500 to the wheels is easy enough to do with a 383. 383 w/ 10.5:1 compression or so, decent cam, a nice intake and a 850 double pump should easily put you around 450-500.

11:1 w/ a big cam, spreadbore intake, and a 850 double pump or bigger would go 600+

Better axles will be definitely needed. Diff probably won't happen(but that is just basing that off of FC TII and FD diffs). Rear suspension will probably be ok(might need to upgrade suspension links to the JIC pieces which are about $3500 for all of them).

According to Charles from BHR....You need to be concerned about the rear lateral links as they bend at 600. The PPF will break at about 420 but you will have a new one, anyway, or not one at all.

they also sale a set of axles that are good to 800 hp...and he said we wasn't sure about the diff holding up.

Well I'm still waiting on the motor mounts...so I still haven't gotten the motor in... But the problem I had with it binding was I had 2 rods in backwards and didn't realize it...well just cause I wasn't aware of it. But just for fun. I went ahead and threw it together without my cam that comes in sunday. Here's a idea what it looks like.

by the way I took this with my cell so quality isn't the greatest

hopefully motor mounts come in with the oil pan and the engine will be installed in place with pictures.

lookin good man.

Got the oil pan put together and ready to be installed...just a few pictures. Motor mounts will be welded in tomorrow....and the transmission will be in and set up...then we will start on the steering and the sway bar.

Motor mounts ready for paint...pretty much.

Looking very good so far, keep us posted!

Yeah the motor mounts are made of 3/8 angle iron....that's what it started off as...from there it's a piece of 1/4 inch wrapped over the top of it...to make it look better and well that much stronger... I'll be painting them and lifting my car it's 2 inches back up and then maybe one more inch.

cant wait to see video of it. :)

Yah! I would like to see you just driving around in a couple of normal situations... idling and taking off from a stoplight, highway driving, a few twisties. it would be cool to see how it does in day to day situations with all that torque and power available.

you going to run solid mounts?
Hope Not?
OD

YES lol there is no since in having a rough idling stroker motor that doesn't shake you at idle. lol I don't mind it. Everyone complains about the solid mount rotarty....and honestly I never did know the difference... I'm not picky. I like the feel of the power. I thought about poly but then I decided 500hp/tq I'd have to brace the motor well and I decided that the solid would be better. Besides the way I have it set in there...you can't raise the engine without removing the transmission. So to just change mounts you'd have to remove the transmission. So solid is better. I have stud head bolts as well...so if you do any type of work that has to do with the heads..... You guessed it the engine comes out.

So what kind of blower you going with?

Lol yah, if he hits his numbers, no blower required.

yup :lol2:

no blower will be required...if this motor doesn't push out a easy 500 then I got something wrong. With the intake, heads, and cam I should push the easy 500. Only thing that could be possible would be the carb not big enough. But from the numbers I was running for cc and everything this 670 double pumper carb should have excellent throttle response and power the motor just right.

good throttle response! LMAO!!!!!
Yea i think you will have that:)
Make some extra mm while you are at it?
Put lock tite on EVERYTHING
OD

Well I talked to summit..and summit told me that they hope to get my cam in on thursday...so then they will mail it out to me. Clutch, and new 1974 aluminum nova radiator came in. So I'll be fitting it. I'm making new tie rod ends to keep away from tie rod bump steering. But all of that should be done within the next couple of days. I'll just be waiting on the cam to come in and she will be ready to fire and drive. I'll give the messurments for my driveshaft to my guy tomorrow and he'll have me a driveshaft thursday if not friday. But all in all only thing holding me up is my cam. I'll be starting a new thread explaining everything with cost.

remember to take a video when you fire it up! i bet it's the only "383 RX8" in existence... that would make good custom plate...

wow, this is one heck of a build.
can't wait to see the completed project / videos.

670 double pump should be fine for 500 ponies but you are going to be on the edge of the carb's fuel limits. If you would go to a 800 double pump, that'd last all the way to 725hp or so.

