first track day. any tips?
11-04-2008, 09:11 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
first track day. any tips?
Hi,
I currently own a '04 '8 231hp 6 MT with 30kmiles, loving it as it has been quite reliable so far (beside service, only the coils needed to be changed). Now that I have been driven it for a year, I'm planning to go for a track day with it. I have done some racing lessons (twice on madza 3 mps and once on a rally car ford Escort mark II) but never drove my car on a track (I guess I didn't want to damage it in any way, but now the fun is calling me too much...).
Basically, I'd like to know if I should do anything to the car before going to the track? Any tips from drivers using their car everyday, and then bringing them to tracks?
I understand that this can become an expensive hobby, especially is something goes wrong...What is mostly to go wrong on a track day (beside crashing of course)? i'm planning to drive both with and without DSC, my end goal is to understand how the car behaves when pushed.
Cheers,
Yann
I currently own a '04 '8 231hp 6 MT with 30kmiles, loving it as it has been quite reliable so far (beside service, only the coils needed to be changed). Now that I have been driven it for a year, I'm planning to go for a track day with it. I have done some racing lessons (twice on madza 3 mps and once on a rally car ford Escort mark II) but never drove my car on a track (I guess I didn't want to damage it in any way, but now the fun is calling me too much...).
Basically, I'd like to know if I should do anything to the car before going to the track? Any tips from drivers using their car everyday, and then bringing them to tracks?
I understand that this can become an expensive hobby, especially is something goes wrong...What is mostly to go wrong on a track day (beside crashing of course)? i'm planning to drive both with and without DSC, my end goal is to understand how the car behaves when pushed.
Cheers,
Yann
11-04-2008, 09:18 AM
#2
drive stock first before you do any modifications. then modify based on what you experienced at the track. it would be foolish to slap on race coilovers and then find out that you don't like how the car feels. make sure all the maintenance is up to date on the car (brake fluid, pads, rotors, no leaks, etc. etc.) check tire pressure before and after you get on the track and between every session. take some basic tools. don't yank on the e-brake after a hot session. take in all the info you can from instructors and other drivers. ask the instructor if you can ride with him too. just have fun!
11-04-2008, 09:22 AM
#3
if you cant afford to total your car at a track day, then my first tip would be wait to track the car until you can.... other things to go wrong... brackets break, blown rear diffs, brakes and tires get smoked, lots of gas get wasted...
Another safer alternative would be to join your local autoX club... things can still go wrong and break, but there are no walls to hit if you really screw up.
Taken from another thread:
Another safer alternative would be to join your local autoX club... things can still go wrong and break, but there are no walls to hit if you really screw up.
Taken from another thread:
Originally Posted by kersh4w
when you mess up in autocross:
when you mess up in track racing. (this happened at englishtown)
when you mess up in track racing. (this happened at englishtown)
Last edited by Greenblurr93; 11-04-2008 at 01:43 PM.
11-04-2008, 09:41 AM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the advices. My car is stock and will probably remain stock. Regarding the walls, there are not many as it is an international circuit (http://www.mondello.ie/contact/?id=56).
Car has been regulary serviced and I'm not aware of any leaks.
I like your idea of autox club. Not sure if there is one near me but I will definitly check this out.
Car has been regulary serviced and I'm not aware of any leaks.
I like your idea of autox club. Not sure if there is one near me but I will definitly check this out.
11-04-2008, 10:30 AM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will definitely keep it easy. You are always more cautious when it's your own car... I will report out when my track day is done :-)
I decided to go for the half day instead of the full day, I think it's a lot to take already for my Rx8 which has only been sideways once, and it was not planned (btw, I love you DSC :-)
I decided to go for the half day instead of the full day, I think it's a lot to take already for my Rx8 which has only been sideways once, and it was not planned (btw, I love you DSC :-)
11-04-2008, 11:44 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Turn off DSC for your track event if you wish to learn to drive your car at the track. It is important that you get a transparent feel for your car's reactions.
A must is fresh high temp brake fluid (Valvoline Syntec is readliy available at any parts place, and is the minimum which you should use if Motul or ATE is not easily sourced). If it's your first outing, then all else stock is fine.
A few simple things which can be done to improve your car very much so, without swapping out suspension parts:
-Alignment. See the alignment sticky in the competition forum on this website.
