Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
08-07-2015, 02:55 PM
#5076
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
That should work, if the plug corresponding to the bad coil is not fouled.
Athough I don't think I've heard of changing one wire at a time.
That seems strange.
Athough I don't think I've heard of changing one wire at a time.
That seems strange.
08-07-2015, 03:07 PM
#5077
thanks for the info
08-07-2015, 03:11 PM
#5078
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I know some people don't have a place to do it though.
08-07-2015, 11:15 PM
#5079
So I finally got around to buying a SOHN adapter and am looking for potential oil tank install points. I was thinking of putting it where the airpump was but....
<pic removed because big>
...this thing is in my way. I got my 8 with no airpump installed, so I'm a complete noob in regards to what all it used as far as electrical. Is it safe to remove this? If not, can it be easily relocated?
<pic removed because big>
...this thing is in my way. I got my 8 with no airpump installed, so I'm a complete noob in regards to what all it used as far as electrical. Is it safe to remove this? If not, can it be easily relocated?
In my searching, I did find that the first few tanks of gas after the install should be premix, which I've already added in to the current tank (I haven't driven the car since completing the install, but I did run it until it was up to temp).Assuming I did everything right (followed the DIY perfectly aside from priming), will the air in the system work itself? I found a few threads stating to drive as normal for the rotary while running premix (planning to nail some curvy roads that equal high RPM fun tomorrow if I get positive feedback) but I wanted to confirm this won't be an issue.
EDIT: Disregard...took it for a 50 mile drive and it is pumping properly (thank Jeebus!)
Last edited by Andrew5190; 08-08-2015 at 09:54 AM. Reason: Results
08-08-2015, 10:47 AM
#5080
So...just asked my mechanic about maintenance and changing my transmission and differential oil. He said, if you change that you're gonna have major problems. And he said you need a piece of equipment worth thousands to do it. I was like wth? The manual says at 60,000mi one is suppose to do it. Then again he did tell me a while ago people expect you to know all car models. Any thoughts guys?
08-08-2015, 12:46 PM
#5081
So...just asked my mechanic about maintenance and changing my transmission and differential oil. He said, if you change that you're gonna have major problems. And he said you need a piece of equipment worth thousands to do it. I was like wth? The manual says at 60,000mi one is suppose to do it. Then again he did tell me a while ago people expect you to know all car models. Any thoughts guys?
08-08-2015, 01:54 PM
#5082
40th anniversary Edition
Mazdafan1892,
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________
Last edited by gwilliams6; 08-08-2015 at 01:58 PM.
08-08-2015, 06:47 PM
#5083
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New owner... is this normal during idle?
2009, 53K miles.
At idle, especially after driving a bit, I hear a single tick or click noise, followed by a slightly different sounding one about 5 seconds later, from what seems like the engine. Seems like something ticking on, then off. These two repeat every 10-15 seconds or so. It almost feels like there's a very slight change in idle strength between the two. Very subtle, but it's there.
Also at idle, I get something else that's very hard to describe. The closest thing I can come up with is like bass vibrations that seem to come at random and it feels like it's coming from under the car in a specific spot, not across the whole body. It's also kinda subtle and there's no noise associated, just feels like that part of the car someone grabbed onto and shook it a bit.
Other than that the car runs like a dream, no problems accelerating, no other strange noises or symptoms. Maybe it's just new owner paranoia, I just thought maybe this might be a known thing that's normal for the car.
If anyone knows what these could be put my mind at ease please!
At idle, especially after driving a bit, I hear a single tick or click noise, followed by a slightly different sounding one about 5 seconds later, from what seems like the engine. Seems like something ticking on, then off. These two repeat every 10-15 seconds or so. It almost feels like there's a very slight change in idle strength between the two. Very subtle, but it's there.
Also at idle, I get something else that's very hard to describe. The closest thing I can come up with is like bass vibrations that seem to come at random and it feels like it's coming from under the car in a specific spot, not across the whole body. It's also kinda subtle and there's no noise associated, just feels like that part of the car someone grabbed onto and shook it a bit.
Other than that the car runs like a dream, no problems accelerating, no other strange noises or symptoms. Maybe it's just new owner paranoia, I just thought maybe this might be a known thing that's normal for the car.
If anyone knows what these could be put my mind at ease please!
08-08-2015, 07:26 PM
#5084
The clicking noise you hear could be the a/c compressor cycling on and off. That is perfectly normal. The compressor adds strain to the engine, which changes the idle speed, which is the vibration you feel. Try turning off the a/c, does the noise go away?
