Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
11-13-2017, 10:23 PM
#6676
Hello Gents!
I'm sorry for being a total newb but as much as I searched and I couldn't find an answer, all my searching found is how to do it and not what to get.
I'm looking to replace the coils and i want to know which should i get? Prices seem to vary widely from 40 bux to 240 for new sets and I'm having a hard time telling the difference between them, when they all say OEM. If I buy a 40 dollar set from amazon will I be buying a stinky piece of **** that will fail in under 1k? Will I be getting ripped off if I get the 240 set? I know the plugs should be NGK but im at a loss for what the coils should be.
Thank's for all your help!
I'm sorry for being a total newb but as much as I searched and I couldn't find an answer, all my searching found is how to do it and not what to get.
I'm looking to replace the coils and i want to know which should i get? Prices seem to vary widely from 40 bux to 240 for new sets and I'm having a hard time telling the difference between them, when they all say OEM. If I buy a 40 dollar set from amazon will I be buying a stinky piece of **** that will fail in under 1k? Will I be getting ripped off if I get the 240 set? I know the plugs should be NGK but im at a loss for what the coils should be.
Thank's for all your help!
11-13-2017, 10:48 PM
#6677
Smoking turbo yay
So i just wanna do a rundown of what i should do sorry if this is annoying but i just need a solid answer. I will go through everything quick. I installed the secondary air flow pump a week ago because my CEL was on for it could that have effected my cat from blowing build up into it im not sure how it works exactly i know its for heating up the cat? in the cold? But my dilemma is i have to store this car for the winter do i need to fix it now (will it get worse if i let it sit winter) or can i store it then fix it during the summer because i have no where to work on it except in the driveway outside and its already -10. Just need some answers on what i should do because i need to sell my 8 and if i take it to the dealer i may as well junk it.
If you don't drive it, then you can leave it.
Hello Gents!
I'm sorry for being a total newb but as much as I searched and I couldn't find an answer, all my searching found is how to do it and not what to get.
I'm looking to replace the coils and i want to know which should i get? Prices seem to vary widely from 40 bux to 240 for new sets and I'm having a hard time telling the difference between them, when they all say OEM. If I buy a 40 dollar set from amazon will I be buying a stinky piece of **** that will fail in under 1k? Will I be getting ripped off if I get the 240 set? I know the plugs should be NGK but im at a loss for what the coils should be.
Thank's for all your help!
I'm sorry for being a total newb but as much as I searched and I couldn't find an answer, all my searching found is how to do it and not what to get.
I'm looking to replace the coils and i want to know which should i get? Prices seem to vary widely from 40 bux to 240 for new sets and I'm having a hard time telling the difference between them, when they all say OEM. If I buy a 40 dollar set from amazon will I be buying a stinky piece of **** that will fail in under 1k? Will I be getting ripped off if I get the 240 set? I know the plugs should be NGK but im at a loss for what the coils should be.
Thank's for all your help!
You have a number of options for coils:
-The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Pep Boys, Autozone. These ARE OEM coils, just being sold to auto parts stores directly from the original manufacturer. This is common for virtually every OEM part for any car older than about 5 years old. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, and usually shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils. Advance Auto Parts online here: BWD/Intermotor Ignition Coil. The the top bar of the page for the current promotional offer.
-The Best Upgrade: The BHR Ignition System upgrade can be had for $500 (shipping is free within the US), which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for slight mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. BHR reports less than a 1% failure rate on their kit, and it's prized so highly that even used kits sell for about 80% of original retail. In many years of sale, no owner has reported reaching a lifespan limitation on the coils. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80). Purchase here: BHR Ignition System
-The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for $250, Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last. If you are having trouble getting other coil options where you live, or are wary about purchasing coils from other sources, then this is your cheapest option for coils straight out of the Mazda dealer parts network. Mazmart also offers ignition sets, where you can purchase all 12 components together in one click. Purchase here: Mazmart: RX-8 Ignition
-The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. Yes, we see those numbers quoted all the time. You may not get the latest coil revision, and it is unlikely that the dealer or techs will be able to tell you what coil revision you have. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
-The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired most of the time. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some legitimate vendors do sell coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
-The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Pep Boys, Autozone. These ARE OEM coils, just being sold to auto parts stores directly from the original manufacturer. This is common for virtually every OEM part for any car older than about 5 years old. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, and usually shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils. Advance Auto Parts online here: BWD/Intermotor Ignition Coil. The the top bar of the page for the current promotional offer.