-A great, sticky, Max Performance tire ranging closer to 200 UTQG treadwear rating (Dunlop Z1, Falken RT-615, Bridgestone RE-01R. etc.), or an Ultra High Performance which will give you more tread life for a bit less grip and response in return (Falken FK-452, Nitto 555, Dunlop 8090, etc.) ranging up to 300 UTQG for goes a long way in improving overall grip and lateral transition response. If you need a fresh set of tires, lean towards these kinds of tires if you're not running a dedicated set of track wheels/tires. Don't get a tire higher than 300 UTQG, as it will simply chunk apart at the track.
Other suspension items will come later. I tracked my car in stock form (other than brake pads, fluid and alignment) for a year before modifying any suspension parts.
Have fun. Track incidents do occur (about 1 per track day on average is what I've witnessed over the past few years). It's a calculated risk, but the environment at any well run track day is 100% geared towards safety.
A must is fresh high temp brake fluid (Valvoline Syntec is readliy available at any parts place, and is the minimum which you should use if Motul or ATE is not easily sourced). If it's your first outing, then all else stock is fine.
A few simple things which can be done to improve your car very much so, without swapping out suspension parts:
-Alignment. See the alignment sticky in the competition forum on this website.
-A great, sticky, Max Performance tire ranging closer to 200 UTQG treadwear rating (Dunlop Z1, Falken RT-615, Bridgestone RE-01R. etc.), or an Ultra High Performance which will give you more tread life for a bit less grip and response in return (Falken FK-452, Nitto 555, Dunlop 8090, etc.) ranging up to 300 UTQG for goes a long way in improving overall grip and lateral transition response. If you need a fresh set of tires, lean towards these kinds of tires if you're not running a dedicated set of track wheels/tires. Don't get a tire higher than 300 UTQG, as it will simply chunk apart at the track.
Other suspension items will come later. I tracked my car in stock form (other than brake pads, fluid and alignment) for a year before modifying any suspension parts.
Have fun. Track incidents do occur (about 1 per track day on average is what I've witnessed over the past few years). It's a calculated risk, but the environment at any well run track day is 100% geared towards safety.
11-04-2008, 03:06 PM
#14
It's Not Easy Being Green
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 1,846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
-Get tech'd early. Hopefully you are going to have an instructor. Try to meet him/her early as well. Getting those things out of the way will make it a little easier to start rolling.
-Make sure you have everything you need. Some HPDEs require specific safety gear or require you to bring your own numbers.
-Check your fluids. Bring an extra quart of oil. If you have OEM pads they're probably fine at 30k but if you can check them you should.
-Spend your first session learning the track and making sure you're getting comfortable with it. Don't bother trying to go super fast on the straights - just concentrate on figuring out the proper entry/exit speeds, apex, and brake zones. Remember slow in, fast out. Also remember to keep your inputs smooth and to keep your head up.
-Take the full day. Your gonna be pissed if you have to leave half-way because this car is gonna make you want to get back out there.
-Check/Tighten your lugnuts and your tire pressure. If you have a locknut make sure you have your lock tool. If you're on street tires and it's a moderate day you probably want to start around 32-33 psi and be running around 38-40psi on all 4. If any of your tires are over 40 at the end of a session you should probably bring that down a bit.
-When you first get on the track don't worry too much about being in the right gear. Not sure how fast the course is but unless you're planning on getting over 125mph you should stick to 3rd and 4th.
-That being said as the day goes along you should be between 5k and 8.5k rpms. If you dip below 5k you're gonna start feeling like a slug. Hitting your rev limiter is fine and recommended for short periods of time but if you're on a big, sloping turn and hitting your rev the entire time you should ease off a bit or go into the turn in 4th. You're not racing and the car does heat up significantly over 8.5k so don't sustain it.
-Remember to concentrate on your line. If you get behind someone in a different car they may be taking a completely different line than you. If you follow them your car may not be able to do what their car does.
-If your tank is below 1/2 at the end of a session add gas. If it gets below 1/4 the car can run into some fuel pump issues.
-Have fun! The car practically drives itself on the track. Really you just point and the **** goes. Makes it so much easier to enjoy the trip.
-Make sure you have everything you need. Some HPDEs require specific safety gear or require you to bring your own numbers.
-Check your fluids. Bring an extra quart of oil. If you have OEM pads they're probably fine at 30k but if you can check them you should.
