Engine replacement full photos from start to finish :) - RX8Club.com



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Old 08-07-2017, 11:11 PM   #1
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Engine replacement full photos from start to finish :)

Photo album from start to finish: https://goo.gl/photos/KjAjwFiYxroUSXqJ9

So my recently purchased RX8 engine seized, I knew it was on its way out due to bad compression and was planning a trip to get a refurb engine fitted over in England but as it seized when I was parking it the engine had to come to us. I sent my dad the removal guide and on paper it seemed to be manageable in his driveway and give him a reason to get a nice big ratchet set he'd his eye on from last year.

In practice it was a hell of a job, we spent Thursday each week working at it, week one was disconnecting everything and removing anything we could, throttle body etc, and the PITA removal of the tamper proof bracket on the ECU.

The engine came out easy enough and a couple of strong shoulders lifted it out after it was hoisted up with the neighbours electric engine hoist ( A swing frame (as in one you would get in a park) with a hoist attached to the middle of it which was also a bit random as to whether it would lift a little or a lot when the button was pushed.

Once both engines were on the ground my dad took everything off the old block and transplanted it onto the new one in about half an hour while it was fresh in his head. Very technically minded.

On seeing the clutch we decided it would be worth replacing the centre disc while the engine was out and i ordered a blueprint clutch. We picked this up from parcelforce as well as hire an engine crane. On opening the clutch we found it was bigger than the existing one and was actually for the 231hp. I put in a call to Essex rotary as I've got a few things from them and found them very knowledgeable to be told blueprint clutches are notorious for failing and the original clutch should still have a good bit of life in it (there aren't any clutch issues driving - it was more of a "whilst its out me may as well do it)

Then we proceeded to lower the new engine into the car to get it into the bell housing, this was one of the hardest parts of the job, lots of moving it about, engaging, disengaging, lowering and raising but it eventually went in. We then reconnected everything finishing off with the air box as well as installing a cooling fan mod which makes both the fans come on at 90c and stay on until coolant reaches around 83c. This can't be bad compared to stock as only 1 fan comes on at 103c.

We had a 'minor' obstacle when fitting the throttle body one of the nuts fell out of the plastic on the oil filler side.... and down the pipe into the sump. So that is why there is footage of the sump removed (22 f-ing nuts). We were lucky it came off relatively easily without damage and the seal remained intact so it wasn't just as bad a disaster as we originally thought and it was interesting seeing the engine from below.

So now was the big moment, fluids were added and it was time for the first turn of the key. As soon as I turned it the radio backlight was flashing on and off, it did start but the dials were going crazy and it didn't run for long. Everything electrical was going crazy down to the hazard lights (Psycho style hazard lights: https://photos.google.com/share/AF1Q...NyMUV1US0zUUpB. So this was issue 1. We then found a loose connector (white circular) and couldn't work out where it went (issue no 2). At this stage it had been 13 hours non-stop was getting dark so I disconnected the battery, left it on charge and returned home to find out what was wrong. By seaching RX8 crazy electrics I found out that it was a grounding issue. I then looked at wiring diagrams and found the connector was the oil pressure sensor.

So the next night dad called to say he would pick me up and we would check the ground under the airbox, which was indeed loose. Tightened it and all the electrics started working as they should. Also plugged in the Oil sensor. The car then started and needed a bit of throttle as it wasn't idling on its own. The ODB was showing coolant temp as -40c .. so we plugged the thermostat in :D and since then the car is running great, I had one CEL for knock sensor but this was checked and has since cleared itself and not came back and I have done the first 40 miles and all is good. Keeping it under 3500 revs and doing oil and filter change at 500 miles then will slowly but surely start edging up the revs.

So all in all we were both very happy in the end, it was a bonding experience and a satisfying one. It was a lot more complex than it looked on paper but we did it :D with only 2 connectors to plug in and 1 loose earth nut.

It was a hell of an experience - there are boys doing these that say they can be done in 3 hours but I would say we spent closer to 30 hours lol. My dad has a very good technical knowledge but has not worked on engines in maybe 20 years. I have never done something on this scale.

Happy to report the car has completed 57.9 miles and all is well - had one misfire flash but it was a one off at the start of a journey and did not happen again the rest of the way there or back. I think going into the project it looked straight forward on paper but in practice it was so much more complex - so many electrics and awkward plugs to get at coupled with it near being mid-engined. We had to extend the engine crane arm past the last hole as it is so far in.

It would certainly be much easier with a proper lift.

It was a tough, hard experience but in the end the joy we had when everything worked and continued to work was great and a fantastic bonding experience! Both very happy with the end result after a bit of a heart wrench the night before when the electrics went haywire. It was also a great learning experience for me as I got to soak up a lot of knowledge about the different parts of the engine.

