Originally Posted by Carbon8 (Post 4544428)

Drop you oil pan, replace the regulator and install 3 washers.

Clean up the pan and the block, reapply RTV gasket and put the pan back on, done!

Should take 30-60 mins depending on how long your pan has been on

Originally Posted by MountainMike68 (Post 4544454)

Originally Posted by DarkBrew (Post 4544498)

Highly optimistic time estimate.

The new RTV alone requires an hour of set-up time before torquing the pan bolts...

Removing the pan without the right tools and without a lift is a struggle... A 90 degree tool to cut through the RTV would help a lot with pan removal. You don't want to gouge the metal.

The regulators require large and deep sockets which you may not have so check tool requirement first.

A good oil pan clean-up requires removing the baffles so allow a bit of time for that.

For a careful amateur like me it was more like 6 hours... except for an error which required a re-do... Almost a whole night under the car...

Really worth it to see the high pressure on the gauge.

Originally Posted by bse50 (Post 4544640)

Yep, that's what you should do.
Or just torque it down and don't give a fudge about what's going to happen ;)

Originally Posted by pelensky (Post 4544638)

Funny you mention it. I do have a lift in my garage. I did buy the new Mazda RTV because I am updated my 04 oil pan with the new sensor.

When you say to let it set 1 hour before torqueing it down, does that mean pre-install in and apply light torque to the pan bolts or do I just apply the RTV to the pan, let it sit one hour before even putting it on the engine?

Originally Posted by DarkBrew (Post 4544772)

You can just follow the instructions... LOL

You apply light pressure till the RTV spreads a bit, wait an hour, then torque to spec.

Originally Posted by Brettus (Post 4547285)

or : just squash the end of the stock regulator in a press like i did .

I like free mods ...............

Originally Posted by Brettus (Post 4547285)

or : just squash the end of the stock regulator in a press like i did .

I like free mods ...............

Originally Posted by archon (Post 4753687)

What did you do for shims in the front oil pressure regulator?

Not to resurrect an old thread or anything. I've got a stack of m5 washers I can use (1/8" right?), is this any different from the Mazda/aftermarket parts?

Originally Posted by olddragger (Post 3299447)

thats the point i made earier.
during normal every day driving with heavier wgt oil at 4K there is a good chance that we are in the range of the rear bypass limit. Thereby not filtering all the oil.
get a magnet on the filter may help some as Ash pointed out and I also have done.

The mod on the rear bypass and front bypass is not hard to do if you have been working on cars some. Make SURE you keep things as clean as you possibily can. Drop the pan, remove the rear and front regulators/bypass, do the crush with a hydrolic press, or have a machine shop do it--or buy a new one (93-95) from MazdaTrix for $31, then add 2 shims --total 1/8 inch to the front bypass, then use the 09 filter(for its own increased bypass pressure) or something like a Fram hp2-6. Hell--even a Pure One Purolater has a filter that will fit and is twice as big as the oem although I am not sure of its bypass pressure.
Reinstall (careful with the pan bolts) CLEANLY and refill with a diesel oil or whatever you want to do and thats it.
Should take maybe 2 hrs?
OD