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I was going to suggest RA Super Seals as they claim they don't break, just wear. I am curious to see how you like them.
Well the post office lost my seals, the tracking number hasn't been updated in 6 days. I had to request an investigation. RA says they have to wait weeks in order to file a insurance claim so I am out in limbo. I guess I would expect nothing less from a organization that loses $6,000,000,000/year.
I want to know how that s362 feels? I just bought one for my build. I think I'm going to send the conmpressor housing to OCD works for the T51r mod
Hits just fine. I am using a high-mount turbo setup with 2" primaries so spool isn't great. 10 psi by 4,300, 20ish by 5,000. I am now going to a partial bridge-port, so I am hoping I can improve on both of those by a few hundred revs. I have a datalog on here that shows the turbo pressure coming on.
I finally received my RA apex seals. I was fitting them in my rotors last night, and they are much more snug in the rotor grooves than the Atkins seals were. They appear to be slightly thicker. I am wondering whether I should take some emory paper to the apex groove, or the seal itself? Im guessing that I only need to remove a 1/10 of a mm or two to get the seals moving easily through the slots.
I have been so busy with life lately that I havent been able to put any time into getting the motor rebuilt. I hope to make some progress on Saturday.
A view of the difference of the RX8 5 speed vs 6 speed. The transmission is much beefier in the 5 speed, bellhousing and tail shaft are smaller.
After installing the new transmission, balancing it on my jack, I found that the 5 speed has a dowel on one of the upper passenger bell housing bolt holes. So I had to pull the entire transmission down and drill out the dowel so I could install.
engine and transmission are in, now I just have to hook up everything else and can start.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 11-12-2017 at 02:25 PM.
Got the car fired up this morning. I have to hold the throttle open to keep it running. Seems to run fine at 1,600 RPMs. If I let off the throttle it slowly dies due to the Bridgeport. Before I started I was 89 PSI in the front rotor and 81 PSI in the rear rotor. Its a real PITA to start with an old battery and a freshly rebuilt motor. I will have to drill out the TB a bit more to get a 1,500-1,600 idle. Vacuum was 8 mm Hg at 1,500 RPMS.
Car definitely braps, and the exhaust is a whole level louder. Gotta break this thing in so starting is easier.
Update: Have run the car in my driveway for a few idling sessions of 30 minutes. Vacuum is coming up (12mm HG at 1,600 RPMs) and car is starting easier. I drove the car around the block, and it was smooth. Other than the higher idle, the car drives the same as it did before. Transmission seems fine.
Quick Video of the car idling. Car has 3 resonators and a large muffler, so the exhaust is pretty tame, even with the new port.
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 02-04-2018 at 07:45 AM.
Update: I have about 100 miles on the rebuild. I checked compression at 40 miles, compression in the front has improved from 89 to 92. Compression in the rear has improved from 82 to 102. Compression in the front never seems to be as good as the rear, probably just a rotor housing that is at the back half of its life.
During the rebuild I noticed oil in the intake tract, so I reduced the turbo oil restrictor from 0.075" to 0.06". Running 10-40 oil, at warm idle (1,600 RPMs), oil pressure is around 50-60, At 3,500 RPMs i'm near 90 psi, and WOT and above 4,000 RPMs i'm at 100-120 psi.
I think Adaptronics cleared up the timing issue with adaptronics. From the factory the rx8 trigger is preset with the first trigger angle of 41 (41,31,21,11, etc.). With the trigger angle of 41, you should have approximately 10 degree's of retard built into your map. However, if you align the trigger wheel and front cover at 5 ATDC, they theorize that your first trigger angle would be 31 (31, 21, 11, 1, etc.). Previously I ran with my trigger angle at 37 in the aligned position, so my timing map should have been within a few degree's. With my new rebuild, I used a timing gun to verify that the trigger wheel was aligned and I am now at 34 (34, 24, 14, etc.), so I am 3 degree's retarded of what adaptronics would hypothetically expect. It is likely that I am more accurate as Adaptronics values are hypothetically only. Now that I am confident that I am within a few degree's (and always was), the only reason for my previous blown motor was that enough oil was bypassing the turbo that when it entering the combustion chamber during WOT (20 psi) is was causing the octane to crater and cause detonation. Its the only explanation I can come up with.
During my break in on the new motor, slowly running through the gears up to 4-4,500 RPMs, I am getting a good deal of positive pressure from the turbo with TPS of only 15-35 even at light to medium throttle. I hope this is a good sign to come and that the BP will help spool/wind the motor up much quicker than the previous street-ported engine. I included a log of a typical light/medium run-up through 3rd gear.
The 5 speed is much better suited for a turbo motor, and much less cumbersome on the street. I will probably only put a few hundred more miles on the motor before getting on it.....
1.That mustant looks SLOWWWWW lol I had to
2. keep it up. looking forward to updates
The mustang is actually pretty slow. 5.7 liters, 11:1 compression, 9 pounds on a 76mm turbo, methanol injection, and 295/35/18 street tires. The last time I was at the track with 6.5 psi on a centrifugal blower, I would spin through the first two gears with a pitiful 2.1 60 foot, and still manage to go low 12's at 119-120 mph. Now with full boost at 3.5-4k on the turbo at 9 psi, I would probably spin event more and get a similar ET with 125+ mph traps speeds. If I put slicks on it, I'm sure I would just break my transmission (rated to 350 torque), snap axles, or kill the rear end. Its a prime example of overbuilding a car to not be fun, and it handles like ****.
