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^ Warm it up to what? Coolant temp = 180F? That takes about 8-10 minutes with my car when driving it at low load. Even then, the oil temp is still low, as it takes oil much longer to warm. I give it a good 20 minutes, before I get on it.
The ECU is silent, as it has no moving parts, and is designed to avoid all oscillation. What you are probably hearing is the fuel pump priming pulse. Many fuel pumps are noisy when cold.
How does one "break in the rain"? This has me concerned, because I have never broken in my rain, and have always used it as-is from the sky. Surely, I have been missing out on something all these years!
Braking in the rain could be a combination of any number of variables. What specific car, pads, rotors, tires, fluid (and date of last flush)?
Thank you for commenting. Yeah your probably right about the fuel priming pulse, it sounds similar. I agree with the 20 min warmup. As for the breaking in the rain. What flush are you referring to. Break fluid? Last time I checked mine looked like this
Also any thoughts on slow acceleration? When I take off on the parkway, I feel the car is slow when accelerating. I am wondering if the MAF is malfunctioning, actually not 100% or if its one of the fuel injectors. I have a OBD reader, last time I checked no codes, also in the past I have used a long flat head to hear the injectors are firing and I have maf sensory spray I have used in the past. Lastly my battery terminals needs a little cleaning but it should be working fine.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 11-11-2018 at 10:53 AM.
Thank you for commenting. Yeah your probably right about the fuel priming pulse, it sounds similar. I agree with the 20 min warmup. As for the breaking in the rain. What flush are you referring to. Break fluid? Last time I checked mine looked like this
Also any thoughts on slow acceleration? When I take off on the parkway, I feel the car is slow when accelerating. I am wondering if the MAF is malfunctioning, actually not 100% or if its one of the fuel injectors. I have a OBD reader, last time I checked no codes, also in the past I have used a long flat head to hear the injectors are firing and I have maf sensory spray I have used in the past. Lastly my battery terminals needs a little cleaning but it should be working fine.
if the maf or an injector wasn't working it would likely do more than slow acceleration. Usually it will miss and run like crap. It will also throw codes. Is it noticeably slower and still smooth? Or is it slow and jumpy?.
Never idle to warm up. It's a myth that should have died with carburators. Start the car, wait for 15 seconds or so, and start driving easily.
In that case, it depends on the traffic and weather(rarely gets below freezing where I live). Generally it takes 5~10 minutes for me to reach 180F, then I give it another 5 minutes or so before I drive it hard. Did 2 UOA and never had any excessive wear, so I guess I am doing it right.
SD: do you have an oil temp gauge? You can see how long it takes oil to warm up? Do your oil coolers still have the thermostat spring inside?
That brake fluid looks normal. If your brakes are wet, then they will feel a bit funny. Go into an automatic car wash and you will know what I mean. It should dry pretty quickly, though. I never have any issues in the rain save for some occasional brake noise(normal with semi-metallic pads).
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 11-11-2018 at 01:54 PM.
if the maf or an injector wasn't working it would likely do more than slow acceleration. Usually it will miss and run like crap. It will also throw codes. Is it noticeably slower and still smooth? Or is it slow and jumpy?.
What's up dannobre, Not sure if they are working 100% I have to get that checked out in the future. My current mechanic is NOT a stickler. He is a if its not broke, don't fix it and lazy. Idk..trying to find a good rotary mechanic is hella hard. I don't want to get screwed. I already put a ton of money into my car.
Originally Posted by UnknownJinX
Never idle to warm up. It's a myth that should have died with carburators. Start the car, wait for 15 seconds or so, and start driving easily.
In that case, it depends on the traffic and weather(rarely gets below freezing where I live). Generally it takes 5~10 minutes for me to reach 180F, then I give it another 5 minutes or so before I drive it hard. Did 2 UOA and never had any excessive wear, so I guess I am doing it right.
SD: do you have an oil temp gauge? You can see how long it takes oil to warm up? Do your oil coolers still have the thermostat spring inside?
