RX-8 Symptoms and Causes
12-13-2016, 02:09 PM
#26
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12-23-2016, 06:26 AM
#27
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I'm new to the rx8.
I just bought a manual 2004 rx8. When I bought the car the check engine Light was on. I got it read and the codes came up telling me I needed a new coil. Also it had a bad battery. So the battery was replaced. So was the spark plugs, spark plug wires and the coils.
After we got it all replaced we started the car. Happy to say it started. But the problem starts here. When it idles it's idling at like 700rpm and unless I'm giving it gas to be over 1500rpm it stalls out. Then it won't start back up until the engine cools.
Please help. What could be the problem. I'm don't have money to take it to the dealer to get it diagnosed.
And like I said I just got the car and who knows if the owner before me actually took care and kept up with taking care of the car.
I just bought a manual 2004 rx8. When I bought the car the check engine Light was on. I got it read and the codes came up telling me I needed a new coil. Also it had a bad battery. So the battery was replaced. So was the spark plugs, spark plug wires and the coils.
After we got it all replaced we started the car. Happy to say it started. But the problem starts here. When it idles it's idling at like 700rpm and unless I'm giving it gas to be over 1500rpm it stalls out. Then it won't start back up until the engine cools.
Please help. What could be the problem. I'm don't have money to take it to the dealer to get it diagnosed.
And like I said I just got the car and who knows if the owner before me actually took care and kept up with taking care of the car.
Start engine hold at 3k rpm for more than 20sec then rise to 5k rpm for more than 20sec come off the throttle slowly to prevent stalling let idle for over 2min do not press anything not even the clutch switch off remove key then go for a drive it will then lern how to idle again.
12-23-2016, 05:33 PM
#28
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Still not a troubleshooting thread.
Where's Pearl when we need him?
Where's Pearl when we need him?
02-06-2017, 02:33 PM
#29
Registered
Please help. My engine sezied you may say. The engine did start, it ran. But stalled at a stop sign, and never started again. I was taking it to four functions to have ignition done. They checked spark plugs and everything, it wasnt flooded. (i had to get it towed there) put a new battery, tried jumping. It used to spin you could say but didnt fire up. Then it would just click but thats it. Engine had 20xxx km on it. But no warranty because i bought it used. They gave me an educated guess saying eccentric shaft broke. Said they could do engine inspection for 1400$(Canadian). Please tell me if thats worth it? They suggested id be better off with a new enginie. What step should i take? Get it inspected and take the risk or wait for new engine? Car has total of 180xxxkm on it. Please help. Thankyou in advance
07-31-2017, 07:06 PM
#30
I have read ad seen videos of Rexes that can't start due to a clogged catalytic converter. You could hear that the engine wants to start and rev up, but it simply can't because the backpressure is too great to overcome. What are your thoughts? I can't start my car and I've been hearing alot of rustling in the cat (which I presume) so I believe it's clogged.
03-17-2018, 08:58 AM
#34
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
It tells you what to look for, also, it's not a troubleshooting thread, says so in the first post.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/
04-10-2018, 07:40 PM
#35
Tried to make my own thread but couldnt
This is my first post, so sorry if I'm in the wrong area. I'm having issues with my clutch pedal. When I first drive my car in the morning, everything is fine, but when I have some fun with my car, the clutch pedal starts to feel different. Normally I'll have about half an inch to an inch before I feel some resistance, but when it acts up, it seems it can go about 25-35% of the way until I feel resistance. Also, when it acts up, the clutch starts to engage when I hardly lift the pedal off the floor, when at normal times, I can bring the pedal up a little more before it starts to catch. If I drive the car normally from point a to b, it seems fine. Other times it'll act up is when I leave the car running for awhile, like today...I washed and vacuumed my car but when I was vacuuming it, I left it running for about 30-45 min and it started to feel as if it was acting up. I'm really hoping it's not the clutch going out....but I have a strong feeling it's the clutch slave cylinder. Thinking once the slave cylinder gets too hot, my problem starts. Again, sorry if I'm in the wrong section, was going to post my own thread, but can't seem to post a new one yet. And ty in advance for all the input 
04-11-2018, 11:24 AM
#36
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
This isn't a troubleshooting thread.
You don't need to start another thread.
Post in an existing thread related to your issue in the TROUBLESHOOTING section.
You don't need to start another thread.
Post in an existing thread related to your issue in the TROUBLESHOOTING section.
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Lethal RX-8 (04-11-2018)
04-18-2018, 01:57 PM
#37
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So i ended up taking off my whole... exhaust replaced the cat,O2 sensor at the cat, the header, plugs, coils, flushed the coolent, and threw out that 35 Red top battery and threw in a 35 Yellow top battery. was having cranking issues aswell but all in all im pritty shur it was the cat. that was the problem "took it off and it was raddling " i figured it was gana be like the rx7 ... wont do hot starts after the aftermarket header now though.. the reni in mine is about do for a rebuild anyway ...just hoping its not anytime soon .... been going strong for over 5 years now "with me" about 110,000mls now.
