Engine Replacement
 

Is there a particular technical fault that is used as a base line for replacing the engine?.....what is that problem?

I have been told by several people that if the engine fails the compression test, the engine should be replaced. What criteria has been used in making the decision based on those test results?

As far as I know there is a standard number that is used for compression testing and if it falls below those numbers then it need replaced....or of course if an apex seal breaks or something mechanical breaking then that's also needs replacement of course...

My car's engine was replaced at 2x,000 miles. It ran VERY strong. Dyno'd well. Problem was, after long freeway cruising, it'd simply DIE. I'd literally have to floor it in an attempt to get up to surface street speed limits. Thus, the compression was bad only sometimes.

I have had a couple of engines replaced. One was not as the result of compression. Coolant would enter the second rotor after it sat over night. This resulted in a little start up problem and ruff idle for a few minutes. It was replaced under warranty.
The rotary engine is so simple that most of the problems will be due to lack of compression. The apex, corner and side seals are the weak point of the engine.

yeah from what i have heard it's usually due to a seal(considering that's about all that can go wrong) apex, side or coolant seal....I know one member mysql101 (i believe) had a crack in his front iron and rebuilt it himself(not coverd under warranty because of turbo) but that's the only thing i have really heard of that something just broke1

Well typically its lack of power and no start issues but occasionally there are small things. Theres a overtightened front pully bolt or rear flywheel nut causing the needle bearing to crush and then makes the pulley wooble and throws a code at you, that has happend on early rebuild but we learned from that, you can spot it in the test room at work. The rear extension bolts can leak, the gaskets on the rotor housings can fail, they have a break off point on the inner gasket to handle the heat but it can still split when its overheated and leak coolant into the engine. Cracked housings are usually due to either over tightening of the extension bolts or a way overheated engine. The oil pressure regulators can fail, rare but we have had to change them out. Pretty much its usually carbon build up on the side seal springs, imagine pulling some burnt meat off your grill, gotta wear safety glasses when its failed due to carbon build up.

Typically I believe failed compression is around 6-6.5 at dealerships but I dont honestly recall, its can still run but it wont have much power.

We would love to see any pics you might show of this....

Yeah everytime I work disassembly I end up coming out a mess, I may have to work it for a week in 2 weeks and I will try to get pics. BTW I totally left out the apex seal breaking off the list, its not as often as carbon build up issues but it has happend. Also the usual low on oil over heated engines, I was tired when I typed some of that stuff yesterday, they have us doing 48/hrs 5 days which is nothing really but repatitive and gets to you. Imagine you and another person having a goal to build 105 engines in a week, luckily I also press bearings and I get to rebuild failed engines that were built. Failed engines are usual due to a gasket that slipped out in building and got pinched and failed the leak test or low compression when ran due to a missing srping or something like that, I get the pleasure of tearing down the engines and doing a write up on whats wrong with it then building it back up and cleaning it as I go. Sort of a challenge but I seem to be the only person at work that doesn't have failed engines especially on the reworked builds.

We all look forward to your Post...thanks