That brake fluid looks normal. If your brakes are wet, then they will feel a bit funny. Go into an automatic car wash and you will know what I mean. It should dry pretty quickly, though. I never have any issues in the rain save for some occasional brake noise(normal with semi-metallic pads).
Thanks, I just noticed in my experience, in esp in colder weathers the temp needle can still lean on the low end with a 30 min warm up near zero weather temperature. Not sure if I have an oil temp gauge. My car is mostly stock. It usually takes between 10-15 min to warm up. The video link I posted is not my car. Not sure if they have the spring. I have to double check my brake fluid oil. Last time I checked it was close to a light brownish color. Don't remember having it changed ever, just filled when it was a little low like 5 years ago. I will have to have the brakes checked in the past but I think there is something funky with the brakes.
One more thing which sucks. My heater/AC climate control system at the moment. Ugh, the dial I have to get lucky turning it real slow to switch temp functions. My mechanic says that thousands of dollars to fix and one has to open the dash. I had the the blower motor replaced by my insurance company with respect to another issue, long story but they didn't fix the dial issue which I mentioned. It took them a month. Thoughts? Does this cost alot to fix?
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 11-11-2018 at 03:14 PM.
Thanks, I just noticed in my experience, in esp in colder weathers the temp needle can still lean on the low end with a 30 min warm up near zero weather temperature. Not sure if I have an oil temp gauge. My car is mostly stock. It usually takes between 10-15 min to warm up. The video link I posted is not my car. Not sure if they have the spring. I have to double check my brake fluid oil. Last time I checked it was close to a light brownish color. Don't remember having it changed ever, just filled when it was a little low like 5 years ago. I will have to have the brakes checked in the past but I think there is something funky with the brakes.
One more thing which sucks. My heater/AC climate control system at the moment. Ugh, the dial I have to get lucky turning it real slow to switch temp functions. My mechanic says that thousands of dollars to fix and one has to open the dash. I had the the blower motor replaced by my insurance company with respect to another issue, long story but they didn't fix the dial issue which I mentioned. It took them a month. Thoughts? Does this cost alot to fix?
The oil temp is addressed towards Steve Dallas. Stock cars don't come with oil temp gauges. S1 only has an oil pressure idiot light gauge.
The brake fluid should be done every 2 or 3 years. It absorbs water over time and gets less effective over time.
As for the AC control, I believe there are threads here that teach you how to fix it. Worst comes to worst, you just replace the control unit with one from a wrecked car that that shouldn't cost too much. I am starting to question the legitimacy of your mechanic if they think this costs $1000+ to fix...
The oil temp is addressed towards Steve Dallas. Stock cars don't come with oil temp gauges. S1 only has an oil pressure idiot light gauge.
The brake fluid should be done every 2 or 3 years. It absorbs water over time and gets less effective over time.
As for the AC control, I believe there are threads here that teach you how to fix it. Worst comes to worst, you just replace the control unit with one from a wrecked car that that shouldn't cost too much. I am starting to question the legitimacy of your mechanic if they think this costs $1000+ to fix...
Thanks, the next time I will have my oil changed I will have the brake fluid changed. I think with regard to the A/C issue he wasn't sure how the control climate area I believe is removed for my car. Hence the dash removal. But I will look around for the video. I saw another one online showing its the wire which comes out from the back of the dial but with a different car.
I hate that oil pressure gauge, pretty much tells one nothing. I wonder with having a digital temperature sensor for the oil, can it additionally tell you if the oil is low, instead of checking the dipstick? Also one more thing your right I dont really care for my mechanic much either as he is very lazy and not very friendly. Hard to find a rotary mechanic, this guy is a friend of the family for years which is why I end up going to him sometimes. But over the last few years I try not to. I have made an effort to go to the commercial shops or even the dealership but for little things. Last time I saw him I asked him to check the coils, wires and spark plugs. He's like when did you last have them changed, I was like 2-3 years ago. He's like your fine. Still I feel there is no harm in checking.
