Another couple pics to show exactly how far out it is. 4.5cm top of flange to the sill U know there comes a point when E need to just admit they stuffed this up somehow in 3 ways. 1. Incorrect omp clearance. 2. Incorrect WP clearance (due to their dummy engine having a FD WP) 3. Turbo flange clashing with chassis. Can't bolt turbo on. Still waiting for a reply from E. I've asked for 1000 refund which is about how much it's gonna cost to make one around here. Also attached pics to show correct engine position on mounts.

Was your car just picked up today by Lucky7Racing?

never heard of em.

No. I'm at the Gold Coast Australia

Sorry disregard last post great build btw

If you'd have done even a minimum amount of searching on this forum you'd have never chosen Esmirel for such a project. You likely haven't even come close to figuring out how stuffed up it is yet.

I did actually poke around the forum n yes there were some negatives but amidst these negatives I messaged a very well known member with a 20b rx8 and was told he is personal friends with C from E and with the negative stuff being quite old I figured I'd give him a shot. So far I'm happy with the fab of the sub frame ext and the crossmember n mounts but time will tell I guess.

I tried other ways to get the turbo on. None are the answer as u can see by the pics. The turbo is touching the chassis and with the spacer E wanna send to give me omp clearance it would be impossible to fit the manifold or the turbo. I lifted the engine n gearbox about 2cm higher than the engine mounts and it's also favouring the left of the vehicle in order to fit the turbo. I also cut the chassis sill or lip. As u can see I cut it a little too close lol. Need to weld that up. Also I'm about 90% sure the dump Pipe he sent me will not clear the steering column. Keep in mind I'm in Australia. Right hand drive, which he knew. I can't say for sure yet as the engine with turbo isn't in its proper location yet.

Dang brother those problems your running up against are not worth the investment you put in. But nevermind that now, I'm sure little by little things will clear so don't give up!! That is what these swaps involve but it's worth it in the long run :-)

Mod Edit: Quote removed

So you preferred to start cutting the chassis instead of cutting the manifold and clocking it to a different angle...? :banghead:

It was always the plan to cut the SILL, not the chassis. This was part of the instructions from E, BUT it was never meant to be this close. The sill isn't really an issue to cut, tho I did cut it a bit close, but nothing a little weld won't fix. He's trying to tell me that there is nothing wrong with the manifold, that the lack of clearance on chassis is normal. I'm pretty sure it's not good to have a hot, vibrating exhaust and turbo touching the chassis.

Yay!!
At last some satisfaction, it seems like the people responsible for my problems are gonna sort it out with an agreeable solution. I knew they'd come thru. :-)
More to come soon.

Well the subframe and extension are now in the hands of a local engineer who is not only mad keen on rotaries but also an rx8 owner too.
Should have some pics for u soon.

Thought I better do something picture worthy today.
Pic1 left unpolished- right semi polished.

I used brass brushes on grinder and drill

Pic 2. Why u NEED to wear goggles whilst doing this shit. I was lazy and did not. This splinter shot me literally between the eyes!! Thank F it wasn't my eyeball. I didn't realize for a few minutes that it was lodged in my skin. Don't be complacent

Last pics. Polished about 90% with this method.
Need to hit it with the next treatment. ( I'm actually not sure what the next treatment is) lol
Metal polish!? I dunno

Somewhere here we will cut the manifold n reposition to clear the chassis

Have you figured out what you are giing to do about the steering rod?

Good to see things are progressing well. Look forward to seeing it in action soon.

Hopefully, there will be a Brisbane cruise after your car is ready.

If I can get enough clearance from manifold ill cut the spline piece off the knuckle and weld an extension in between the two. This way I don't need to take the car anywhere. Just the knuckle

Unfortunately this car will only see the track but, I am looking into building a 3rotor Rene engine for the road car. I have two complete engines in need of a rebuild so why the hell not.

Well because it'll cost a lot more than getting a regular 20b, someone has done it in the UK, with not so great results-not worth it. I have 2 13bre engines here as well but I have no e-shaft and middle thick iron for a 3rotor. If I could get those cheap I'd do a 3rotor in an instant!

Well it's the only rotor transplant that even comes close to being legal here

Some more trial fitting.
Cut the bottom pipe on 20b WP to clear the manifold.
Removed thermostat cover to clear the turbo. Added the rx8 alternator.
Ill probably have to use an FD water pump housing instead cos I think it has better bottom pipe location and clearances in general.
I wanna use the engine mount style EWP mounted onto FD WP housing.
Not sure which brand.
Either meziere or the e & j one.

Manifold still needs to be modified or rebuilt.
I think the engine needs to come down about an inch but I haven't got the crossmember in at the mo so I can't tell for sure.

Trial fit the rx8 alt. used a combo of rx8 bracket an cosmo square nut. Worked out quite well tho I'm still not sure what to do about the WP. ALSO added the rx8 pulley n CAS wheel. Does anyone think only 3bolts is an issue? Because I have reversed the pulley to line up with the alt, now only 3 holes line up. I cld just drill out the last one to line up. ?? Does it matter if the CAS wheel is backwards too? The teeth seem fairly symmetrical. Thinking bout making a bracket to attach to the omp for the CAS. Is the fan belt likely to affect the CAS being so close. ?

Yes it does matter if the CAS wheel is mounted backwards.

Guess I'll have to re drill a couple holes to fit. Thanks

The rx8 has the 2 locator pins which of course the 20b does not. Will I need to find the correct position for the wheel to sit for timing? Or does the sensor work it? , I think not hey? If I put the wheel on to match the holes on my crank , will that be the correct position for CAS to work?