-The Best Upgrade: The BHR Ignition System upgrade can be had for $500 (shipping is free within the US), which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for slight mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. BHR reports less than a 1% failure rate on their kit, and it's prized so highly that even used kits sell for about 80% of original retail. In many years of sale, no owner has reported reaching a lifespan limitation on the coils. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80). Purchase here: BHR Ignition System
-The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for $250, Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last. If you are having trouble getting other coil options where you live, or are wary about purchasing coils from other sources, then this is your cheapest option for coils straight out of the Mazda dealer parts network. Mazmart also offers ignition sets, where you can purchase all 12 components together in one click. Purchase here: Mazmart: RX-8 Ignition
-The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. Yes, we see those numbers quoted all the time. You may not get the latest coil revision, and it is unlikely that the dealer or techs will be able to tell you what coil revision you have. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
-The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired most of the time. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some legitimate vendors do sell coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 11-13-2017 at 10:54 PM. Reason: Added the links
The following 2 users liked this post by UnknownJinX:
Kamal El (11-27-2017),
skyhighclaw (11-13-2017)
11-14-2017, 07:34 AM
#6678
40th anniversary Edition
the rest of that coil options list:
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
Another high-end option: SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit
If you plan on keeping the car for years, I recommend the BHR kit (coils and wires). They are proven to be really lifetime. Mine are working flawlessly after eight straight years of use. If your budget can bear it, they are the ones to get. If not, go for the first option in list above posted by UnknownJinx.
________________________________________
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
Another high-end option: SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit
If you plan on keeping the car for years, I recommend the BHR kit (coils and wires). They are proven to be really lifetime. Mine are working flawlessly after eight straight years of use. If your budget can bear it, they are the ones to get. If not, go for the first option in list above posted by UnknownJinx.
________________________________________
Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-14-2017 at 07:42 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Kamal El (11-27-2017)
11-27-2017, 07:46 PM
#6679
Hi,
I want to install the 05 Shinka LSD with DSC on my 04 sport. What would that entail? Links appreciated.
TY
I want to install the 05 Shinka LSD with DSC on my 04 sport. What would that entail? Links appreciated.
TY
Last edited by Kamal El; 11-27-2017 at 10:56 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Kamal El (11-27-2017)
11-27-2017, 10:54 PM
#6681
The following users liked this post:
Reoze (11-28-2017)
11-29-2017, 10:47 AM
#6684
Need to get brakes done again, currently at 160k.
From the talk on here it's supposed to be cheap and easy, dealer is out of the question since its a rip off. My question is where should I go or how to go about it. Last time I did it through kijiji they probably over charged me and even made a stupid mistake which made some weird noise that I had to get fixed (was only a noise issue). I'm in Canada, Richmond hill just north of Toronto.
Also, I was told my brakes were at about 3 mm just recently so I should get this done soon, work is 9 km away from me which I do every day.
My other issue when I was told they need to get done I wasn't sensible enough to ask if it was front or rear, is there a way I can visibly determine that myself? When I got the brakes done at 80k, I did both front and rear so it's reasonable to assume both I think.
Sorry for the stupid questions. Thanks
From the talk on here it's supposed to be cheap and easy, dealer is out of the question since its a rip off. My question is where should I go or how to go about it. Last time I did it through kijiji they probably over charged me and even made a stupid mistake which made some weird noise that I had to get fixed (was only a noise issue). I'm in Canada, Richmond hill just north of Toronto.
Also, I was told my brakes were at about 3 mm just recently so I should get this done soon, work is 9 km away from me which I do every day.
My other issue when I was told they need to get done I wasn't sensible enough to ask if it was front or rear, is there a way I can visibly determine that myself? When I got the brakes done at 80k, I did both front and rear so it's reasonable to assume both I think.
