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How long should you wait for all the "excess" fuel to be burned when you cold start?
How long should you have to wait for all the excess fuel to be burned when it's idling and when driving.
Ex. I want to drive it out of the garage and wash it, how long should I wait to shut it off? And I looked everywhere for this info and couldn't find anything, so don't blame me if this has been asked! |
Drive it around the block twice, and you will be fine.
That's what I always do. BC. |
BC is right just roll it for 5-10 mins.
of course staying under 4000 rpms till up to operating temp. this is why having real working gauges is always a good idea/investment. |
Get your water temp up to 160F... that's a little over 1/3 of the way across your water temp gauge. To be extra safe get your water temp up to 180F (normal operating temperature) which is a little under 1/2 way across your water temp gauge.
Expect your oil to still not be at operating temperature. It takes another 5 or so minutes for your oil temperature to climb up to nearly match your water temp. |
Originally Posted by Porusski
(Post 4428541)
...And I looked everywhere for this info and couldn't find anything, so don't blame me if this has been asked!
Yes - I blame you for not having really looked. Ken |
Originally Posted by ken-x8
(Post 4428566)
Did you look in the Quick Tips booklet that came with your car? Or which you can download as a pdf from Mazda's web site if you lost the printed copy?
Yes - I blame you for not having really looked. Ken http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/pdf/...MazdaRX8QT.pdf Page 4/5 |
For the years I have owned my 8. I can't count how many times I have cold started it and shut it down within 3 minutes without any failure to start after... Never once has my 8 flooded on me. Go figure.
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Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
(Post 4428600)
For the years I have owned my 8. I can't count how many times I have cold started it and shut it down within 3 minutes without any failure to start after... Never once has my 8 flooded on me. Go figure.
ive stalled my car before by accident at around 120* and it started back up fine. |
Originally Posted by SayNoToPistons
(Post 4428600)
For the years I have owned my 8. I can't count how many times I have cold started it and shut it down within 3 minutes without any failure to start after... Never once has my 8 flooded on me. Go figure.
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from what i hear, the year of the 8 has a little to do with it. my 07, in and out of the garage with no warming and never an issue. i heard 04 and 05 totally different story.
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wouldnt a catch can avoid this issue??
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To be more precise the "excess fuel" is actually burned along with the implied "normal fuel". The actual question you were going for is "how longuntil the ECU stops injecting extra fuel when cold". The answer to that will vary based on ambient temps, but the ECU stops injecting the extra fuel somewhere around 150-160F. I don't know the precise number, though I do know that running a 160F thermostat on other Mazda ECUs will keep triggering the cold condition maps, so it's probably not too far off for the 8.
Lvis, no, a catch can is to catch oil overflow into the intake. Has no direct connection to the fuel content in the engine. |
Originally Posted by RIWWP
(Post 4428771)
To be more precise the "excess fuel" is actually burned along with the implied "normal fuel". The actual question you were going for is "how longuntil the ECU stops injecting extra fuel when cold". The answer to that will vary based on ambient temps, but the ECU stops injecting the extra fuel somewhere around 150-160F. I don't know the precise number, though I do know that running a 160F thermostat on other Mazda ECUs will keep triggering the cold condition maps, so it's probably not too far off for the 8.
Lvis, no, a catch can is to catch oil overflow into the intake. Has no direct connection to the fuel content in the engine. |
With that guidance, I went looking, and found this in the highlights:
P0125 Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control • The PCM monitors the ECT after cold engine start. If the ECT does not reach the specification in a certain period, the PCM determines that the coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control is insufficient. P0126 Insufficient coolant temperature for stable operation • The PCM monitors the ECT after the engine start for a certain period. If the the ECT never exceeds 71 °C {160 °F} when the following conditions are met, the PCM determines that the coolant thermostat is stuck open. MONITORING CONDITIONS — Soak time: more than 6 hour — IAT: more than –10 °C {14 °F} — Vehicle speed: more than 10 km/h {6.2 mph} — LOAD: more than 21.9 % P0128 Coolant thermostat problem • The PCM calculates the radiator heat radiation ratio while the following conditions are met. If the calculated value exceeds the threshold, the PCM determines that the coolant thermostat is stuck open. MONITORING CONDITIONS — Soak time: more than 6 hour — IAT: more than –10 °C {14 °F} — ECT at engine start: less than 35 °C {95 °F} — Vehicle speed: more than 40 km/h {24.9 mph} Doing word searches on the document I couldn't find any other reference that might be useful to answer the exact question. |
Originally Posted by RIWWP
(Post 4428823)
With that guidance, I went looking, and found this in the highlights:
Which implies that it needs 160F / 71C for closed loop operation, and implies then that below that it's adding fuel. Doing word searches on the document I couldn't find any other reference that might be useful to answer the exact question. |
Originally Posted by Darkness8
(Post 4428760)
from what i hear, the year of the 8 has a little to do with it. my 07, in and out of the garage with no warming and never an issue. i heard 04 and 05 totally different story.
Make sure you have at least the MSP16 Flash Healthy Ignition System. With those two things flooding is near impossible. That's all there is to it. |
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