dannobre

iTrader: (3)

strokercharged95gt

I spoke with Force-fed about the part, I will try and make my own gasket first to seal. If it fails I will be buying this piece. Thanks for the info.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Hey guy I still need one of these.

strokercharged95gt

Just looking for a little help. I have the car all ready to start. When I attempt to start, the fuel pump is not turning on. I converted the system to return style and used a Aeromotive 11142 340lph intank. I made sure I hooked up the resistor back on the passenger side fender. I'm 99% sure everything is hooked up correctly. Is there a rewiring I need to do of the circuit since I am not running the return less style anymore? I am just trying to get some ideas before pulling the pump to inspect, those little tabs on the fuel tank ring keep breaking and I dont know if I can open/close again without ordering a new unit.

Update: Just checked power on the red/white + fuel pump lead and it is getting the initial voltage during prime and 12 volts during crank, so it looks like its either a bad pump or faulty wiring inside the fuel pump unit. There's only a few gallons in the tank, possibly too low of fuel.

Update: pulled the fuel pump assembly, hooked 12v directly up to the fuel pump and...... nothing.... brand new pump, never made one RPM and nothing. Just to make I am not retarded, I hooked the battery to the 11 year old 2004 Rx8 fuel pump and it nearly jumped off the ground.

Piece of ******* **** Aeromotive unit

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

I would urge you to do research on both topics prior to purchase. It all depends how comfortable you are when it comes to troubleshooting and mechanics.
And no offense, but I don't think you're up to the task to dealing with a REW swap. You can't even decide for yourself which one is "better".

Either way, do your own research, then decide which one you feel more confident in... good luck

Ian_D

If you don't have $10,000+ now to spend on a 13B REW conversion (you'll probably need $5,000 later too) then don't think about it.
If you don't have $5,000 for an MSP (RX8) conversion fit for 10,000 miles then don't think about it.
If you have the money and are still thinking about a conversion then please start your own thread - IMO you've hijacked this thread for too long already.

MaD666MaX

iTrader: (3)

Aeromotive is chinese rebrand stuff, cost 10$ to make and they sell em the big price. Send it back and theyll send another one free im pretty sure.

I have a s2 canister with a denso 265 pump(same size as r35,evo x, frs, miata) and denso is premium japanese stuff so no worries there.

Youll probably need a surge tank to make real power anyway(above 450whp)

strokercharged95gt

I bought it from Summit Racing for $150. I should have known that it was **** when there is a large message on the box that says "Please contact us if there are problems with this unit, and not the distributor". Like you said they probably order these pumps 100,000 at a time from a Chinese manufacturer. They probably inspect every 10th unit, and Aeromotive figures it cheaper just to send new units to anyone having problems rather than do any real quality control. I have had two Walbros in my mustang since 2001 and never had a pump failure/issues. I'm sure Aeromotive will send me another unit, but I'm not so sure I want it.

MaD666MaX

iTrader: (3)

Get a s2 pump assembly with a denso 265 pump

strokercharged95gt

Okay I put the OEM fuel pump back into the tank until I get the Aeromotive pump squared away with the manufacturer. Cranked the motor and made fuel pressure, but the car won't start. Pulled one of the spark plug wires off of the front rotor and hooked it up to a spare spark plug (grounded), cranked the motor and no spark (tried both leading and trailing). I pulled the terminals off of a coil (leading and trailing front) and found that I was getting 12 volts at the power circuit of the coil. I put the lead on the signal circuit to the coil from the computer, cranked the motor and I am not getting any voltage. It appears that the coils are hot, but the computer is not giving them the signal to fire. This leads me to believe it may be something with the eccentric shaft sensor. It is the stock wheel and stock sensor, so I don't know. The wheel and sensor appear to be aligned correctly. Any other obvious ideas why the ECU wouldn't send the signal to the coils to fire. Just looking for some oversight before I dig into it further. I am using the Adaptronics PNP for the RX8 so all of the leads from the computer should be correctly connected to the harness.

Thanks,

John

Ian_D

John, I can't help you directly as I'm not familiar with the Adaptronic. I am, though, going to be researching it, so if you have a write-up that you followed or produce one yourself then I can have a look to see if I can find anything that might be contributing.

Adaptronics have a facebook page where they respond to messages.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

You should check out the adaptronic forum on how to setup triggering for REW swaps.

strokercharged95gt

Yeah ill try to bypass the Adaptronics unit to see if I get any spark. IF I do then I know its a setting issue. If I don't get spark, I'll try to ground the main harness better and try to see if the eccentric sensor is functioning the way it should.