Tonight I finished...and yes I say tonight it's almost 6 in the morning..getting ready for bed lol. My steering was made and setup. As well as measuring out for my new driveshaft. I'll call summit when I get up to find out when my cam will be here. But when my cam gets in.... I'll be ready to put the motor in and fire it up. Car should be running and driving next week.

Is that just a bad pic of the mount welds?
cause in that pic they look like bird shit. 500hp and all that torque may rip them straight off

That's flux core weld right there... It's all been welded...grinded and welded again. The top that your seeing is just 1/4 and couldn't be grinded. I has a weld on top or weld that's on top of weld.

Flux never looks good but as long as the heats up it welds good...just looks like shit.

If you look you see the front which is like a triangle...then it goes over the top. That's two totally different pieces...but It's been welded... Grinded and welded again and then touched up with the grinder...and it looks like one piece and not two.

It's just that flux core and weld on top of weld that makes it all look like shit. But I'd rather have weld on weld and be shitty then one small pass

Dude have you ran solid mounts on a high tq/hp car before? With the cam you are running and the power you will be playing with--sooner or later something is going to give. Not critizing now--please understand. But the vibrations are going to break something--- especially with a PPF setup. You also will be more likely to bend something.
Figue out a way to put some polys in there? And more of them. 3 mounts instead of 2?
OD

This thread makes me wanna cry, a carbed small block in an RX8? To each his own I guess.

^really?

I find it very cool and cant wait to see it finished

I dunno, to me it just won't work. I don't see this project ever being successful. There are just some swap that should never be done. IMO, anyway.

But if we all did the same things it would be no fun anyway so good luck and hopefully I am proven wrong.

He may have some problems with the electronics of the 8 and all of the modern gauges and wiring harness but even if those dont all completely work correctly I still think the car will run with the 383

Yeah I've gave a lot of thought about the bracing. I've added a lot of solid metal to the front end. Some are terrible worried about weight gain but I'm personally not. I've got the two mounts in the front there... I'm making braces that run towards the back...that run back down to the sub-frame. Then I have plans for a brace from the strut mount to the motor. I then have looked at welding a piece of 1/4 inch to the rails of the car a support to the transmission. On top of that even though the ppf would still be there. I'm also looking at adding some solid mounting to the rear. I basically plan on doing away with the ppf with the bracing I'm doing. But I'm going to leave the ppf for the extra strength.

As far as some poly. I've thought about putting about a 1/4 piece for a little padding. but IDK. figured I'd start it and see how she runs and what it feels like and then go from there.

I'm using the stock cpu..and putting the oil pressure and temp gauges and stuff like that on my motor. So the stock cpu will pick all that up and send it like normal. The only thing I'm worried about is my tach. Sense I'm not going to be running a crank sensor I'm concerned with it. But I'm hoping I can use the current that flows on the distributor to send the signal...

In the end they both do the same thing. Just not sure what the signal power is compared to the OEM power...and the other thing is will my gauge be reading 1000 rpm when I'm 1000 or will it be like 4000 when it really is a 1000. Since it would be picking up 8 sparks per rotation rather then 2 per rotation.

should have known you already had it figued for the power> Sounds like a plan
I think the ecu/tach problem will be unsolvable--heck you need a different one anyway:)
Outside-- on the hood:0 JK dude.
I wouldnt worry about weight right now!
OD

Man this is getting tiring....lol now my cam has been moved to next monday. Third time this cam has been moved back :(

technically it would be 3 per rotation of the crank on the wankel
(correct me if im wrong 2 ignitions on 1 rotor 1 on other depending where you start from)
compared to 1-4 per crank rotation on a v8 (depending on crank style)
so it souldnt be too far off if anything it would be showing lower rpms
but it may not read from the ignitions
it may read from the crank sensor this the experts would have to answer
so if you wire in the distribuator to the guage the rpms would show lower amount or wont work at all
since it would be voltage based off of the crank sensor or what not

or im completely wrong which is also a high possibility

is this a custom ground cam or something?
heck this kind of delay would cause me to have 2nd thoughts. Cams are easy to come by.
As far as the ignition is concerned------you know what to do. Its a carburated car ---right?
Apply the KISS rule:)
OD

