2004 clutch issue
 

Hey I have a 2004 6 speed MT. For a few weeks the clutch felt gritty. I recently replaced the A/C belt and had some squeaky for a while afterwards until I got it adjusted. So last week I noticed the squeaky noise again but when I depressed the clutch even slightly it would stop. Today while shifting gears the clutch pedal got loose and I could not shift gears. I checked the pedal assembly (I've changed it twice) and the clutch slave cylinder ( I've changed once) they seem to be fine. After pumping the clutch numerous times I was able to get it in gear. I limped home but on the way there was the smell of an electrical burn and it sounded like something was breaking and falling off under the car. Both drive belts are intact. I need help in a bad way. I need to get this fixed this week.

Any reason you keep checking the drive belts? They have nothing to do with the clutch. All clutch force is from engine movement, vacuum, and your leg.

It sounds like your release bearing is failing (requires dropping the transmission, typically a full clutch replacement is done at the same time), and/or your pedal assembly is breaking again, just in a way you aren't recognizing.

What he said..

And, I would do it soon. Mine failed explosively... The pumping probably got it loose enough to work correctly.

Not to thread jack or anything but mine did the same thing so mazda replaced it with a stage 2 clutch and new fly wheel. They told me that the springs on the clutch were literally falling off, they were surprised that I made it to 68XXX on the original clutch since day 1. But my question why does my clutch feel loose? Do I need to bleed and do an adjustment to the pedal or wait til the break in period first?

Yes, you can check the clutch free play, and you can re-bleed the clutch. Many shops miss these two steps.

Thanks for the help. I had a mechanic friend listen to it and he thought the same thing the throw out bearing. I'll keep you all posted on the findings.

Ok now I'm at a cross road. Today I get a call from the transmission shop telling me that can't start my car. It just turns over like there's no compression. I go over to see for myself and it sounds like it did when the apex seal failed. There was a rattling noise as it turned over but no combustion sound. I had a factory reman engine install January 2012. Any suggestions before I either have to dump another 5 grand in to it or part ways with my very nice looking but nerve racking car?

I'd really confirm that it IS compression failure before just ditching the car, rather than a bad flood by the shop.

Ok I got my car back from the shop it was the bearing. It was so mangled they had to replace the candlestick also. The clutch is very soft and took some getting used to. Otherwise I'm happy to be driving again ? Thanks the comments and help.

The non start issue was ? And , can you explain what a candlestick is, please.

I would assume by candlestick he is talking about the input shaft on the trans

That's correct the input shaft, I didn't know the correct name. As far as it not starting they flooded it and drained the battery in the process. I've only had it flood on two occasions and it was never that bad. My apex seals went out about two years ago and it sounded and felt the same way. That's why I was concerned. The clutch is really soft now. I'm still trying to get used to it. They said it was fine but I'm driving a little more aggressive to make sure. Nothing yet.

Thanks Shade, I assumed that was it, though I have never heard it referred to that before.If the workshop didnt adjust the clutch pedal correctly, there are instructions in here on how to set it up the correct way.Glad its back on the road.

When you said the bearing, is this what they call the throw out bearing?