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Engine replacement incoming..
2 Attachment(s)
Well, looks like I've been approved for a replacement, a month away from warranty expiration. I guess I'm happy that I don't have to shell out 5+ grand just yet, but can't seem to fight off the :eyetwitch as I read up a bit on some reman stories and Mazda's seemingly lackluster rebuild quality?
These were the compression numbers from about 10 months ago on the current engine @74k: Code:
Rotor 1 (kPa x100)Attachment 287792 RIWWP's (do you have a nickname I should be using?:squint:) old chart, looks like they'd fare worse on the new one.. Attachment 287793 I suppose the present numbers didn't impress either, no runaround of any sort.. just a call saying "hey, you're getting a new* motor.. :jerkit:" *may or may not be built by dr. frankenstein Anyway, since the rebuild fund won't be needed in the near future, I don't mind putting a slight dent into it to give the new engine the best start I can. I'll have coils, wires, plugs, and motor mounts waiting. Any other recommended improvements/replacements I should look into, since the engine's already coming out? It'll be done at the end of next week and I would look to put in one more order for parts with Mazmart on Monday if needed, and assuming that Paul remembers where I am on the map. :) Arigatou gozaimasu, D |
you might as well go with the BHR coil setup if your going to replace it all and had the money saved up.
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Gonna do that one myself when it slides out of warranty.
So far so good though. Purring like a kitten. I definitely feel a drastic difference in response. No strange or unexpected sounds. The only thing I've noticed is a single classic rpm dip during a hot start earlier today, after a ~25-30 minute drive. Stopped once again later to fill up and add some Lucas. The rpm dip didn't repeat. The tech did not make any specific break-in recommendations, only to "take it easy for a little while," but from what I've seen here there's a rift between babying it (<3-4k rpm) to settle in; and those opting for the immediate hard driving to avoid early carbon build-up? I'm thinking maybe a combination of both--give it a little time at <4k for the first 100-200mi and then <6-7k for another 500-600mi. Change oil and filter. I'll have some good rpm variance here for both phases. Thoughts? |
clutch & flywheel.
when my motor was replaced, I talked to the tech and he installed a new OE clutch and BHR flywheel at no charge. |
Wish I would've thought of that one.. it's within my budget as far as parts go.
Piss. :( Oh well, they were willing to put in new mounts at no charge, but the manager never connected with the tech and the engine ended up going in before I had a chance to get them the new parts. I can use the DIY experience I guess. :suspect: |
Quick update.. ~500 miles in and overall things have been smooth. The only consistent irregularity I've noticed is a raspy sound in the 1.5-2k range. Seems to get more obvious as the engine heats up. It's always audible when starting from a dead stop, after the clutch is fully engaged, or having to stay in 2nd when rolling up to a light that's just turned green. Never when idling.
Sounds like a stick being run down a washboard.. here are a couple videos, at 0:05 in both(a little hard to hear, but it's there): I remember reading another reman thread that mentioned the same symptom, but I haven't had luck finding it again. Warranty expires on the 12th and I'll be taking it in at the end of this week to do a final warranty check, maintenance, and compression test. Are there any recommended end-of-warranty tasks I should be mindful of, besides praying to the reman Gods? :uhh: Cheers, D |
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