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Yeah that post was confusing, I thought I specifically mentioned the Takata recall right off the bat. My mistake.
Unfortunately there's 3 dealerships in the city that are all run by the same company. I purposely called up the one on the opposite side of the city to schedule my recall and ended up getting the same service tech as the first time I went. I wasn't even going to bother at that point.
I suppose I could see how the San Antonio ones are.
I recently purchased an oil catch can, and was wondering will the orientation or the can matter? I have a spot open where I can put the can in horizontally instead of vertically.
Could you get away with it? Possibly. But you want the inlet and the outlet to be as far away from the oil (bottom) as possible. This means, in 99.9% of cases, placing it vertically.
You'll need to mount so that the drain valve can be accessed.
They typically collect more water than oil, from condensation, and need draining weekly.
No good 'catching' if it just fills up and recycles!
Does anyone know the P/N for the 4 bolts that mount the AC Compressor to the motor? Or even the specs of the bolts? My engine builder never put them in and now my Compressor is just hanging around down there and that needs to be fixed ASAP. Thank you, much appreciated!
I also understand that they are just installing the exact same inflator with the same defect, with the hopes it will take awhile to start corroding, and there is no permanent fix.
My dealership told me the same thing. He said they install the same inflater and that it has a shelf life of 10-15 years. So in about 10 years we'll be getting another recall letter.
My dealership told me the same thing. He said they install the same inflater and that it has a shelf life of 10-15 years. So in about 10 years we'll be getting another recall letter.
I'm sure it's the same part, but that alone doesn't say the defect remains, does it?
IIRC, Ash posted it in the big recall thread. I think one of the letters they sent me states the same.
EDIT: It appears some recalls were performed as "Interim" and some as "Final". If your recall repair was the interim part, you will have to have it done again in around 6 years.
If you had an interim air bag inflator repair performed, the new inflator will not experience propellant degradation for at least six years (see propellant degradation time by Zone below). Before that time, you will receive another notice by first class mail from Mazda to bring in your vehicle for the permanent remedy inflator. In order to ensure you have the latest air bag inflator installed, please contact an authorized Mazda Dealer.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 06-19-2017 at 10:21 AM.
Do the apex seals wear away as the grind against the rotor housing and then progressively erode until they cannot provide the proper sealing??
Is it possible to ever recover compression stats? or is it something that is not curable unless the engine is re built?
Is low compression just an inevitable thing that will happen on a rotary?
Sorry i know that the questions are similar kind of phrased in different ways. But I want to understand the mechanics/physics behind how the compression gets lost.
Can't answer all your questions, but here are a few tidbits I've come across:
Originally Posted by Soldier
Is it possible to ever recover compression stats? or is it something that is not curable unless the engine is re built?
I've heard that carbon buildup can the apex seals stick when they're supposed to expand out against the rotor housings. That would cause low compression readings. If that were to happen, reducing that buildup -- e.g. through a de-carbonization treatment, or just hard use with good fuel and responsible oil changes -- might restore that lost compression.
Originally Posted by Soldier
Is low compression just an inevitable thing that will happen on a rotary?
Well yeah. It's inevitable on any engine. :]
Differences:
1. Rotaries don't deal with normal use and lax upkeep as well as piston engines do.
2. In a rotary engine, there's not much that can fail other than the apex seals and side seals, both of which affect compression. In a piston engine, there's a lot more that can fail and take it out of service but has nothing to do with compression (valvetrain, bottom end bearings, oil control rings, etc.). So, it's less common to hear about a piston engine being taken out of service due to poor compression, whereas low compression is the main reason a rotary engine is taken out of service.
I have a dumb question! Why do some cars with low compression start fine right after switching off, but not when left for 30 mins? Shouldn't the engine be cooler after 30 mins?
I have a dumb question! Why do some cars with low compression start fine right after switching off, but not when left for 30 mins? Shouldn't the engine be cooler after 30 mins?
That's not a super common one, but it's probably a matter of where the wear is.
If an engine has uniform Apex seal wear then as it heats up the housings will expand inward faster than the rotors expand outwards (since the housings are aluminum). So it might have higher compression hot than cold.
It could also be that the fuel pump is overheating and not preforming to spec after the engine is running for a while.
I have a dumb question! Why do some cars with low compression start fine right after switching off, but not when left for 30 mins? Shouldn't the engine be cooler after 30 mins?
The engine won't cool down uniformly, so without circulating coolant there might be some serious temperature differentials within 30 mins of shutoff. Maybe that's a factor.
I know a friend with a car that starts fine hot and cold, but say he drove around, stopped the car, and started it back up immediately, it'll start fine. But if he leaves it for 45 mins and start again, it's slow to start. If left for 3 hours, it starts up immediately.
I've watched videos on YouTube of rx8s that, when started immediately after shutting off, starts up perfectly fine. But if you leave it for 20-30 mins, it won't start. Leave it for an hour or two and start, it starts right back up!
If it's the fuel pump, won't it affect the startups that happen right after shutoff as well?
If it is compression related, I thought we gain compression progressively as the engine cools down.
Hello all!!
I am throwing my dumb but needed question in the flow...
If there is a thread or diagram with this info I would thank anyone who can direct me to them.
Would someone tell me the distance between the outermost strut bolts at the top of the strut tower?
I recently purchased an aftermarket upper strut bar. I received my 2004 RX-8 in a trade and it did not have a few parts. Today I received my bar but it appears to be nearly an inch too long. I have found some front damage behind the bumper so it is possible this dimension is damaged. I have had a bit of trouble finding measurements for some of the front dimensions.
I am holding off contacting the company until I can verify this measurement and make sure the issue is not my car having damage. Thanks to any help I can receive and a shout out to those who did the start here threads!! Adding to my shopping list!
(EDITI am looking for the distance between the right strut and the left strut; possibly the measurement from the outermost bolt on the top of the right strut to the outermost bolt on top of the left.
Last edited by GroovieGargoyle; 06-23-2017 at 10:38 PM.
Reason: Adding information
06-15-2017, 09:15 AM
I am looking for the distance between the right strut and the left strut; possibly the measurement from the outermost bolt on the top of the right strut to the outermost bolt on top of the left.