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Another little update. Took the car last night with the duty cycle up and ready to feel what 28 psi is like . The first time the boost hit I blew off an intercooler pipe at high speed. Even though the intercooler is mounted in the rear to the condenser mount and the other charge pipe was still on, the force of the air on the driver side pushed the intercooler down to kiss the pavement. Intercooler is a little banged up but appears to be okay.
So today I fabbed up another mounts of 3/8" round steel. I first started my stacking wood blocks under the intercooler to make it all as level as possible. I connected a piece of 3/8" round to the intercooler with some fuel line mounts (gotta use what you have). I then fabbed up arms that came down from the outside of the front crash beam to the horizontal round. Made all the cuts, tack welded it all, pulled the crash beam off and did all the final welds and grinding. Hit it with a quick coat of black paint and done. For about $10 in supplies I made the intercooler mount way more solid and now have 6 total mount points now. Probably should have done it a long time ago. Will also be less stress on the charge pipes. Final measurements - the bottom of the intercooler is about 6.5-6.75 inches from ground, was previously 5-5.5".
Also, my MTs are down to about 20-30% tread. I hate that I can't corner with these balloons on. Looking for some street tires for my stock wheels.
Looking at the Toyo R888R 245/40/18, does anyone know of any stickier "street" tires???????? Any idea what kind of horsepower these may hold? Anyone have any experience with them on a 8?
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Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 02-23-2019 at 05:50 PM.
I wanted to mount my ic like you did before i actually installed mine, how are the iat like that? Is there a major difference when cruising 30mph vs 60?
I wanted to mount my ic like you did before i actually installed mine, how are the iat like that? Is there a major difference when cruising 30mph vs 60?
wow 28psi is crazy! Keep it up
My IAT sensor is mounted in the UIM so it registers heat soak more than incoming air temp. I generally see 25 degree's above ambient on IATs when cruising on the interstate at low RPMs, but that is likely just heat soak since the turbo isn't compressing anything. I saw a rise from 100 to 155 during a 0-130 mph run the other night in 75 degree humid weather. Boost was 24-25 psi. That was also spraying about 800-900 cc/min of water/methanol into the turbo/UIM and a 55% ethanol content in the fuel. I really feel like the turbo is just choking up at this point and making a good deal more heat. I would move up to a S369SXE, but I really want to see some data on the new EFR8474 first. I would say that the intercooler doesn't work well in this position (better than nothing?) , but I have no choice because with it I just don't get enough flow over the radiator and condenser with it in the normal front mount position. I was constantly in the 200-220 range with the front mount in the normal position. In the flat mount position, I see water temps of 175-190.
Got Dragy GPS a few days ago.
First pass I made I spun all the way through first and put up a not so stellar time. Overall it looks to be accurate. I am on the leaderboard for #16 in 1/4-mile and #20 in 0-60. It was a warm humid night so it looks comparable to my time slip above. It shows that I should be picking up 25mph between the 1/8th and 1/4 mile.
60ft - 2.27 secs
330 - 5.77 secs
1/8 - 8.46 @ 93.83 mph
1/4 - 12.68 @ 119.13 mph
0-60 - 4.85 secs
This was going up a 2.23% incline
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 02-25-2019 at 06:39 PM.
My IAT sensor is mounted in the UIM so it registers heat soak more than incoming air temp. I generally see 25 degree's above ambient on IATs when cruising on the interstate at low RPMs, but that is likely just heat soak since the turbo isn't compressing anything. I saw a rise from 100 to 155 during a 0-130 mph run the other night in 75 degree humid weather. Boost was 24-25 psi. That was also spraying about 800-900 cc/min of water/methanol into the turbo/UIM and a 55% ethanol content in the fuel. I really feel like the turbo is just choking up at this point and making a good deal more heat. I would move up to a S369SXE, but I really want to see some data on the new EFR8474 first. I would say that the intercooler doesn't work well in this position (better than nothing?) , but I have no choice because with it I just don't get enough flow over the radiator and condenser with it in the normal front mount position. I was constantly in the 200-220 range with the front mount in the normal position. In the flat mount position, I see water temps of 175-190.
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My setup seems to do a lot better than that with IC mounted upright in front of rad. I've found so long as you keep 3" gap below IC and all ducting in place that water temps are under control. I do have an extra side mounted radiator though. IATs are much lower as well but I'm only hitting 14psi ATM so not a good comparison.
There were times at lower boost pressures I would only see a 15-20 degree F rise during a run. Now I regularly see a 40-55 F degree rise during long pulls. The turbo is just generating a lot more heat (to be expected). I could try a bigger water/meth injector in front of the turbo, but the car is running so smooth right now. I have about 500 logs on my computer, I may try to find some at lower boost pressure to compare the IAT readings.
I may just pull the trigger on a S369SXE with the bigger turbine wheel where I can run less boost and be in a more friendly part of the map (both less heat) during 1/4 mile runs.