After a 200 miles of breaking the motor in, I have been trying to log some WOT runs. I am on spring pressure only (12-13 psi) and cannot getting any traction above 5,500 RPMs in 1st or 2nd gear (the cold weather in FL right now isnt helping). With the new tranny, my 3rd gear runs out to 95 mph (@8,000 RPMs), which makes any type of data-logging unsafe and unrealistic. It was easier on my old setup because 3rd gear did not get so much mph. I am in desperate need of some traction, something I can use at the 1/8th or 1/4 mile. I think I could put some 16" wheels over the back 11.9" rotors, but there aren't any off the shelf wheels that would fit, like a 16x10. I would love to put 15" drag wheels with some MT or hoosiers on it, but I know they will not fit over the factory calipers. Has anyone found any easy solutions for getting some traction?
Even if you have traction the loading in 2nd gear is so low with uber quick transitioning that it won’t really be accurate for higher gears. A dyno may be your only safe alternative if you don’t have an offroad location instead.
Even if you have traction the loading in 2nd gear is so low with uber quick transitioning that it won’t really be accurate for higher gears. A dyno may be your only safe alternative if you don’t have an offroad location instead.
yeah 2nd gear logs are all over the place. I am usually logging third gear, but third gear runs up so high now. Tuning aside, I still need to get some traction. I see that many people put rx8 brakes on their miatas/mx5 because they are bigger (10.9" miata vs 11.9 rx8).... How hard would it be to put the miata rear brakes on a rx8? I just sent a message to good-win racing asking this hypothetical question.... I would love to run a 15" weld wheel like that are on this FD....(rear only)
Update: spoke with goodwin, and the mx-5 brake would fit, but they stated that the 15 inch wheel would not clear. I am looking at FD rear brakes, which are even smaller.....
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 12-26-2017 at 07:09 PM.
Been doing some WOT logs in third gear and trying to lock down my low and mid-range stuff before I start blasting up to 8,000. I have noticed that my spool is better since enlarging the exhaust ports and adding a partial bridge to the irons. Previously, I was getting 10 psi by 4,300 RPMs which I logged over and over again. Now i am getting consistent logs with 10 psi by 3,800 RPMs (see below). Overall, I can't make any inferences on power since I am only running 12 psi vs 20 psi on the previous motor.
I am still trying to figure out how to get a 15 inch wheel to mount to the car. I have some parts coming that may hopefully solve that issue so I can run some big tires...
Yes that what I have coming... They are 280mm. Goodwin said you cant use 15's on them, but I would think with some more aggressive offset (15x8, +25 offset) and some light shaving of the calipers, I would think you could fit a 15" wheel over an 11" rotor...
Update: Was able to log a pull up to 95 mph. I am nearly .5-1 point rich above 5,100 so I have pulled fuel from the map. I noticed that the motor was on the edge of not being able to ignite the mixture (I logged a misfire where it was too rich) so I had to lift early and go into fourth. Turbo is hitting 10 psi by 3700-3800, and the wastegate appears to be fluctuating at 4400-4500 RPMs, which is about 500 RPMs sooner all around than the street-ported motor. Should be able to pick up some real good power once I can lean it out and run the motor up to 8,000....
I am looking at adding a second water/methanol nozzle to the motor to help get a better distribution on the incoming charge. As you can see from the log, IAT was about 93 F at the beginning of the pull and ended up around 110 F (outside temp around 70 F). That triumph fast acting IAT sensor was one of the cheapest and best mods I have done so far.
I still see knock values from the rx8 sensor, but they are almost exclusively at no load/off throttle conditions. I think the sensor is picking up the BOV fluttering or backfires from the exhaust. I haven't heard anything audible from the motor yet. I'm probably gonna keep the boost around 15 psi for awhile, and only slowly increase the duty cycle once I get everything locked in and ready to go to the strip.
Update: New Log in 3rd gear. Much better with fuel pulled. I swore I took it up to 7,000, but I must have bitched out... I have to try and stay in it until 7,500 next time to complete the log, but I would be approaching 100 mph... According to Tremec, 4.44 rear end, 26" tire, and 1.391 3rd gear ratio, will hit 100 mph @ 8,000....
Another 3rd gear roll log, this time to 7,300 RPMs. Rich above 7,000. Will raise the waste gate duty cycle in those and lean slightly. Still need to keep it pegged up to 8,000. It is so awkward to run the car from 35-100 mph in one gear...
Last edited by strokercharged95gt; 12-22-2017 at 01:09 PM.
Update: 15 inch drag wheels fit! I can throw these MX-5 brakes in the garbage as the rear rx8 brakes clear!!! I had to do very little shaving to the banjo bolt that connects the brake line to the caliper. I took off a mm of the outermost caliper, which likely didn't even need to be done in order to fit. I took off a few mm of the inner control arm knuckle and probably 5 mm on the lower outer control arm knuckle. It was actually a pretty easy process.
These are Summit/Jegs wheels, which are 15x8 with a +27 offset. These wheels literally have 5 points of contact that have only a mm or two of clearance from brake and suspension components (no spacers used), I don't think any other wider wheel would fit. They are 1 piece billet aluminum weigh 14 lbs a piece and only cost $100 each. I have 235/60/15 MT drag radials on the way... I may have to roll the fender slightly, but I'm still on a stock suspension which will help.
I can't wait to have traction in 1st and 2nd gear Tires will only last 5,000-7,000 miles, but that is like 5 years worth of driving.
10-25-2017, 06:59 PM
Tires will only last 5,000-7,000 miles, but that is like 5 years worth of driving. 