Fiddliest bits:
Removing the tamper cover of the ECU,
Disconnecting the plugs in general (particularly the 3 on rear of throttle body and the 2 on top of gear box reverse/neutral swithces.)
Getting the new engine to engage in the bell housing, this took a lot of manoeuvring and turning and effort.
Nut falling out of the throttle body oil filler neck, down the filler neck leading to sump removal (which was luckily quite easy and done without damaging the pan or the seal once the 22 bolts were removed)

Video of hot start https://goo.gl/photos/zYdoam5PZVcTvr3H6




OBD Readings from a journey tonight, 55% max throttle, under 3500 RPM, nice stable coolant temp and the fans only came on when was parking the car at the new lower point of 91c :D cool


And medusa:


Hopefully the photos are of some interest and it will be an experience to run in and look after this engine and take pride in knowing that we did the work ourselves. Happy to answer any questions on any of the pics

Last edited by LBManiac; 08-07-2017 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 08-08-2017, 08:06 AM   #2
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<sotto voce>Who wants to tell him that this already exists?</sotto voce>

I will admit, that's one of the more interesting uses for a shovel I've seen.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:28 PM   #3
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I did find that part quite entertaining but it served it's purpose allowing the engine to go in at an angle lol.
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Old 08-08-2017, 07:48 PM   #4
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I agree. That part was a significant PITA.

I just shortened the chain on the front hoist eye and then when I got past that front crossmember I crawled under and used the exhaust manifold outlet as a lever to position everything.

I think your idea was better.
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Old 08-09-2017, 08:46 PM   #5
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Car has transformed. Carrick to Belfast with a lap round town. Car has steady power in 5th gear now even using less than half throttle and keeping under 3500rpm. Old engine wouldn't pull you out of bed in 5th and was lucky to get between 15-20mpg. Asides from a fuel pipe popping off earlier (oops) and being promptly reconnected and left to sit for a couple of hours evapourating all is good.



Also passed the 100 mile mark today :D



May as well throw this in here too, this is the album showing the upgrade we did to the coils (which came from America to UK :D ) prior to the engine being replaced - D585 UF262 IGNITION COIL PACKS MAZDA + 10MM WIRES + ADAPTER WIRING HARNESS

I have had to work on a bit of a budget but I've managed to get the engine, coils and cooling fan mod and upgraded starter done for around 1500 :D

https://goo.gl/photos/gQtqGXVavZ9VdpzY6

Last edited by LBManiac; 08-09-2017 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:56 AM   #6
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I've never seen a tamper cover on an RX8 pcm before. Is that an EU market thing?
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:32 AM   #7
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Really not sure, from all I seen it appears to be the norm on all cars. Watched a lot of vids and guides about engine removal before doing it.
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:33 PM   #8
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I've never seen a tamper cover on an RX8 pcm before. Is that an EU market thing?
I've seen this on all the UK imported rx8 ECUs .
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:44 PM   #9
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Are you talking imperial or US gallon ? 25 per us gallon would be very un renesis like . Edit : nvm , i see the (i) after mpg .

Also : the last couple of engine installs I've done , the engine went in first attempt . No mucking around whatsoever. Key I think is 1/ clutch alignment - I use an actual input shaft as an alignment tool but I've done it by eye and got equally good results. 2/getting the angle of the engine to match the angle of the gearbox before lifting it in. This is pretty easy to do just by changing the lift point on your chain.
As far as getting to bits and pieces , I find that if I just adjust the height of the engine/g (before fitting the mounts) to suit the job I'm attempting it makes it really easy . The x-member under the g/box will support the weight of the engine plus g/box no problem.
I always do the entire job myself .... I find it easier that way than doing it with someone.

Last edited by Brettus; 08-12-2017 at 07:52 PM.
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Old 08-13-2017, 02:26 AM   #10
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Strange must just be eu models have the tamper proof cover. It's a real bollocks to get off... it serves no purpose either other than preventing access to the connectors.

it was our first time doing this and hopefully last. Great experience all the same and great satisfaction in doing it ourselves and knowing it was done right. Huge lack of rotary knowledge out there.
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Old 08-13-2017, 03:04 AM   #11
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I tried installing one that way once and will never do it that way again; I'd much rather drop the driveshaft and PPF, then pull the engine with trans out together. You can still leave the PPF bolted to the diff and just drop it off the trans.
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Old 09-21-2017, 11:00 AM   #12
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Hello, I am interested in replace my engine, I have a Rx8 2004 with 176kmiles. I am located in Baltimore MD, any knows a place or great mechanic who can help me with this.
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Old 09-21-2017, 11:08 AM   #13
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Hello, I am interested in replace my engine, I have a Rx8 2004 with 176kmiles. I am located in Baltimore MD, any knows a place or great mechanic who can help me with this.

Post in the regional forum that applies to you.
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Old 09-21-2017, 12:12 PM   #14
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Just after reading this thread, I just wanted to add some of my experiences for those who may be reading this and are thinking about pulling a motor. I have had pulled out and installed my motor a half dozen times during my REW build for one reason or another. I have gotten to the point where by manipulating the floor jack that supports the transmission (still mounted in the car) and playing with the angle and elevations of my chain hoist, I am usually able to stab the transmission output shaft into the pilot bearing and get everything to seat usually in 15 minutes. Never needed a second pair of hands. $50 chain hoist, eye bolt, and a 8' piece of 4"x 6" wood spanning 4 floor joists in the attic. For pulling the motor, I simply roll the car back, pull the motor up, roll the car back, pull motor up, until everything's clear.

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