wire the resistor is on, it works exactly the same. He also said that a resistor will offer very little protection against a voltage spike. They have solved the burn out problem for me, so maybe it was just very small fluctuations in voltage that were causing the burn outs. Small enough that the resistor actually did help. I don't know. They are cheap so it's worth a try if you are having burn out issues. -------------------------------- He is using 10ohm 1 watt resistors, but will they work for the Front parking lights im using which are 2 watt, I would assume I would need a 2 watt resistor, I can't remember my small electronics stuff, so I may just need to buy a book on this stuff. Also from what rotory rasp said they offer no protection really, so i'm a bit confused if I really need these or not. |
Oh, I would use them on the tail lights also. The nicer LEDs are too expensive to take the chance for me.
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Thanks Aipex8. I was looking at the turn signal and reverse LED bulbs that I chose because of price, since they are not on constantly I did not think their would be much problem, but if the brake light LED I picked is not as bright as the filament then the cheaper ones are gonna be really Dim. I may just have to shell out the extra cash for those and just go with the white/amber combo up front for the turn signal with the added white as a bonus.
Ill go to radio shack and pick up the resistors/wire, any suggestions on what to use as a connector to tap the lines that will last? I may just solder but I am no professional at it. Also, do you use resistor protection for your interior LED"s also? |
Our car doesn't use the front turn signals as parking lights also, so the dual color bulbs will do nothing, only the amber LEDs will light. Just go with the full amber LEDs for front as well.
As for the resistors, you'll probably need to do a little soldering. If you own an iron then it shouldn't be a big deal. To tell you the truth, these were the first things I ever soldered so a noob can handle it. Take the resistor: http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/produ...160203w345.jpg Snip both ends so they are about 1/4". Take two pieces of wire about 3" and solder a piece to either end of the resistor. Put a piece of shrink wrap around it. Now you've got something that looks like the following, except without the blue wire taps. http://superlumination.com/images/au...otector_wm.jpg Now cut the power wire running to the bulb. You can use wire taps if you like, but I use insulated blade connectors. Make sure that you use a male and a female on each resistor, that way if you ever want to go back to an incandescent bulb you can easily remove the resistor and just reconnect the two ends of the original wire. http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/produ...266750w345.jpg |
Great info for those looking to get LEDs. I've been thinking about it but was way to lazy to figure out all the bulb codes.
I'm bookmarking this thread |
Yeah I also like the way they look.
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These are the LED bulbs I use:
Tail/brake lights: http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481 These are bright enough for this application. They fill the reflector very well. Turn signals: http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481 These are also bright, but a bit less than filament bulbs. Still, they work just fine even in daylight - certainly much better than any other amber LED bulb I've seen before. Reverse lights: http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/P...id/0/SFV/32481 As for the third brake light, I still have the original filament bulb. I'll probably swap it for a LED bulb, or may be looking at that new LED brake light that is being talked about here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-exterior-appearance-body-kits-27/new-led-brake-light-pictures-included-161767/#post2751356 Two things to consider if you're going to use a LED bulb as the third brake light: - First, be careful with the bulb size and the direction of the LEDs as the space may not accomodate taller bulbs and also, it is more important to have straight firing LEDs than side firing ones since the reflector / housing is set up differently than in case of the tail lights. - Second: you will have to use a load resistor with it because if you swap all the brake lights to LEDs, you'll have the ABS light illuminated. Keeping the filament bulb in the third brake light prevents that. |
Do the LED's light up instantly like the Cadillacs and BMW's? Or is it just a different looking type of light..?
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So sounds like those LED brake lights are as bright as the stock filaments?
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Ok, for the High beams and fog lights I was looking at the xenon plasma 5800k superwhites. They are at http://autolumination.com/headlights.htm and only about a 1/4 way down the page at 13.99 a pair. Do you think those will match the LED's close enough, or should the 8500k's be better?
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Originally Posted by The Drunk IT Guy
(Post 2754094)
Do the LED's light up instantly like the Cadillacs and BMW's?
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Originally Posted by CarAndDriver
(Post 2754820)
So sounds like those LED brake lights are as bright as the stock filaments?
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Originally Posted by Saylord
(Post 2758144)
Ok, for the High beams and fog lights I was looking at the xenon plasma 5800k superwhites. They are at http://autolumination.com/headlights.htm and only about a 1/4 way down the page at 13.99 a pair. Do you think those will match the LED's close enough, or should the 8500k's be better?
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This was the company I used for a long time for my LED needs. They were very inexpensive and had a huge selection. http://www.lsdiodes.com/shop/index.p...41a4328607546d , unfortunately they have gone out of business though.... You can still call them and see what they have left in stock.
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Originally Posted by Tamas
(Post 2758425)
Almost... the filaments are a little brighter, but these are really bright enough. Not too much difference.
Autoilumnation. Was not impressed. |
I will try them
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Almost sticky worthy for the Exterior mods section.
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Originally Posted by Tamas
(Post 2751404)
- Second: you will have to use a load resistor with it because if you swap all the brake lights to LEDs, you'll have the ABS light illuminated. Keeping the filament bulb in the third brake light prevents that.
crazy how this would affect the abs light :eyetwitch |
Thought I'd chime in quickly... here's a quick back and forth I had about this:
Originally Posted by Rotary Rasp
Originally Posted by TheWulf
Hey man -- quick question for you on LED lights + resistors:
1 - What's the recommended resistance for turn signals? 10 ohms? And that's one per light, not per side, right? 2 - Resistors required for brake lights? Same thing, 10 ohms? I intend to swap out all 3, not just 2. Thanks man. - Marc -Rodger |
^^Not sure if this was in response to my question, but if it is, it doesn't quite answer it. They are referring to the turn signals.
I want to know how many ohm resistor you need for the third brake light if you've swapped all brake lights for LEDs. Maybe a 25 ohm? |
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