Sorry for the stupid questions. Thanks
11-29-2017, 01:28 PM
#6685
Registered
I would call around and find a local shop to do it. Firestone wanted to charge me $1100 to put my own rotors and brakes on my car. Goodyear wouldn't use anything except their own parts. A random local hole in the wall shop charged me $100/axle which isn't the best deal in the world but a few orders of magnitude better than I got from any of the chain stores. If you're buying the parts from them, it should be significantly easier.
The fronts will often wear faster than the rears but if you've got 80k on your pads, i'd replace the whole set, and the rotors. Not just one side.
The fronts will often wear faster than the rears but if you've got 80k on your pads, i'd replace the whole set, and the rotors. Not just one side.
12-03-2017, 06:30 AM
#6687
My dealer $440. for pads.
I bought Centric Ceramic for approx $55, $6 winding tool, and $7 piston pusher.
Pretty easy, and I got rid of that instant bite, since I'm not testing it on track anymore.
I bought Centric Ceramic for approx $55, $6 winding tool, and $7 piston pusher.
Pretty easy, and I got rid of that instant bite, since I'm not testing it on track anymore.
12-06-2017, 11:34 AM
#6688
SPOOLN8
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 2,225
Received 208 Likes
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Need to get brakes done again, currently at 160k.
From the talk on here it's supposed to be cheap and easy, dealer is out of the question since its a rip off. My question is where should I go or how to go about it. Last time I did it through kijiji they probably over charged me and even made a stupid mistake which made some weird noise that I had to get fixed (was only a noise issue). I'm in Canada, Richmond hill just north of Toronto.
Also, I was told my brakes were at about 3 mm just recently so I should get this done soon, work is 9 km away from me which I do every day.
My other issue when I was told they need to get done I wasn't sensible enough to ask if it was front or rear, is there a way I can visibly determine that myself? When I got the brakes done at 80k, I did both front and rear so it's reasonable to assume both I think.
Sorry for the stupid questions. Thanks
From the talk on here it's supposed to be cheap and easy, dealer is out of the question since its a rip off. My question is where should I go or how to go about it. Last time I did it through kijiji they probably over charged me and even made a stupid mistake which made some weird noise that I had to get fixed (was only a noise issue). I'm in Canada, Richmond hill just north of Toronto.
Also, I was told my brakes were at about 3 mm just recently so I should get this done soon, work is 9 km away from me which I do every day.
My other issue when I was told they need to get done I wasn't sensible enough to ask if it was front or rear, is there a way I can visibly determine that myself? When I got the brakes done at 80k, I did both front and rear so it's reasonable to assume both I think.
Sorry for the stupid questions. Thanks
12-10-2017, 09:14 PM
#6689
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
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Just joined here, I recently bought an rx8 but i have little knowledge on it. I don’t know anybody in my city that owns an rx8 so hopefully you all can help answer my question.
12-11-2017, 12:57 AM
#6690
Smoking turbo yay
Can you post up the year, trim and transmission of the car?
Start by reading the New Owner sticky we have, or rx8help.com
They should answer most of the FAQs.
Feel free to ask here.
12-11-2017, 12:39 PM
#6691
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
12-11-2017, 07:28 PM
#6692
40th anniversary Edition
Welcome
New Owners Thread. Read this thoroughly first, and then ask your questions.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
New Owners Thread. Read this thoroughly first, and then ask your questions.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
The following users liked this post:
StealthTL (12-11-2017)
12-26-2017, 01:19 PM
#6693
Hello Again!
Requesting the fellow rotary gods for assistance, I'm pretty sure its simple but for for the life of me i can't seem to find a answer through googling,
The key that's attached to my keyless entry fob no longer starts the car. When i bought my car, it was able to start the car however it slightly broken and using that key risked it breaking off and getting stuck in the ignition. a little while ago i opened the top part off and used JB weld to secure the key in place, and now that its secure in place it no longer starts the car, so im still using my backup key to start the car.