I do not have an oil temp gauge in my car, but I have driven several race prepped 8s that have had gauges with oil cooler thermostats in place. It takes roughly twice as long for the oil to reach operating temp (180F) as it does the coolant.
Mazdafan: it is good that your brake fluid looks good in the reservoir, but its condition in the calipers and lines is what matters--where it is the oldest.
I hate that oil pressure gauge, pretty much tells one nothing. I wonder with having a digital temperature sensor for the oil, can it additionally tell you if the oil is low, instead of checking the dipstick? Also one more thing your right I dont really care for my mechanic much either as he is very lazy and not very friendly. Hard to find a rotary mechanic, this guy is a friend of the family for years which is why I end up going to him sometimes. But over the last few years I try not to. I have made an effort to go to the commercial shops or even the dealership but for little things. Last time I saw him I asked him to check the coils, wires and spark plugs. He's like when did you last have them changed, I was like 2-3 years ago. He's like your fine. Still I feel there is no harm in checking.
You can get an oil pressure gauge hooked up. Oil pressure is somewhat related to your engine oil level, but the most reliable way is still to check it every other time you fill up.
As for the coils, I don't blame him if he doesn't know anything about rotary engines. Early RX-8 coils were cheap crap and it doesn't help that rotary engine coils work twice as hard as a piston engine coil.
On most piston cars, it is truly a lifetime item that doesn't require replacement unless it's broken.
I do not have an oil temp gauge in my car, but I have driven several race prepped 8s that have had gauges with oil cooler thermostats in place. It takes roughly twice as long for the oil to reach operating temp (180F) as it does the coolant.
Mazdafan: it is good that your brake fluid looks good in the reservoir, but its condition in the calipers and lines is what matters--where it is the oldest.
Will look into it. Thanks.
Originally Posted by UnknownJinX
You can get an oil pressure gauge hooked up. Oil pressure is somewhat related to your engine oil level, but the most reliable way is still to check it every other time you fill up.
As for the coils, I don't blame him if he doesn't know anything about rotary engines. Early RX-8 coils were cheap crap and it doesn't help that rotary engine coils work twice as hard as a piston engine coil.
On most piston cars, it is truly a lifetime item that doesn't require replacement unless it's broken.
Yeah I remember replacing the coils a while back at least 2 years ago but I'll have to check that too. And I keep a look out for the oil level. I just know after driving it so long when its low on oil. It has a rougher idle but I will look into the oil pressure gauge too.
A new issue, please respond guys. SO I already know that the Rx-8 was NOT build for the snow and one could buy snow tires. But I was leaving work tonight and the weirdest thing happened. I was driving very slow and I came to a full stop and waited in traffic and I heard this rubbing sound. It sound like it was coming from the rear of the car. Like only when stationary, the car was making this sound and while the car was at a deadstop it was slightly spinning sideways. I had no idea what it was. The brakes? The pads? What the hell would cause the car to make that sound and slightly want to spin? Misalignment? Please let me know what you guys think asap!
A new issue, please respond guys. SO I already know that the Rx-8 was NOT build for the snow and one could buy snow tires. But I was leaving work tonight and the weirdest thing happened. I was driving very slow and I came to a full stop and waited in traffic and I heard this rubbing sound. It sound like it was coming from the rear of the car. Like only when stationary, the car was making this sound and while the car was at a deadstop it was slightly spinning sideways. I had no idea what it was. The brakes? The pads? What the hell would cause the car to make that sound and slightly want to spin? Misalignment? Please let me know what you guys think asap!
Thanks!
Did this happen more than once?
Did you try pressing the brake pedal more and less? If so, did anything change?
Your car might have been sitting on a patch of ice and just sliding sideways on it.
Did you try pressing the brake pedal more and less? If so, did anything change?
Your car might have been sitting on a patch of ice and just sliding sideways on it.
Yes this happened more than once when I was driving in the moment but not before today. I tired pressing the break lightly as it was snowy and icy. Yes you could be right as there was ice. Also snow may have gotten in the back rear tire and compacted. Idk... scared the heck out of me.