Update: I removed the Adaptronics unit from the ECU and I am getting spark now. So basically it must me a setting issue, which is strange since I have all my triggering settings in Adaptropnics setup to a stock RX8 ECU, since I am using the stock trigger/wheel from an rx8. Looks like I have some digging to do. Adaptronics forum is down for maintenance, yay.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

Did you buy your select from turblown?

strokercharged95gt

Yes I did. Its strange because the OEM PCM produces spark (verified with a spark plug out of the motor), but once I hook the adaptronics unit I get no spark, and I purposely used the Rx8 trigger/wheel and all rx8 functions to make this process as simple as possible. But no matter what I do in WARI, I can't make one lousy spark. I even did the ignition test in F11 menu, and still no spark. I am beginning to think that this unit is a dud.

Even though I was getting spark with the OEM PCM, I cleaned the ESS, regrounded all the wiring harness and PCM. This is a plug in play unit which essentially makes hooking it up incorrectly, and impossibility.

MaD666MaX

iTrader: (3)

Its possible that the unit is bad, mine fired right up. Good luck keep us posted

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

Give Elliot a call and tell him to provide you a base map file. He should be more than happy to provide you post purchase support as the US National Distributor.

strokercharged95gt

Got everything fixed. Have fuel and spark.

Tried turning the motor over and didnt get much combustion, I have been adding more and more fuel to startup, which is helping, and the motor is at that point where its kicking over, but not enough to fire up. Battery needs to charge. I will keep playing with WARI to see if I can find that sweet spot. Base fuel pressure is set at 45 psi, I am building upwards of 43 psi of oil pressure during crank. I would assume that this would take more fuel than the base rx8 settings due to the larger ports and having the secondary port valves removed. I am still waiting on a new fuel pump to come in.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Why don't you just load the single turbo 13b-REW base map and settings and see if that works...

strokercharged95gt

I can try that. I know I could load in the rx8 triggering/injection settings into the REW map. I just wasn't sure how the drive by wire system would mesh with REW basemap. I figured it was safer to start with the rx8basemap and tune towards the REW than vice versa. But you make a good point, they really ought to have a RX8/REW basemap available that uses the rx8 triggering, injection settings, and drive by wire with the REW timing, fuel, and limiters.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

I don't think you understand what a base map is. I'm talking about only importing the fuel and timing tables since everything else works fine.


Maybe you should take it to a tuner instead.

strokercharged95gt

I was attempting to just get the car started before worrying about all of WOT stuff. I am already expecting idle issues and will probably need to wire in an idle valve. I'm going to give it longer than a day before going to a tuner. I have been tuning my other car for more then a decade with much less user friendly software.

The engine start timing was the same in both maps, I was changing the start fuel timing to be more in sync with the REW base map. Adaptronics forum has been down for quite a while now due to upgrades. Things that I am looking for are like if the base map has the startup injectors firing at 180ms (based on water temp). Should my strategy be to divide the OEM Primary injector (405) by the actual primary injector (725), 405/725 = .55 then multiply 180 x 0.55 = 99ms for startup cranking, or is there a more simpler was to command the correct fuel. Its a process I am willing to learn. I actually get more enjoyment out of the process than the end product.

strokercharged95gt

The car is up and running, I let her idle for around 30 minutes. I was surprised that I had a rock steady 800 RPM idle on a medium street port REW. Some things that may help anyone out there attempting to start an Adaptroincs controlled REW. Because I removed the secondary port valve in the UIM, everytime you crank on the motor you have to imagine that air is being drawn in from both the primary and secondary ports. With the secondary ports closed on the intake, like it was from the factory, all of the air comes in from the primary ports into the rotor housing. Obviously, the P1 injectors inject on the primary ports, so you have to compensate the fuel for this. So I have added anywhere to 30-50% more injection from the primaries to make up for this, and this is also with 725 injectors. Before the car ran, I had low compression on the front rotor which is supposedly normal because the motor is not broken in yet even though I used resurfaced housing. Some things I have to look at is my rx8 ECU tells me that the water temp is 200-205, but the Adaptroincs unit is saying damn near 230, I'm sure that just an adjustment. I'll just keep slowly breaking it in over the new few weeks and see how auto tuning works. Also, once the break-in lubricant burned off, I had very little smoke coming out of my exhaust, so I may add more premix than outlined in the directions. I'm about 70psi oil pressure at startup, but after 30 minutes and full temp I was just shy of 30 psi (800 RPM), a blip of the throttle and it jumps up. The motor sounds definitely more throaty then the MSP. Sounds mean even with the OEM exhaust.

Video posted at link. This is off of my Samsung 3, sounds sucks.

http://s15.photobucket.com/user/jjro...ztcwy.mp4.html

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

Using VE for both cranking and running fuel simplifies things tremendously. Just make sure you've got your injectors sized properly and let the software do all the crazy math.

MaD666MaX

iTrader: (3)

My oil pressure goes over 100psi when cold and drops to 30 or so when hot at idle. When crusin it goes in the 80-100psi pretty often when i give load