-Spend your first session learning the track and making sure you're getting comfortable with it. Don't bother trying to go super fast on the straights - just concentrate on figuring out the proper entry/exit speeds, apex, and brake zones. Remember slow in, fast out. Also remember to keep your inputs smooth and to keep your head up.
-Take the full day. Your gonna be pissed if you have to leave half-way because this car is gonna make you want to get back out there.
-Check/Tighten your lugnuts and your tire pressure. If you have a locknut make sure you have your lock tool. If you're on street tires and it's a moderate day you probably want to start around 32-33 psi and be running around 38-40psi on all 4. If any of your tires are over 40 at the end of a session you should probably bring that down a bit.
-When you first get on the track don't worry too much about being in the right gear. Not sure how fast the course is but unless you're planning on getting over 125mph you should stick to 3rd and 4th.
-That being said as the day goes along you should be between 5k and 8.5k rpms. If you dip below 5k you're gonna start feeling like a slug. Hitting your rev limiter is fine and recommended for short periods of time but if you're on a big, sloping turn and hitting your rev the entire time you should ease off a bit or go into the turn in 4th. You're not racing and the car does heat up significantly over 8.5k so don't sustain it.
-Remember to concentrate on your line. If you get behind someone in a different car they may be taking a completely different line than you. If you follow them your car may not be able to do what their car does.
-If your tank is below 1/2 at the end of a session add gas. If it gets below 1/4 the car can run into some fuel pump issues.
-Have fun! The car practically drives itself on the track. Really you just point and the **** goes. Makes it so much easier to enjoy the trip.
Last edited by RK; 11-04-2008 at 03:08 PM.
11-04-2008, 04:04 PM
#16
Registered
Watch your coolant temps. In fact, invest in some real gauges and the Mazsport mod in order to avoid overheating the car. The OEM gauge is basically an idiot gauge and by the time the overheating engine shows up on the gauge, it may be too late. RB has a nice pod and a set of gauges. Not cheap, but neither is an engine rebuild/replacement.
11-04-2008, 07:16 PM
#17
coolant temps are an issue, but i'd recommend the cobb accessport over the mazsport cooling mod.
true, the accessport costs 7x what the mazsport cooling mod does. but if you end up buying the accessport down the road (and who wouldnt) you just wasted $100 buying the mazsport cooling mod.
true, the accessport costs 7x what the mazsport cooling mod does. but if you end up buying the accessport down the road (and who wouldnt) you just wasted $100 buying the mazsport cooling mod.
11-04-2008, 07:22 PM
#18
if you cant afford to total your car at a track day, then my first tip would be wait to track the car until you can.... other things to go wrong... brackets break, blown rear diffs, brakes and tires get smoked, lots of gas get wasted...
Another safer alternative would be to join your local autoX club... things can still go wrong and break, but there are no walls to hit if you really screw up.
Taken from another thread:
Another safer alternative would be to join your local autoX club... things can still go wrong and break, but there are no walls to hit if you really screw up.
Taken from another thread:
too bad I left early that day ... missed all the fun
11-05-2008, 02:40 AM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Watch your coolant temps. In fact, invest in some real gauges and the Mazsport mod in order to avoid overheating the car. The OEM gauge is basically an idiot gauge and by the time the overheating engine shows up on the gauge, it may be too late. RB has a nice pod and a set of gauges. Not cheap, but neither is an engine rebuild/replacement.
I will look at this before going on the track. a new renesis engine in Ireland is 10k€...
11-05-2008, 02:44 AM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
-Get tech'd early. Hopefully you are going to have an instructor. Try to meet him/her early as well. Getting those things out of the way will make it a little easier to start rolling.
-Make sure you have everything you need. Some HPDEs require specific safety gear or require you to bring your own numbers.
-Check your fluids. Bring an extra quart of oil. If you have OEM pads they're probably fine at 30k but if you can check them you should.
-Spend your first session learning the track and making sure you're getting comfortable with it. Don't bother trying to go super fast on the straights - just concentrate on figuring out the proper entry/exit speeds, apex, and brake zones. Remember slow in, fast out. Also remember to keep your inputs smooth and to keep your head up.
-Take the full day. Your gonna be pissed if you have to leave half-way because this car is gonna make you want to get back out there.
