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The eshaft is out of alignment, and the kink is too close to a lobe to be straightened. Per Rick Engman the motor will have an 8500 RPM redline, max do to the shaft issues, but should be fine otherwise. This makes the original NA build pointless, as to reach the power goals, we would need to spin it higher.
Am I the only one whose disappointed he doesn't want to spend the extra $5K or so to get a new e-shaft and follow the original build plan?
He'll spend at least that much going fi . I believe the hype train has a lot to do with it. You're not "baller" without big turbo and big numbers. I personally enjoy hanging around him when I can and I'm disappointed he's not staying na also. I believe the car, if completed, will be overpowered and no longer an enjoyment to drive. I don't want to throw shade at him because I'd like to go 20b as well, feel mid to high 400hp would be the cars sweet spot.
it will probably sit at about 600WHP with the street tune, with traction control, and a 370z transmission. Should be very derivable. Actually, The turbo should be about the same price, but my issue is that once you start spending in the range that a turbo costs for an NA, price per HP gets more and more not worth it. Had that shaft run out well, it would have been a nice setup at a reasonable price. It's no longer a reasonable price for an NA, at least not for the budget that I set aside for the build.Have to also consider that it would going to cost me another 3~4k for the independent ITB setup on the semi pports. In all actually, the turbo build as it is now will actually come out a little less than the original NA price. Adding another 6k to that could have been aluminum housings.... its just too much extra for me to continue that route.
I'll save the NA build for an all aluminum build where I can save weight too. Right now, I just want this car done for DGRR.
It's a complete roof. The factory roof's tack welds are cut, then this is glued and riveted in. I had it installed to BMW / Porsche / Audi standards by a guy certified by them.
It's a complete roof. The factory roof's tack welds are cut, then this is glued and riveted in. I had it installed to BMW / Porsche / Audi standards by a guy certified by them.
It's a 5lb roof. Factory panel is 20lb.
Looks great. Some day I may start trying to lighten things up on my car a bit. Its probably the heaviest rx8 ever.
Looks great. Some day I may start trying to lighten things up on my car a bit. Its probably the heaviest rx8 ever.
Just turn up the boost.
Originally Posted by reddozen
It's a complete roof. The factory roof's tack welds are cut, then this is glued and riveted in. I had it installed to BMW / Porsche / Audi standards by a guy certified by them.
It's a 5lb roof. Factory panel is 20lb.
Can you post pictures of the install process (if you have them)?
Motor wont be ready for DGRR. Still planning some things with the build anyway. The car will still be there, just no 20b yet. Maybe next year... I also updated the first post a little.
That looks better than I expected. Wish they’d rework the S1 kit to be a bit more like the S2 kit, well the rear flares anyway. Did you get any pics of the fender mods prior to the flares going on? Kind of like to see how much fat tire clearance it really has underneath them
Originally Posted by reddozen
I'm sure most have already seen it, but here's a recent pic from DGRR.
Probably not a billet shaft. Extra expense isn't justified on 500 WHP, and any billet shaft, on top of the high price, will have to be balanced with the rotating assembly too for another cost. If you're not going for 1000HP+ I don't see the need in billet anything. The few billet parts I'll have is only due to lack of availability of other options.
Thanks Lance. Wait till it has the 20b and actual power steering again... hahaha
Team, I have a fender off the car right now repairing damage I did to it, and fixing issues with the plasti dip. I'll take a picture tonight. It's all been cut out and welded up. I would guess you could easily fit up to a 13.5" tire under the car with rear fenders like these since they're 70mm. You can get just the rear flares from them, and they work just fine on the S1 cars. just get the V2 rear fenders and V1 S1 front? I'll actually be getting rid of these over fenders at some point and have my metal fabricator make reinforced metal fenders so it will all look stock and be a lot more durable / ridged.
Last edited by reddozen; May 14, 2019 at 08:05 AM.
I am drooling, which is really not unusual for a man my age, but this is my dream car.
I have been lurking a lot trying to decide what to do next, this build sure has my head spinning.
this is flesh, real flesh.
Dragger, glad to see you're still lurking around. This will be an interesting build for sure if I can ever get everything nailed down. Will still probably be a year or 2 before it's drive-able with the 20b sadly. Depends on how crazy I get with some of the little details I want to do.
Team, yea same... this was more a temporary solution to get the new wheels on the car etc.