Yeah it's carb...and what is the kiss rule???? But I talked to summit yesterday and they said it wouldn't be here till like next monday or tuesday...and I had a email from summit and they shipped it last night over nighted it to me!!!! So it shows it's out for delivery for today!!!!!

So give me a few days...and this car should be back on the road and I'll start giving you a heads up on everything. I still have a lot of the bracing and brackets to do that I haven't done.

As far as the cam it's one they show and offer but it's very aggressive it's only for street strip applications and it's a very aggressive cam for street use.

Oh yeah... I've heard of that...lol Guess it was kinda a smack in my face for asking what kiss was. I just showed my true colors....stupid lol

Without knowing the specs of the cam, 90% of all Street/Strip cams are entirely streetable. Its just basically down to when you want the power to come on and how big of a lope at idle.

If I could see the specs of the cam, I could figure on whether or not its a big street cam.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K12-433-8/

Basic Operating RPM Range
2,500-6,000Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
236Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
242Duration at 050 inch Lift
236 int./242 exh.Advertised Intake Duration
288Advertised Exhaust Duration
294Advertised Duration
288 int./294 exh.

That is actually a very good street cam. You could probably go a little bigger, but I don't know what your head work on Intake manifold is. Very nice choice though.

yea--you should have good vacuum with that grind.
KISS is a rule i have to remind myself all the time--i have a habit of "over thinking" things a bit:)

get a vid of when you fire it up!!
i would really like a picture of the underside once it all is in:)
OD

First fire up??? well ya know I have a new cam I have to break in so it's got to sit up at around 2000 to 2500 to slash a good amount of oil up there for a good break in. Plus I'll only be running the headers at that point....new rings on a old bore well motor didn't have a lot of miles on the old bore..but still it isn't a fresh bore or homed engine...so it's going to take a while for these rings to seat well. So she is going to smoke pretty good at first.

But anyways I've been sick...so I've been working but not a whole lot. Plus I have two other cars that I'd doing transmission rebuilds on and then another that I got to swap a engine. So with being sick I really don't feel like working on my own once I've worked on the others.

understand that dude--take it easy and let the ole body recover. Thats comes 1st.
Oh and I understand that the engine will have to be in a "break in" mode --it just that if you do post a vid--it will be the 1st such vid of a v8 sound coming from a rx8 car that I know off.
the amount of hits that vid will take would be unbelieveable?

I dunno maybe its me, but when I've rebuilt and engine, I just take it out and beat the fuck out of it for like 500 miles, change the oil, and then baby it for 1000 miles or so and its good to go.

Roller cam engines don't really have any "break-in" that gets done in the driveway (no load). turn the key, get your timing/jetting close and go for a drive!

well according to comp cams...I should idle it up to 2000 rpm and keep it there for a good 30 minutes for a good break in..and then change the oil.

i say beak the fuck out of it. but thats just me....

Well to let ya all know...tonight I finished putting the motor together and stuck it in the car for the very last time. Did some half ass wiring and bumped it over to hear it try and start. My battery was dead!!!! :( But anyways tomorrow we'll be making the brackets for the radiator and mounting that. Then it will be the wiring part.

Anyone know anything about the starting side of things??? I wired my starter up and tried to start it with the key and I could hear the relay clicking...but it wasn't sending juice to the starter to kick the solenoid. So I ended up just doing a jumper for now. But could it of been that my battery was dead or does the cpu control the cranking over as well??

I dont understand buying an RX8 and then taking the heart of it away... they are a unique breed and you just turn into something else... i would never do that and you could never justify it to me either..