I've only opened the top portion of the key and looking it seems spring loaded and no electronics in there, am i missing something? Could the keyfob need reprogramming anyway even though it still unlocks my door through keyless entry? What am i missing here?
Thanks in advance for any advice
Requesting the fellow rotary gods for assistance, I'm pretty sure its simple but for for the life of me i can't seem to find a answer through googling,
The key that's attached to my keyless entry fob no longer starts the car. When i bought my car, it was able to start the car however it slightly broken and using that key risked it breaking off and getting stuck in the ignition. a little while ago i opened the top part off and used JB weld to secure the key in place, and now that its secure in place it no longer starts the car, so im still using my backup key to start the car.
I've only opened the top portion of the key and looking it seems spring loaded and no electronics in there, am i missing something? Could the keyfob need reprogramming anyway even though it still unlocks my door through keyless entry? What am i missing here?
Thanks in advance for any advice
12-26-2017, 01:21 PM
#6694
Hello Again!
Requesting the fellow rotary gods for assistance, I'm pretty sure its simple but for for the life of me i can't seem to find a answer through googling,
The key that's attached to my keyless entry fob no longer starts the car. When i bought my car, it was able to start the car however it slightly broken and using that key risked it breaking off and getting stuck in the ignition. a little while ago i opened the top part off and used JB weld to secure the key in place, and now that its secure in place it no longer starts the car, so im still using my backup key to start the car.
I've only opened the top portion of the key and looking it seems spring loaded and no electronics in there, am i missing something? Could the keyfob need reprogramming anyway even though it still unlocks my door through keyless entry? What am i missing here?
Thanks in advance for any advice
Requesting the fellow rotary gods for assistance, I'm pretty sure its simple but for for the life of me i can't seem to find a answer through googling,
The key that's attached to my keyless entry fob no longer starts the car. When i bought my car, it was able to start the car however it slightly broken and using that key risked it breaking off and getting stuck in the ignition. a little while ago i opened the top part off and used JB weld to secure the key in place, and now that its secure in place it no longer starts the car, so im still using my backup key to start the car.
I've only opened the top portion of the key and looking it seems spring loaded and no electronics in there, am i missing something? Could the keyfob need reprogramming anyway even though it still unlocks my door through keyless entry? What am i missing here?
Thanks in advance for any advice
12-26-2017, 07:26 PM
#6695
I dont know what is going on. I recently replaced the engine mounts. The dealer said they were messed up. They looked okay after my mechanic replaced them. But recently right before I replaced them I heard my engine bay area going crazy. I think it still sounds funny. What does the compressor have to do with the heating system? I dont know if its the heat being left on for a while more than 20 min or the compressor but I hear like funny sounds or such coming from the engine bay. The engine is like 1.5 years old. I had so many things replaced. I dont know what it is. The other day I felt like I was going to shut off at the light. The battery is like 3 months old. No codes, idk. My inspection is next month, I'll ask him to check coils, spark plugs and wires.
12-27-2017, 03:05 AM
#6696
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Washington state
Posts: 12
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0 Posts
plans.
Hello first post and its gonna be filled with dumb questions.
I have an 07 black rx8 the vin on this website comes up as gt but the door panel says touring. Theres no wing but its all leather with sunroof, heated seats, power drivers seat, and the Bose sound system. I'm genuinely confused on this.
My engine is starting to go out. I'm still driving it but if it gets warm its not starting back up when I shut off and is most likely compression(according to the dealer). They quoted my 8k (lmao) for a rebuild saying that Mazda doesn't do remans which I didn't care because I had ressurection, bhr, or pineapple in my mind already. Sadly I won't be able to get this all done as fast as I thought because I got accepted to my first choice college and only need Two more years to get my bachelors so I wanna plan it out and get it done right which is why these questions are going to be dumb.
I want a rx8performance turbo kit with 350-390 whp. They claim that that's reachable and even reliable but I feel like theres a lot of things I have to consider too.
Biggest issue to tranny for me right now. Would it be better to swap for the 5 speed or start fresh on an s2 or r3. I've read both are stronger but generally which would you guys prefer. Also is it just a drop in swap for the 5 speed? That's what it seems like to me but I'm not sure.