08-08-2015, 09:42 PM
#5085
So...just asked my mechanic about maintenance and changing my transmission and differential oil. He said, if you change that you're gonna have major problems. And he said you need a piece of equipment worth thousands to do it. I was like wth? The manual says at 60,000mi one is suppose to do it. Then again he did tell me a while ago people expect you to know all car models. Any thoughts guys?
08-09-2015, 03:54 AM
#5086
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That seems to be it, thank you!
08-09-2015, 08:54 AM
#5087
Water Foul
So...just asked my mechanic about maintenance and changing my transmission and differential oil. He said, if you change that you're gonna have major problems. And he said you need a piece of equipment worth thousands to do it. I was like wth? The manual says at 60,000mi one is suppose to do it. Then again he did tell me a while ago people expect you to know all car models. Any thoughts guys?
The differential procedure is the same on both models, and it is dead simple. The manual transmission procedure is much the same. With a few simple tools, you can do both.
He might have a minor point on the auto transmission. The reason I say that is a machine is required to do it right, and some generic machines do not have the exact procedure for every make and model. My former mechanic ruined the transmission in my 2005 Acura TSX by using a generic machine--even though he used the genuine Honda fluid I supplied. Something similar happened to my mother's 2001 Honda Civic. My brother had the fluid in his 2008 Toyota Tacoma replaced by a local shop, and it did not shift right afterward. He took it back for a 2nd round, and it still shifted hard and slipped. He took it to a Toyota dealer for replacement, and it has been normal since then.
Because of those experiences, I always take my auto trans cars to the dealership for trans fluid replacement. I do a lot of my own maintenance, use a local shop or two for things I don't want to do myself, but use the dealership exclusively for trans fluid. The cost difference is cheap insurance.
08-09-2015, 04:14 PM
#5088
Auto or manual?
The differential procedure is the same on both models, and it is dead simple. The manual transmission procedure is much the same. With a few simple tools, you can do both.
He might have a minor point on the auto transmission. The reason I say that is a machine is required to do it right, and some generic machines do not have the exact procedure for every make and model. My former mechanic ruined the transmission in my 2005 Acura TSX by using a generic machine--even though he used the genuine Honda fluid I supplied. Something similar happened to my mother's 2001 Honda Civic. My brother had the fluid in his 2008 Toyota Tacoma replaced by a local shop, and it did not shift right afterward. He took it back for a 2nd round, and it still shifted hard and slipped. He took it to a Toyota dealer for replacement, and it has been normal since then.
Because of those experiences, I always take my auto trans cars to the dealership for trans fluid replacement. I do a lot of my own maintenance, use a local shop or two for things I don't want to do myself, but use the dealership exclusively for trans fluid. The cost difference is cheap insurance.
The differential procedure is the same on both models, and it is dead simple. The manual transmission procedure is much the same. With a few simple tools, you can do both.
He might have a minor point on the auto transmission. The reason I say that is a machine is required to do it right, and some generic machines do not have the exact procedure for every make and model. My former mechanic ruined the transmission in my 2005 Acura TSX by using a generic machine--even though he used the genuine Honda fluid I supplied. Something similar happened to my mother's 2001 Honda Civic. My brother had the fluid in his 2008 Toyota Tacoma replaced by a local shop, and it did not shift right afterward. He took it back for a 2nd round, and it still shifted hard and slipped. He took it to a Toyota dealer for replacement, and it has been normal since then.
Because of those experiences, I always take my auto trans cars to the dealership for trans fluid replacement. I do a lot of my own maintenance, use a local shop or two for things I don't want to do myself, but use the dealership exclusively for trans fluid. The cost difference is cheap insurance.
08-09-2015, 05:21 PM
#5089
Hello, MazdaFan1892.
You can check the regional subforums here on the club, you might find a mechanic in your city that has rotary experience.
I have an Optima Red Top that I bought on Amazon. It is a beast, the car starts immediately, every time. Hot, cold, whatever. Its not cheap, but I like the car so I splurged.
This is going to sound strange, but make sure you check the Cold Crank Amps on the battery. You want at least 640. Some of the cars originally shipped with a smaller battery, if I recall correctly, it was the Miata battery. Later on, Mazda realized they had a problem starting, so they installed higher rate starters and replaced the smaller batteries. I have a 2005, and it was running the smaller size battery. I had replaced it a few times (at Walmart), but they kept using the wrong size. Eventually I tracked down the TSB, and put in my Optima.
You can check the regional subforums here on the club, you might find a mechanic in your city that has rotary experience.
I have an Optima Red Top that I bought on Amazon. It is a beast, the car starts immediately, every time. Hot, cold, whatever. Its not cheap, but I like the car so I splurged.