Small update: Took the car out last night for some pulls at the top of 4th it felt like the car suddenly lost power. Babied it home. Engine vacuum is all good, but getting a ticking noise somewhere in the motor/bellhousing area.
I reviewed the logs, timing and air/fuel ratios (mid 11's) were all okay during the run. No knock logged during the "event". Was at 24 psi when this all happened so I wasn't pushing it beyond what I would normally do. It feels like the car needs a lot of extra effort to build boost
Did a compression check this morning and everything is normal (mid to high 90s on both rotors, 3 equal pulses). Checked the intercooler piping and don't see anything obvious plus that wouldn't make the ticking noise. Checked plugs and coils and everything is firing like it should. Drained the oil to look at it and no apparent bearing material. Oil pressure is normal. Fuel pressure is normal. No vacuum lines blown off (again normal vacuum readings). Car starts and idles fine, just a loud tick. You don't notice the car down on power or acting up once you begin to push the throttle more than a 1/4.
There is only 3 things that come to mind from the noise.
1. First I though it was maybe the pilot bearing again, but the noise is there whether i'm in neutral or driving in gear. Once the transmission is locked to the motor the output is stable in the bearing and wouldn't make any noise. Plus why would I lose power? This may be a long shot.
2. I cracked the manifold which would explain the tick and could account for the loss of power though I would think it would only be really apparent under heavy loads??
3. I spun a bearing in the motor and the noise is from that an its robbing power, but normal oil pressure, oil looking normal?
4. Cracked iron?
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 03-16-2019 at 10:12 AM.
Is the noise at same speed as the rpms ?
Suggest you use a long handle screwdriver (or a stethoscope) to zero in on where the noise is.
Hope it's nothing serious !
As stated in the last post, car had normal compression, had normal oil pressure, normal fuel pressure, coils/plugs all functioning as they should.
Decided this morning to pull off the turbo and manifold to check turbo function and turbo manifold.
Turbo seemed to be just fine. Checked the manifold over and that 16 pound schedule 40 beast still looks like the day I welded it up.
Now that the PPorts are accessible from removing the manifold, I peak in there to take a look inside the front rotor housing to see if any damage is visible.
and.......
WTF! I know why the car was down on power now lol........ At 120 mph, 6500 RPMs, 24 psi the exhaust sleeve said **** it? Car runs, drives, starts, and idles like this....
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 03-17-2019 at 10:52 AM.
Based on what I found on rx7club, the sleeve can become loose in the housing and tilt up which causes the sleeve to be put in the path of the hot gasses flowing out (instead of over it). The sleeve becomes super heated, soft, and the whole thing slowly gets pushed into the port (may slam in there the last little bit). Looks like I just have to pull the entire engine apart and remove the bad sleeve. I will likely pull both sleeves out and do a big nasty exhaust port and lengthen the bridge. I think the rest of the motor will be okay. Hopefully just $200 for a new closing kit and some supplies.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 03-22-2019 at 08:08 PM.
Mini Update: Pulled the motor apart yesterday. Housings, rotors, seals, bearings, and irons were all in good condition. Only issues were the caved in exhaust sleeve and I noticed some of the corner seals springs were collapsed or nearly collapsed.
Looks like I just have to drill out the exhaust sleeves, weld up the holes, do some additional porting on the irons and housings, and put it back together with a new closing kit and some new corner seal springs.... Probably going to be about $200 all in on this one.
Just another comparison pic of what it should/shouldn't look like.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 03-24-2019 at 08:29 AM.
Ya that pretty much the consensus. The bigger the port, the more the sleeve is in the exhaust flow. Once it gets in, heats up quicker, gets hotter, deforms more, repeat, etc. until it destroys itself and blocks the port. I ported both sides the exact same, one died and one looks the same
it is not a good idea to either widen the exhaust port or raise the top. the port is peripheral, huge and open a long time.
if you widen it the apex seal will warp as it needs the shoulders for support.
if you raise the top you are increasing the overlap which pollutes the intake charge air.
you can open the bottom a bit to drive the turbo harder and make more midrange.
flattened corner seal springs are the number one tell for knock other than the sensor. in your case you might not have had knock rather elevated temps due to the plugged exhaust.
Last edited by howard coleman; 03-25-2019 at 07:39 AM.
I haven't gone anywhere. I purchased a new titanium sleeve online for $70 shipped. Also bought 200 roll pins from China bay and found the correct size I need to install the sleeve. I had to really drive that roll pin in the housing and that sleeve isn't moving anywhere. Only had the sleeve protruding in the exhaust path by a mm or two in one area so I did some smoothing with the dremel. It is now flush or recessed from the aluminum on the rotor housing. I didn't touch the exhaust ports. I did however bring the relief port outside the bridge down closer to the exhaust port (more overlap). Should really brap now and hopefully bring more power in above 7,000 RPMs as the relief is now twice as big and opens way sooner. I just have to do some cleaning on all the components and I should start putting the motor back together this weekend.