When I contacted ressurection about rebuilding I mention porting it and he said that it doesn't do anything for the car. Does this hold true for FI? I know a lot of people go with porting for reliability but again not 100%sure.
Also apex seals. Some people seem to be modifying it so they can hold bigger seals. Would you guys do this? What brand of seals would be most recommended for FI?
Lastly sohn adapters. Do they need to be pressurized to work on both FI and NA. It doesn't seem like a **** idea to me as a just in case but what do you guys think.
Although my experience with rx8s is **** (1y 3 month, ~25k miles) I can't get over the car. Its tearing me apart Lisa. One moment I'm all in for FI, then its Ls swap, then its fix it and sell it for an evo or s2k but I always come back to FI. LEAD ME ON THE RIGHT PATH.
I have an 07 black rx8 the vin on this website comes up as gt but the door panel says touring. Theres no wing but its all leather with sunroof, heated seats, power drivers seat, and the Bose sound system. I'm genuinely confused on this.
My engine is starting to go out. I'm still driving it but if it gets warm its not starting back up when I shut off and is most likely compression(according to the dealer). They quoted my 8k (lmao) for a rebuild saying that Mazda doesn't do remans which I didn't care because I had ressurection, bhr, or pineapple in my mind already. Sadly I won't be able to get this all done as fast as I thought because I got accepted to my first choice college and only need Two more years to get my bachelors so I wanna plan it out and get it done right which is why these questions are going to be dumb.
I want a rx8performance turbo kit with 350-390 whp. They claim that that's reachable and even reliable but I feel like theres a lot of things I have to consider too.
Biggest issue to tranny for me right now. Would it be better to swap for the 5 speed or start fresh on an s2 or r3. I've read both are stronger but generally which would you guys prefer. Also is it just a drop in swap for the 5 speed? That's what it seems like to me but I'm not sure.
When I contacted ressurection about rebuilding I mention porting it and he said that it doesn't do anything for the car. Does this hold true for FI? I know a lot of people go with porting for reliability but again not 100%sure.
Also apex seals. Some people seem to be modifying it so they can hold bigger seals. Would you guys do this? What brand of seals would be most recommended for FI?
Lastly sohn adapters. Do they need to be pressurized to work on both FI and NA. It doesn't seem like a **** idea to me as a just in case but what do you guys think.
Although my experience with rx8s is **** (1y 3 month, ~25k miles) I can't get over the car. Its tearing me apart Lisa. One moment I'm all in for FI, then its Ls swap, then its fix it and sell it for an evo or s2k but I always come back to FI. LEAD ME ON THE RIGHT PATH.
12-27-2017, 10:02 AM
#6697
I dont know what is going on. I recently replaced the engine mounts. The dealer said they were messed up. They looked okay after my mechanic replaced them. But recently right before I replaced them I heard my engine bay area going crazy. I think it still sounds funny. What does the compressor have to do with the heating system? I dont know if its the heat being left on for a while more than 20 min or the compressor but I hear like funny sounds or such coming from the engine bay. The engine is like 1.5 years old. I had so many things replaced. I dont know what it is. The other day I felt like I was going to shut off at the light. The battery is like 3 months old. No codes, idk. My inspection is next month, I'll ask him to check coils, spark plugs and wires.
12-27-2017, 10:14 AM
#6698
Hello first post and its gonna be filled with dumb questions.
I have an 07 black rx8 the vin on this website comes up as gt but the door panel says touring. Theres no wing but its all leather with sunroof, heated seats, power drivers seat, and the Bose sound system. I'm genuinely confused on this.
My engine is starting to go out. I'm still driving it but if it gets warm its not starting back up when I shut off and is most likely compression(according to the dealer). They quoted my 8k (lmao) for a rebuild saying that Mazda doesn't do remans which I didn't care because I had ressurection, bhr, or pineapple in my mind already. Sadly I won't be able to get this all done as fast as I thought because I got accepted to my first choice college and only need Two more years to get my bachelors so I wanna plan it out and get it done right which is why these questions are going to be dumb.
