After much research done with everyones friend re search button I am yet to find a resolution to my problem I recently had my engine replaced by Mazda I had new coils plugs and wires put on just before the swap and I never ha this code , as soon as they replaced it they fucked up and never put the crack position sensor on correctly causing it to pop off and me having to have it towed to Mazda for 100$, So the problem is when i accelerate around 6krpms it seems to have a power lose like its holding back as well in higher gears 5-6th mazda told menit was to coils failed, I check them they were both perfect but oh well ill replace them just to prove Mazda wrong so i did and still same problem , I have a CAI by aem and its perfectly seeled which one person said it was as well as I have NGk plugs and wire set and oem coils as well as I believe i have a faulty coolant sensor anyone have any ideas?

 

Did they (or you) reset the NVRAM (eshaft profile) after the motor swap and/or once the sensor was reinstalled?
Also, hopefully the sensor was cleaned and clear of any debris.
Its an induction sensor so any metal bits can cause irregular readings

The commonly failed component within the ignition coil (the ignitor) can not be tested with a meter alone and can't be "visually" inspected either.
Even new coils have a chance of going bad right away, but you could verify that by swapping both coils for the front rotor (causing the P0301 code) to the rear rotor and see if you receive a misfire code for the rear (which would be P0302).

 

This is what I planned to do tomorrow is switch leads and trailing and then switch plugs ect to figure out If the code changes if it doesn't I have no idea what to do thanks for such a detailed reply

 

Coils changed and spark plugs cleaned because they afe only are only one thousand kn old although mazda did **** up with the crank position sensor Which is quite possible that it fried a plug or two? I'm stumped here now I've inspected a full list of issues yet still no answer

 

did you reset the NVRAM, as jon316G suggested?

 

Yes I did

 

have you checked your cat converter?

 

I did not have a chance to fully inspect it but it's a good chance that it is done because after tonights run it was crackleing and poping

 

make sure you check it either at night, after a quick spirited drive, or by pulling the front down and inspecting it visually.

 

Quicker and easier than this is to use an inductive timing light on each spark plug wire while revving the engine to redline. Any weak or erratic behavior from the the strobe light is indicative of a failed/failing coil or something else with your ignition system.

The screens on your intake may be slightly misaligned, which will also cause such issues.

If you have 80K miles or more on your car, the fuel pump is also suspect.

 

Cat seems to be fine, plugs are a bit dirty coils are fine air intake is sealed , WTF is this issue

 

Did you actually take the cat down and visually inspect?
If so, take charles' advice and check your fuel pump.

 

Ok so cat is fine spark plugs fine coils fine still reading misfire now engine sounds like a fart can or a gargle when i accelerate high rpms no power in the high end at all and a constant knocking in engine at idle , can this seriously be my second 13b gone?

 

are all wire connections with plugs/coils tight? And I mean TIGHT!
Other things to check:
eccentric shaft sensor (followed by 20 brake stomp)
fuel pump
secondary shutter valve

 

What's the best way to check thefuel pump? Any diy guides? But would that answer the knocking and the fart can sound when accelerating ? I don't think it will

 

by any chance did you figure out what the problem was i am having a similar issue..

 

This sounds exactly like my issue. Any luck?

 

Hey, sounds like my issue as well!

Just got my engine replaced. I noticed I was getting a flashing CEL and sometimes a solid CEL right after pulling out of the parking lot! Thought it was going to go away...
But the engine runs fine! Smooth as butter. No power losses. Definitely got to be the crank pos. sensor!

 

I have this issue too could it be the Oil metering pump? Maybe it has to be put back in a certain place?

 

Bump.

any find out the problem for this?

 

Thread bump I seem to have the same issue, I cannot believe no one found the solution and posted it back here.
I have just done a lot of work on my engine, new aluminium flywheel clutch, radiator, removed and inspected OMP. This morning the engine light flashed and then went away and this afternoon it flashed and remained on giving the P0301 code. I changed the Coil/wires/plugs about 5K miles ago.

 

So many people so little answers, not a single update since 2013? Having something very similar though the engine is a transfer and never had any previous CEL's. I never get the oil gauge bounce on the NVRAM reset, the car is a 2004 presumably the previous owners never got the flash? Can this be my problem? Maybe I've already fixed it but it keeps coming up from memory? Have a base auto ECU available from the donor car to switch out, this is a GT, is there any notable dif? Also have a gutted cat but that shouldn't be throwing a 301?

Edit: Numbers aren't the same........ fudge ....................... Probably traction control is the dif, given the other ECU is from a base without it.

 

So guess I'll be the first to respond with an answer in my case. In spite of the coils, wires and plugs being brand new it turns at this point it was a bad wire after nearly going bonkers because they were all new NGK's never suspected. Very happy to announce that my miss seems to have been remedied with an older set of wires, will keep updated if anything changes. The engine has more power at the top end but by now after a fair bit of driving since discovery last night it usually begins flashing after my first cycle of hard throttle and upshifting but nothing so far.