I was thinking that too. I recently had my car worked on so maybe the DSC got reset. I will have to check that tomorrow but usually if its off it shows it with a yellow sign highlight dsc off.
Please look at the dash pic I posted above, This is what comes up when I put the key in on the "ON" position, after the quick system check. Note it goes away after I actually turn on the car and start it. It has the power steering wheel light and the engine light. The dealership when I called mentioned that the battery light and the oil light should come on. Also they mentioned that running a scan if no lights stay on AFTER starting can mess with the car's computer. Thoughts???
I recently had the blower replaced and the TCS/DSC Light was on when I turned it to the on position. Since I reset that system by turning the wheel all the way to the left, then to the right its back on. So I am thinking that the engine light screen the power steering wheel light and the engine light should not be coming on, even if when I turn it over and they disappear no?
My mechanic says brake fluid never goes bad. What do you guys think about that?
Basically what IamFodi said.
Brake fluid is hydrophilic so it will absorb water over time, which makes it corrosive to the components in the braking system and also lowers the boiling point, so yeah it will have to be replaced every 2 years(per Owner's Manual) regardless of mileage.
If a mechanic says this to me, you know who I am not going to ever again. This is the kinda stuff casual DIYers should know and is literally written in the Owner's Manual.
Originally Posted by mazdafan1892
This is the latest...
Dash Pic
Please look at the dash pic I posted above, This is what comes up when I put the key in on the "ON" position, after the quick system check. Note it goes away after I actually turn on the car and start it. It has the power steering wheel light and the engine light. The dealership when I called mentioned that the battery light and the oil light should come on. Also they mentioned that running a scan if no lights stay on AFTER starting can mess with the car's computer. Thoughts???
I recently had the blower replaced and the TCS/DSC Light was on when I turned it to the on position. Since I reset that system by turning the wheel all the way to the left, then to the right its back on. So I am thinking that the engine light screen the power steering wheel light and the engine light should not be coming on, even if when I turn it over and they disappear no?
I don't see anything wrong in the picture.
Hot plugging/unplugging an OBD2 device can cause a CEL for "instrument gauge communication lost" or something like that(clear it and it will disappear), and that's about it.
Brake fluid is hydrophilic so it will absorb water over time, which makes it corrosive to the components in the braking system and also lowers the boiling point, so yeah it will have to be replaced every 2 years(per Owner's Manual) regardless of mileage.
If a mechanic says this to me, you know who I am not going to ever again. This is the kinda stuff casual DIYers should know and is literally written in the Owner's Manual.
I don't see anything wrong in the picture.
Hot plugging/unplugging an OBD2 device can cause a CEL for "instrument gauge communication lost" or something like that(clear it and it will disappear), and that's about it.
Hi so I didn't discount your comment. I am agreeing with you, which is why I am going to change it regardless to stay ahead and ontop of things. Also I am not an expert. I also asked other people I know and they confirmed it should be fine they said but the elements in the brake fluid which prevents corrosion with decay over time. Idk about the power sterring light being on. No brake light but I could have sworn I saw it on this morning. Meh, I will check it regardless.
Hi so I didn't discount your comment. I am agreeing with you, which is why I am going to change it regardless to stay ahead and ontop of things. Also I am not an expert. I also asked other people I know and they confirmed it should be fine they said but the elements in the brake fluid which prevents corrosion with decay over time. Idk about the power sterring light being on. No brake light but I could have sworn I saw it on this morning. Meh, I will check it regardless.
If you are curious, this is a handy tool to use to check the fluid. Just be careful to not get any fluid on the paint.
Power steering light will be on when the engine is off. That's why the steering wheel feels so hard to turn when the engine is off.
The brake light is for the parking brake. Not sure about you, but most people with AT are more casual about it since P holds the car in place pretty well for the most part, so you could just have not pulled the parking brake at times. In an MT, it's much more needed since there is no P gear and leaving the car in 1 or R isn't as reliable.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 11-17-2018 at 04:48 PM.
11-11-2018, 10:48 AM