-Check/Tighten your lugnuts and your tire pressure. If you have a locknut make sure you have your lock tool. If you're on street tires and it's a moderate day you probably want to start around 32-33 psi and be running around 38-40psi on all 4. If any of your tires are over 40 at the end of a session you should probably bring that down a bit.
-When you first get on the track don't worry too much about being in the right gear. Not sure how fast the course is but unless you're planning on getting over 125mph you should stick to 3rd and 4th.
-That being said as the day goes along you should be between 5k and 8.5k rpms. If you dip below 5k you're gonna start feeling like a slug. Hitting your rev limiter is fine and recommended for short periods of time but if you're on a big, sloping turn and hitting your rev the entire time you should ease off a bit or go into the turn in 4th. You're not racing and the car does heat up significantly over 8.5k so don't sustain it.
-Remember to concentrate on your line. If you get behind someone in a different car they may be taking a completely different line than you. If you follow them your car may not be able to do what their car does.
-If your tank is below 1/2 at the end of a session add gas. If it gets below 1/4 the car can run into some fuel pump issues.
-Have fun! The car practically drives itself on the track. Really you just point and the **** goes. Makes it so much easier to enjoy the trip.
-Make sure you have everything you need. Some HPDEs require specific safety gear or require you to bring your own numbers.
-Check your fluids. Bring an extra quart of oil. If you have OEM pads they're probably fine at 30k but if you can check them you should.
-Spend your first session learning the track and making sure you're getting comfortable with it. Don't bother trying to go super fast on the straights - just concentrate on figuring out the proper entry/exit speeds, apex, and brake zones. Remember slow in, fast out. Also remember to keep your inputs smooth and to keep your head up.
-Take the full day. Your gonna be pissed if you have to leave half-way because this car is gonna make you want to get back out there.
-Check/Tighten your lugnuts and your tire pressure. If you have a locknut make sure you have your lock tool. If you're on street tires and it's a moderate day you probably want to start around 32-33 psi and be running around 38-40psi on all 4. If any of your tires are over 40 at the end of a session you should probably bring that down a bit.
-When you first get on the track don't worry too much about being in the right gear. Not sure how fast the course is but unless you're planning on getting over 125mph you should stick to 3rd and 4th.
-That being said as the day goes along you should be between 5k and 8.5k rpms. If you dip below 5k you're gonna start feeling like a slug. Hitting your rev limiter is fine and recommended for short periods of time but if you're on a big, sloping turn and hitting your rev the entire time you should ease off a bit or go into the turn in 4th. You're not racing and the car does heat up significantly over 8.5k so don't sustain it.
-Remember to concentrate on your line. If you get behind someone in a different car they may be taking a completely different line than you. If you follow them your car may not be able to do what their car does.
-If your tank is below 1/2 at the end of a session add gas. If it gets below 1/4 the car can run into some fuel pump issues.
-Have fun! The car practically drives itself on the track. Really you just point and the **** goes. Makes it so much easier to enjoy the trip.
11-05-2008, 05:51 AM
#22
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oh ok. not much variation in regard to the water temp needle, always goes to the middle and never moves afterwards (even when I push the car). It will be probably different on a track though.
11-05-2008, 06:47 AM
#23
Registered
Seriously consider a set of aftermarket gauges ala Racing Beat pod/gauges. Go here: http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda4.htm. They are also available in metric.
11-05-2008, 07:42 AM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 987
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^
I honestly think that's overkill for track day #1.
I've been at it a couple years in this car and haven't overheated in hot, humid Florida summers at Sebring and Homestead. Mostly 25-30 minute sessiones, but some 45-50 minute sessions included
I honestly think that's overkill for track day #1.
I've been at it a couple years in this car and haven't overheated in hot, humid Florida summers at Sebring and Homestead. Mostly 25-30 minute sessiones, but some 45-50 minute sessions included
11-05-2008, 08:07 AM
#25
It's Not Easy Being Green
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 1,846
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As long as he isn't driving in a super hot, super dry environment 20-30 minute sessions at a low experience level shouldn't cause any problems. He should check his coolant w/other fluids but other than that I wouldn't sweat it. The car has overheating problems during extended track sessions or in very hot, very dry (ie. Arizona) weather when the car isn't moving enough to generate any cooling.
Take the plastic cover off the engine and keep your hood up between runs and the engine will have cooled off significantly by the time you go back out.