I want a rx8performance turbo kit with 350-390 whp. They claim that that's reachable and even reliable but I feel like theres a lot of things I have to consider too.
Biggest issue to tranny for me right now. Would it be better to swap for the 5 speed or start fresh on an s2 or r3. I've read both are stronger but generally which would you guys prefer. Also is it just a drop in swap for the 5 speed? That's what it seems like to me but I'm not sure.
When I contacted ressurection about rebuilding I mention porting it and he said that it doesn't do anything for the car. Does this hold true for FI? I know a lot of people go with porting for reliability but again not 100%sure.
Also apex seals. Some people seem to be modifying it so they can hold bigger seals. Would you guys do this? What brand of seals would be most recommended for FI?
Lastly sohn adapters. Do they need to be pressurized to work on both FI and NA. It doesn't seem like a **** idea to me as a just in case but what do you guys think.
Although my experience with rx8s is **** (1y 3 month, ~25k miles) I can't get over the car. Its tearing me apart Lisa. One moment I'm all in for FI, then its Ls swap, then its fix it and sell it for an evo or s2k but I always come back to FI. LEAD ME ON THE RIGHT PATH.
I have an 07 black rx8 the vin on this website comes up as gt but the door panel says touring. Theres no wing but its all leather with sunroof, heated seats, power drivers seat, and the Bose sound system. I'm genuinely confused on this.
My engine is starting to go out. I'm still driving it but if it gets warm its not starting back up when I shut off and is most likely compression(according to the dealer). They quoted my 8k (lmao) for a rebuild saying that Mazda doesn't do remans which I didn't care because I had ressurection, bhr, or pineapple in my mind already. Sadly I won't be able to get this all done as fast as I thought because I got accepted to my first choice college and only need Two more years to get my bachelors so I wanna plan it out and get it done right which is why these questions are going to be dumb.
I want a rx8performance turbo kit with 350-390 whp. They claim that that's reachable and even reliable but I feel like theres a lot of things I have to consider too.
Biggest issue to tranny for me right now. Would it be better to swap for the 5 speed or start fresh on an s2 or r3. I've read both are stronger but generally which would you guys prefer. Also is it just a drop in swap for the 5 speed? That's what it seems like to me but I'm not sure.
When I contacted ressurection about rebuilding I mention porting it and he said that it doesn't do anything for the car. Does this hold true for FI? I know a lot of people go with porting for reliability but again not 100%sure.
Also apex seals. Some people seem to be modifying it so they can hold bigger seals. Would you guys do this? What brand of seals would be most recommended for FI?
Lastly sohn adapters. Do they need to be pressurized to work on both FI and NA. It doesn't seem like a **** idea to me as a just in case but what do you guys think.
Although my experience with rx8s is **** (1y 3 month, ~25k miles) I can't get over the car. Its tearing me apart Lisa. One moment I'm all in for FI, then its Ls swap, then its fix it and sell it for an evo or s2k but I always come back to FI. LEAD ME ON THE RIGHT PATH.
Don't even fix it, you won't get your money back. Sell it as is an buy one that runs, or another car capable of 390whp without $15k in work while you're in college.
12-27-2017, 01:03 PM
#6699
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How much would a non working rx8 be worth? Would it not be cheaper to rebuild the car and drive it for another 80k miles instead of getting something else?
12-27-2017, 02:18 PM
#6700
Water Foul
^ A high horsepower turbo Renesis that is reliable is a pipe dream. 10K miles is probably typical at the HP you mentioned. Somewhere between 250 and 280WHP is a much more reasonable goal. A turbo project is going to cost you $10 to $15K to do it right. Study comments made by people who turbo'd their 8s a few years back. Most of them seem to regret having spent the money and time.
You can buy a Mazda Reman for around $3K, if you shop around. Based on a couple of recent samples, they are pretty well-made, with a lot of new parts inside.
A roller with a bad engine is worth $500 to $2K, depending on year and condition.
You can buy a Mazda Reman for around $3K, if you shop around. Based on a couple of recent samples, they are pretty well-made, with a lot of new parts inside.
A roller with a bad engine is worth $500 to $2K, depending on year and condition.