This is going to sound strange, but make sure you check the Cold Crank Amps on the battery. You want at least 640. Some of the cars originally shipped with a smaller battery, if I recall correctly, it was the Miata battery. Later on, Mazda realized they had a problem starting, so they installed higher rate starters and replaced the smaller batteries. I have a 2005, and it was running the smaller size battery. I had replaced it a few times (at Walmart), but they kept using the wrong size. Eventually I tracked down the TSB, and put in my Optima.
Last edited by BigBadChris; 08-09-2015 at 05:28 PM.
08-13-2015, 07:05 PM
#5091
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im looking into doing my plugs wires and coils...from what I've read advanced auto parts is the place to go (heeding the risks of non OEM parts). before I order the parts I want to make sure that these parts will work well and want to know if anyone has some insight on these exact parts (if you have purchased them or not, why etc.) if not these parts can anyone please suggest parts to get for this job??
THANKS
2: NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug (RE7C-L)
Part No: 6700
2: NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug (RE9B-T)
Part No: 6701
1: NGK Ignition Wire Set
Part No: 4858
4: CARQUEST by Intermotor Ignition Coil
Part No: E1001
THANKS
2: NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug (RE7C-L)
Part No: 6700
2: NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plug (RE9B-T)
Part No: 6701
1: NGK Ignition Wire Set
Part No: 4858
4: CARQUEST by Intermotor Ignition Coil
Part No: E1001
08-14-2015, 06:41 AM
#5093
40th anniversary Edition
Glenn09
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.
- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)
- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.
- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.
- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.
Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"
Last edited by gwilliams6; 08-14-2015 at 07:12 AM.
08-14-2015, 10:39 AM
#5095
08-16-2015, 03:21 AM
#5096
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cranks but no spark
please help!
Engine cranks over but has no spark.
Ive replaced coils, leads, plugs & crank sensor with working parts from a working RX8 so I can rule out those parts, but im still not getting any spark. ive check all fuses in the engine bay/passenger foot-well.. are there others I dont know of?
what else can i test??
Engine cranks over but has no spark.
Ive replaced coils, leads, plugs & crank sensor with working parts from a working RX8 so I can rule out those parts, but im still not getting any spark. ive check all fuses in the engine bay/passenger foot-well.. are there others I dont know of?
what else can i test??
08-16-2015, 09:20 AM
#5097
How are u testing for no spark?
If I recall correctly only the Lead plugs fire during cranking so if you are using the trailing plugs grounded against the frame you're not going to see a spark.
Do you have a check engine light on/checked for any MILs?
What year?
Mileage?
Manual or Auto?
The crank sensor (ESS) are "not" normally known for failing .. make sure it is connected/plugged in, if this is not connected you will not get a spark.
Re-check the plugs leads are connected correctly in the correct order.
And finally compression.
If I recall correctly only the Lead plugs fire during cranking so if you are using the trailing plugs grounded against the frame you're not going to see a spark.
Do you have a check engine light on/checked for any MILs?
What year?
Mileage?
Manual or Auto?
The crank sensor (ESS) are "not" normally known for failing .. make sure it is connected/plugged in, if this is not connected you will not get a spark.
Re-check the plugs leads are connected correctly in the correct order.
And finally compression.
Last edited by wcs; 08-17-2015 at 06:16 AM.
08-17-2015, 04:13 AM
#5098
please help!
Engine cranks over but has no spark.
Ive replaced coils, leads, plugs & crank sensor with working parts from a working RX8 so I can rule out those parts, but im still not getting any spark. ive check all fuses in the engine bay/passenger foot-well.. are there others I dont know of?
what else can i test??
Engine cranks over but has no spark.
Ive replaced coils, leads, plugs & crank sensor with working parts from a working RX8 so I can rule out those parts, but im still not getting any spark. ive check all fuses in the engine bay/passenger foot-well.. are there others I dont know of?
what else can i test??
How are u testing for no spark?
If I recall correctly only the Lead plugs fire during cranking so if you are using the trailing plugs grounded against the frame you're not going to see a spark.
Do you have a check engine light on/checked for any MILs?
What year?
Mileage?
Manual or Auto?
The crank sensor (ESS) are normally known for failing .. make sure it is connected/plugged in, if this is not connected you will not get a spark.
Re-check the plugs leads are connected correctly in the correct order.
And finally compression.
If I recall correctly only the Lead plugs fire during cranking so if you are using the trailing plugs grounded against the frame you're not going to see a spark.
Do you have a check engine light on/checked for any MILs?
What year?
Mileage?
Manual or Auto?
The crank sensor (ESS) are normally known for failing .. make sure it is connected/plugged in, if this is not connected you will not get a spark.
Re-check the plugs leads are connected correctly in the correct order.
And finally compression.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 08-17-2015 at 04:29 AM.
