Deal on an R3- Questions!
 

Hey everyone,

I had an 05 RX8 that I totaled in 08 and since then I've always wanted another. Well, it just happens that an 09 R3 is for sale in my town. I went and took a look at it a week ago and it has 38,500 miles, 7k on a rebuilt engine, and I was able to talk the owner down to 13.25k with me chipping in an additional $120 for a compression test.

I'm only aware of cosmetic issues- the driver side seat has a tear in it that was patched, the passenger dash has the "h crack," it has scratches on the key entry (which is odd considering it's keyless), scratches on the aluminum trim, and the spoiler has a bit of fade due to sun exposure. I took it for a drive and it runs really well, started right up, with no creaks or squeaks. The owner told me he bought it with the freshly rebuilt engine and a VIN check says it sold for 14k. He says he redlines it every day and has premixed since he bought it.

I wanted to get your opinion of this deal and a heads up on any mechanical issues I am likely to face in the coming years.

Looking forward to possibly being a part of this forum again it was so helpful with my last rotary!

Sounds like a very unloved R3. The S2s had a more reliable engine that generally lasted longer than the S1s if well maintained. A new engine at 38.5K miles seems odd. The car was obviously left outside in direct sunlight and hot environment for an extended period based on the faded paint and cracked dash. I paid $15K for my show room condition, 24K mile 2010 R3 a year ago. $13.25K seems awfully high for one with faded paint, a cracked dash, and replaced engine to me.

Yeah I figured that much as well. It obviously sat outside for a while and the low mileage would indicate an engine that wasn't driven enough and/or properly hence the rebuild.

Any idea on offers?

Compression results
 

Here's the result of a compression test performed august third this year. Rebuild was done about 8k miles ago.

Rotor 1 @ 250 rpm/288 rpm
Chamber 1: 8.4 9.1
Chamber 2: 8.3 9.1
Chamber 3: 8.6 9.3

Rotor 2 @ 250 rpm/288 rpm
Chamber 1: 8.5 9.2
Chamber 2: 8.7 9.4
Chamber 3: 8.7 9.4

Those are some solid numbers

I'd drive down the price due to the exterior condition. Engine compression looks good, though.

I am seeing it in person again tomorrow. Last time I saw it it was raining so I couldn't get an accurate judgement of the overall condition. Will snap some pics and upload them then.

I'd offer 9-10 for it if they had records on maintenance of the trans/diff and other services. If not $8-9 to pay for new ignition and cat updates.

Check out the listing:

https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/l-Used...ting=177972962

Picture 2 is not R3 seats. Odd.
Looks pretty solid overall.
Curious who did the engine rebuild?

Many of pictures look like they're at a dealership

I'm familiar with that parking lot. It was actually a dealership that went out of business years ago so it makes since why you'd say that.

Pictures
 

Ok here are the pics. My consensus is it's got some eyesores and the car wasn't very well taken care of.
Chip out of the paint near the fuel cap:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...srmemaygi.jpeg


Worn tires:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...s3cv0sx1u.jpeg

Weather stripping sun damage, only present on driver's side, yikes:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...sqz0ab7dt.jpeg

Spoiler fading from sun damage:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...scdaaucn0.jpeg

Damn chip in the dash:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...s362touqe.jpeg

Trunk scratches:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...szhpfq8ix.jpeg

Someone sucks using the key:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...s6t4zyscg.jpeg

Ugly patch job on the driver side seat:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...snxogf6vz.jpeg

Not bad.. some fade spots on the hood:
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o...smujrzdo4.jpeg

Engine rebuild was a Mazda dealer in Georgia. I got a picture of the invoice as well.

Yes the condition drives the price down (South Carolina sun and humidity year-round would be brutal if left outside) , as well as uncertain maintenance records. As Wannawankel suggests you may need to spend on maintenance items, so include that in your offer after you check its records.

A reminder:

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________

My S2 also has some paint chips. I just fill them in with a bit of touch-up until I have the money for a good refinish job. Small chips are expected for a 7~8-year-old car, really. Minor trunk scratches are also expected.

My car didn't exhibit other types of wear like that one, though. Wonder where the scratches near the ignition come from... I don't even use the key unless the battery is dead, although that panel is probably easily replaceable. Looks like that panel is held on with just a couple of screws. When I installed some floor lights in my Accord, the same panel came off really easily.

Yeah I wasn't able to source that speficic panel in the dash, but it should be cheap, as was the weatherstripping- a mere 20 bucks. The drivers side seat is around 250, I think. However I can't say for sure that the store I was searching through had R3 seats. I saw mostly leather and I know R3 is like a blend. Good tires would cost upwards of 1000 installed. I could live with the other issues, a full repaint would happen sometime in the near future. So long as I can get him further down maybe closer to 11-12 range I think I could make it work.

My next task is to find out all they replaced during an engine reman. The tech who did the compression test last week said the coils are all good but I don't know-- they could be old coils that haven't gone bad yet from the last engine. I read somewhere that someone lost his engine because coils weren't replaced on time or a spark plug wasn't tightened down enough and it killed his rotor 1 early? I worry that this engine could have something similar happen to it. I know it posts good compression now, but wouldn't a good engine post in the 9s if it only has 7k miles on it? Best thing for me to do would be to call the dealer monday and get a result of their compression test after they installed the engine

Get a look at those maintenance records if you can. That will tell you a great deal about what the car will need to have a long life ahead. Guessing can wind up being expensive !