Sydo

lunkenpilot

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

If they're in good shape, you could probably get at least as much for the wheels and seats together as you could have gotten for the whole car.

PleaseW84myRX8

Looking at getting some Black Halo Racing pulleys. The under drive set. I live in Nevada where it frequently reaches 105-110 here pending on how close I drive to Vegas. I've read mixed reviews on whether or not I should be doing this as many have said they had cooling issues afterwards and many have said they noticed no difference in cooling or a/c operation. Can I get an unbalance to this scale?

Also, my 06 rx8 has about 55,000 miles on it. While I'm doing the pulleys, should I do the water pump, too? How many miles can a factory water pump get us? Right now, I see no signs of failure. I was just wondering if I should kill two birds in the event this will fail soon.

Steve Dallas

I wouldn't do either thing. Underdrive pulleys may get you 2 or 3 HP at 7500 RPM - really only useful for track work. How much time do you spend at or above 7500 RPM? If the water pump isn't leaking or screaming it is fine. Best to wait until you actually need to replace it.

PleaseW84myRX8

K thanks for the info on the water pump. The rx8 is dedicated track. But I race in a bracket that requires me to be mostly stock. So I have to keep things like the A/C intact and all that. And I find it useful anyway during hot days so I just want to make sure the car doesn't over heat and the A/C still works. Way more concerned about the overheating, though.

Steve Dallas

Ah. Didn't realize you were racing. I don't have any empirical information for you, but perhaps I can send you down the right search path. I believe their are 2 schools of thought on underdrive pulleys and cooling:

1. Underdrive pulleys aid cooling, because they reduce cavitation at high RPM. This may be true--especially in the case of the earliest water pumps that had serious problems with cavitation
2. Underdrive pulleys hurt cooling, because they allow the system to heat soak sooner by running the water pump at a lower output level

What I would do is call Charles at BHR and talk it over with him. He is a very helpful man. Also, if you are wondering why BHR advertises 2 to 3HP and everyone else advertises 5HP, it is because Charles is also a very honest man.

If you decide you want to install a set, that would be a good time to swap the water pump with the Series 2 model, which performs better than all earlier revisions.

PleaseW84myRX8

Understood. Talked to Charles. I do like his other products that I've bought and installed. It is weird to see so many options out there all boasting vastly different performance numbers.

S2 water pump, is that part number 15100A? A 2010 RX-8 seems to have the same part number as my 2006. How do I know the difference? Advice on the mazmart Re-medy water pump? Huge price difference. Not sure if it is justified if the 15100A works fine. Have had no problems with mine in Vegas and Reno summer heat.

PhillipM

The S2 worked fine for me for race use, just needs one bolt hole altering to fit an S1

diomedes

Didn't want to make a thread for this :

How do new all season tires fare in mild winter Canadian weather? I'm thinking the occasional 10 cm snowfall.I've always used winter tires and found them to be amazing, but for budget reasons I'm thinking of just cheaping it and putting new all seasons on the rear wheels only since winter's halfway done now, it's a r3.
Thanks

New Yorker

For an occasional 4" of snow, I think all-seasons will be okay, as long as you're mindful that you're driving without winter tires and, well… drive accordingly. But I would urge you to NOT mix tire types. Use the same tires on all four wheels. While this article from Tire Rack is now over ten years old, I suspect the points made still apply:
https://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech...jsp?techid=164

diomedes

Sort of what I was expecting as an answer, good to hear it from elsewhere.

As for the costs, like I dumped a ton into a clutch job and then had some giant moving costs so I don't know. I'd like to do what should be done, but two tires may be the temporary solution. When I presented the place with the idea they said an alignment would actually be what's necessary in that situation .

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

How would all-seasons save costs over winter tires? This is a separate set of wheels dedicated for summer use, right?

New Yorker

UnknownJinX

There is less initial cost to getting a set of all-season tires, but long-term would be similar.

Another consideration is all-weather tires. I heard good things about Toyota Celsius. Those tires are closer to winter tires and yet can still be used in summer. They just don't perform as well as summer tires in summer.

gwilliams6

I use the Continental ExtremeContact DWS 06
Here is Tire Racks ratings for Ultra-High Performance All Season Tires
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/surve...jsp?type=UHPAS

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

I had the (older) DWS tires on my lowered / rolled 8 for year round usage. They were okay.

Nothing beats a real winter tire in the winter ice and snow. Even the DWS is weak compared to a (good) dedicated winter tire.

UnknownJinX

I'd take people's reviews with a grain of salt. I personally looked at Tire Rack's own objective test with data:

https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tests/t...y.jsp?ttid=230

Notice that none of the tires are rated above 4 (out of 10, presumably) in snow performance. If people are giving them good snow rating, either they haven't used snow tires ever, or they know all-season tires won't be as good as snow tires in the snow and gave it a rating relative to other all-season tires, not snow tires.

With one set, you are always gonna compromise something. Either you sacrifice snow performance(performance all-season), or you sacrifice summer performance(all-weather), or just Jack of All Trades, Master of None(most all-season).

Michael Balla

I just bought an rx8 but it sucks to start it if it's cold it starts better if it's hot it wont start at all but when u can get it started it runs like a dream no clanks no noises no loss of power its responsive it's beautiful all around except the starting so I wanna ask is there any solution other than full rebuild

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

How fast is your starter? Good battery? Good ignition?

After that check compression..... not much you can do about low comp.... but other things can effect starting

UnknownJinX

Really sounds like a case of low compression here.

The power loss won't be apparent until a Civic Si(or just a new Civic Touring) passes you without any effort.

Rotaries build up compression as they spin faster so it can feel fine at higher revs.

mazdafan1892

Hey guys, back with another question and I really need your help. On my 05 Rx-8 When I get my car after leaving the heater on with the air coming vents open, I hear this clicking sound from under the glove box. It comes and goes. Not sure where it's coming from. I think it may be the actuator ??? Not even sure if there is one in there.


Last year I had a rodent get into the car and I had to have ALL the things taken out of the engine bay, I had to have it detailed, the blower motor was replaced and the padding along the firewall. The rodent actually came back again to chew on the new padding but not as much as last time. I sprayed concentrated peppermint oil to make sure they dont come back and I keep the vents closed. Also I inspected the engine bay, nothing is chewed up besides the padding a little, next to the windshield washer fluid tank.

One more thing slight water coming into my trunk. Not sure where, going to do the hose test soon. But a friend mentioning spraying WD40 around the tail light gasket seals or something. I forgot what he said. My mechanic years ago drilled holes in my tail lights without asking me first.

arakawa

Did you check the cabin air filter and fan behind the glove box? Last time I had noise coming from there was a bunch of dried leaves that somehow got in there.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Do you have daylight running lights? The relay for DRLs is back there, and I've had it clatter on and off once in a while. Soldered replacement relays into the module and it has been fine for a while.

Is it like a rapid clatter? Do your headlights flicker when it happens?

mazdafan1892

Thanks for the reply, I will check that but I am 98$ sure that this is an electrical clicking versus leaves.

I wil check my head lights but I am pretty sure that they are fine. Too. it sounds like the HVAC actuator noise based on other youtube video. I will have to open and inspect more.


A couple of other things. The heating system is finechy, It works but I will have to turn the dial slowly. Something is up. The other thing is I recently had a slow leak fixed on one of my tires and the tpms sensor wont go away. Not sure if it needs to be cleared but they said to drive it for a while and it should disappear. Thoughts?