Total cost appears to be about $82 for sleeve and roll pins and I spent another $240 on a closing kit from Pineapple plus a couple extra side seals (to replace anything longer than 0.003-0.004. Also just got 12 new corner seal springs and a new front and rear main because why not. Total cost of rebuild $322.
Motor getting close to being dropped back in, end float all good. Makes good compression.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 04-09-2019 at 04:43 PM.
Looking for any ideas. Car is ready to fire up. As I always do after a rebuild, I was checking to make sure I had decent oil pressure before attempting to start the motor.
Tried cranking for 10 secs wait a few minutes, try again, etc. Never saw any oil pressure on my digital gauge.
Started troubleshooting.....
Obviously enough oil in the motor.
I am getting oil pressure at the turbo (gauge on oil feed).
I pulled the oil line between the front cover and driver side oil cooler and am getting a good deal of oil (I would consider normal) coming out of the line when cranking the motor.
Pulled the oil line off of the oil pedestal coming from the passenger side oil cooler and am getting plenty of flow.
Pulled the oil filter off, crank, and getting plenty of flow.
Pulled the oil pressure gauge sender off the mount, cranked, and again plenty of oil flow.
Tried a different pressure sender and still 0,
I put a silicone hose on the threads of the oil filter mount and blew hard and was able to get the oil to push down into the motor (which I assume goes to the oil pressure regulator).
I have confirmed that oil is being pushed around the motor. Oil pressure regulator was installed the same as I always have.
I am going to try a mechanical gauge tomorrow and see if I can get any pressure reading.
Oil pressure was fine when I pulled the motor apart and did not change any of the bearings.
Obviously oil pick up, oil pump, oil drive are all working normally because oil is being pumped normally around the motor. I hope this is not all due to a bad digital gauge.....
Any ideas that I haven't though of??????
GRrrrrrrrrr......
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 04-26-2019 at 08:38 PM.
If you have oil everywhere... the odds of it being the gauge are huge 😎... especially since it is saying 0..
My car died on track and wouldn't start. No weird noises or anything... turned out the oil pressure sensor died and the fail safe turned off the motor...
Better than the motor blowing... but kinda annoying
I just turned off the fail safe and ran it without.... and hoped I didn't have an oil pressure issue
Stroker ..... do you normally get a reading just from turning it over ? If so is it the same gauge you had before ?
Dan ..... what happens if the stock oil pressure sender fails ? does the ecu do anything ?
The stock pressure sender is basically a switch. If there is oil pressure above the limit then it makes the gauge go to a predetermined position. Below that the oil light comes on. The position on the gauge is controlled by the pcm... as I remember they changed it with one of the early flash updates.
Well I tried blowing air into the oil pressure sensor and it did register..... I tried switching the fuel pressure and oil pressure leads and still not registering oil pressure.
I started the car up for 5 secs, fired up first try, and not registering oil pressure. I'm at a loss of how I normally have 120+ and now 0. I'm trying to think if I made any stupid errors, thermal pellet somehow in backwards, something in the stack reversed??? I have confirmed that the oil pickup, oil pump, and everything is pumping oil as it should..... WTF
Stroker ..... do you normally get a reading just from turning it over ? If so is it the same gauge you had before ?
Dan ..... what happens if the stock oil pressure sender fails ? does the ecu do anything ?
yes i normally build 20-30 psi on crank on my Prosport gauge. I have even tried putting the lead from the fuel pressure into the oil pressure gauge.
This is so weird because I have confirmed that I am building pressure at the turbo, which is fed from the front iron......
I guess next move would be to try and swap the oil filter then drop the oil pan swap oil pressure regulator, and check oil pickup???? If I find nothing there, pull front bolt and check thermal pellet???
The good news is that I have the stock rx8 oil pressure sensor (only a year or two old) on the same T fiitting as the aftermarket oil pressure sensor, and that dummy gauge reads normal pressure when I start the motor... Maybe there is just air trapped in the T-fitting not allowing the oil to push in the aftermarket sensor????
What are the odds that the factory rx8 dummy gauge is somehow reading registering pressure when there is none????
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 04-27-2019 at 09:50 AM.
There are only 2 relief valves. One in the front cover and the pressure regulator itself. You would have had to leave one out completely to get 0 pressure
There are only 2 relief valves. One in the front cover and the pressure regulator itself. You would have had to leave one out completely to get 0 pressure
Sounds like you may have to pull off the oil pan
I have never touched the regulator in the front cover. I did take the rear regulator off, but installed it. I will pull the pan and check everything. How often do the regulators fail, broken spring, etc???
02-23-2019, 05:05 PM
. The first time the boost hit I blew off an intercooler pipe 
at high speed. Even though the intercooler is mounted in the rear to the condenser mount and the other charge pipe was still on, the force of the air on the driver side pushed the intercooler down to kiss the pavement. Intercooler is a little banged up but appears to be okay.
