Engine Dyiing! ay any speed
 

So I recently had my car serviced and the dealership said their was a recall for power loss. They had to reprogram the computer which causes more oil to be spit into the engine. After they gave back my car, I drove my car out onto the street and I stalled. I thought it was a mistake at first but when I started it back up and contiued to drive, my engine would shut off the moment I take my foot off the gas. It happened at any speed and when I stop at a red light I have to restart the car without using the manual clutch and gas way while moving. This caused me to quickly U-turn and bring it back to the dealership. A day later, they said they might need to replace my engine. I get a phonecall today and they said that they just needed to replace the engine mounts and that my aftermarket battery was a bit loose and caused the car to act up. I'm not sure but once the car starts, it doesnt really need the battery connected to conintue to run as it runs off the alternator does it? Also they said I need to replace my clutch costing about 1,560. Is that correct? Can any confirm if this dealer is bsing me about everything? First they told me that I might need to replace my engine but now they say its just the battery. :banghead:

My car is a 6 speed 2004 Mazda Rx-8 with 47,000 miles on it. This is the first problem i've had with it so far and I maintain it as well as I can.

I'm not really buying the battery line.
- do NOT let them replace your clutch for that price. Talk to Charles R. Hill, he could get you an upgraded clutch for a great price. Dealerships always have such HUGE mark up on those items.

I'd head back to a different dealership and tell them your car is stalling. Do you have the car back in your posession?

It actually might be your battery. I had a 2000 Nissan sentra for a while that had a loose battery connector, when I stalled it would shake the connector loose. It would start cause it would touch but periodically my car would die because it would break the circuit. I just don't know why you would need a new clutch at 47k miles.

6k RPM launches :lol2:

I'd take it to another dealership and see what they say, and that much money for a new clutch is RETARDED expensive. I purchased a clutch kit *Stage two* for 250 bucks, then had it installed for $100 at a local shop.

What are they doing? Installing a funny car drag racing clutch in your car? $1,560???

I'm picking up the car tomorrow and i'm going to check out what they did to my car to "fix" it. No way in hell am I going to pay that much for a new clutch, unless it really is a funny car drag racing clutch that somehow will make my car beast

what dealership?

I have a feeling is that.

After they reprogram your ECU, they *PULLED* your battery and reconnect. thats why your car stall on you when you're out with gas pedal off. It WILL happen. As the ECU trying to re-learn everything.

So now after a day or 2, your ECU learn enough already and not stalling anymore, thats why they say its ok. you can take your car away.

Oh btw, even when your car is moving, it will draw some power from the battery. it will only charge it when it does not need the power. Try to pull your battery connector after your car has started, your car might just stall right in front of you.

Screw that 1560 replacing Clutch crap. couple months ago when my clutch bracket broke, the dealership told me they need to replace my clutch to keep my bracket warranty (bullshit), then the number comes out to be like what 1300 something. I almost had a heart attack when I heard that. of course I didnt buy their bullshit, but my clutch was due anyway(it chatters alot) I went online and found the cheapest OE clutch set, 170 shipped(they dont have it anymore) installed for another 380 bux.

You can get a Stage 1 Exedy Clutch from CRH for like what, 320 right ? and an OEM clutch for about 400 bux from CRH also. Yep, Stage 1 actually cheaper than OE spec.

then install I will say about what 400 bux ?

They probably want to sell you a clutch made of Titanium or something.

my battery did this. I was driving at 80 mph on the freeway and my car shut off. THen I had to jump it and it would die after a few miles. Got it to the dealership (which I used to work at ironically) and it failed the battery test and I got a battery under warranty. It was caused by my aftermarket system because I had no capacitor but like i said, I worked there so I got a free battery,

aw, Charles worried bout my car? =p I posted this on the local section last week though

Dealership = Stealership

You'd be insane to let them do that replace at even 1/3 the cost they quoted you.

Cyberpitz has the right mojo.

As for the battery it does need to be connected to complete the circuit. If a post connection is lose even if the alternator is charging the circuit may be disrupted and you can have problems.

As for the clutch, if it doesn't feel like it is slipping then drive on, if you do need a new clutch you'll know it soon enough. This sounds like dealer BS.

How many miles are on your car?