04-19-2018, 05:08 AM
#38
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High guys,
I really need your help before spending any more money.
My 8's DSC light is permanently on.
I tried everything I know until now, like:
a. Main switch on and fast pressing the brake pedal, until the needle in oil pressure gauge moves, RESULT: nothing
b. Main switch on, turn the steering wheel to the end left and to the end right, switched off and after that start the engine, RESULT: nothing.
c. Checked for any fuse unplugged, everything OK.
d. I've driven the car for more than 1000miles and the DSC light is still on.
e. I plugged a diagnosis PC into OBD2, erased all the shown errors, RESULT: nothing.
BUT, there is another issue, the battery light is also permanently ON.
The voltage indication through ScanGauge is 13,2 maybe 13,4 Volts.
I know the alternator doesn't charge the battery well.
The technician seemed pretty sure and suggested that as soon as we replace the alternator with a new one and we get a correct voltage like 14,5V, the battery light will turn off, and all the DSC systems will be back on line (which means the DSC light will turn off, I guess).
Has any of you came across with the same DSC malefaction..??
Any suggestions?
Do you think the problem with DSC starts because of the insufficient alternator...???
Please advise..!!!!
Thank you in advance.
I really need your help before spending any more money.
My 8's DSC light is permanently on.
I tried everything I know until now, like:
a. Main switch on and fast pressing the brake pedal, until the needle in oil pressure gauge moves, RESULT: nothing
b. Main switch on, turn the steering wheel to the end left and to the end right, switched off and after that start the engine, RESULT: nothing.
c. Checked for any fuse unplugged, everything OK.
d. I've driven the car for more than 1000miles and the DSC light is still on.
e. I plugged a diagnosis PC into OBD2, erased all the shown errors, RESULT: nothing.
BUT, there is another issue, the battery light is also permanently ON.
The voltage indication through ScanGauge is 13,2 maybe 13,4 Volts.
I know the alternator doesn't charge the battery well.
The technician seemed pretty sure and suggested that as soon as we replace the alternator with a new one and we get a correct voltage like 14,5V, the battery light will turn off, and all the DSC systems will be back on line (which means the DSC light will turn off, I guess).
Has any of you came across with the same DSC malefaction..??
Any suggestions?
Do you think the problem with DSC starts because of the insufficient alternator...???
Please advise..!!!!
Thank you in advance.
04-19-2018, 07:16 AM
#39
You gonna eat that?
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04-19-2018, 07:35 AM
#40
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05-10-2018, 11:45 AM
#41
A little frustrated...
Hey guys - can't seem to post a new thread - and the searches I have done don't quite match my challenge. Here goes - hopefully someone will direct me to where I need to go to post this properly.
2004 with 87 Km (54,000 Miles) on it won't start. starter whirs away but no compression.
probably 3000 km since new starter, coils, wires, plugs etc last spring.
Dealer: their RX8 expert (he really is an Rx8 expert) has spent 4 hours doing a diagnosis - says there was fuel on the plugs (now cleared) and engine now de-flooded and now want to charge by the hour to go any further - but they believe the issue is the engine and think replacing it is the answer. Given the cost they are quoting to do that is almost the same as the $ I could get by selling said vehicle... (8K) doesn't seem like a good answer.
The car has not been driven over the winter, except briefly, once in February - at which point it started up pretty easily (battery was dead - boosted - and then fine! Alarm went off during boost - pulled the horn fuse - put it back - all good.) Idled for a bit then drove around the block 2-3 times until engine warmed up. Shut it down. When last driven hard (last fall) everything was wonderful - easy start - tons of power - everything like one expects from an Rx* in great shape.
Attempted to start last week - nothing but whirring. Not even a mild attempt at compression. Towed to the dealer - and prognosis this morning as above.
I'm an idiot when it comes to engines, but it feels like seals. Any other thoughts? And rebuild engine? or scrap it? It's hard to deal with this sudden death thing... After I put in the new wires / starter / plugs it was just running so damn well!
2004 with 87 Km (54,000 Miles) on it won't start. starter whirs away but no compression.
probably 3000 km since new starter, coils, wires, plugs etc last spring.
Dealer: their RX8 expert (he really is an Rx8 expert) has spent 4 hours doing a diagnosis - says there was fuel on the plugs (now cleared) and engine now de-flooded and now want to charge by the hour to go any further - but they believe the issue is the engine and think replacing it is the answer. Given the cost they are quoting to do that is almost the same as the $ I could get by selling said vehicle... (8K) doesn't seem like a good answer.
The car has not been driven over the winter, except briefly, once in February - at which point it started up pretty easily (battery was dead - boosted - and then fine! Alarm went off during boost - pulled the horn fuse - put it back - all good.) Idled for a bit then drove around the block 2-3 times until engine warmed up. Shut it down. When last driven hard (last fall) everything was wonderful - easy start - tons of power - everything like one expects from an Rx* in great shape.
Attempted to start last week - nothing but whirring. Not even a mild attempt at compression. Towed to the dealer - and prognosis this morning as above.
I'm an idiot when it comes to engines, but it feels like seals. Any other thoughts? And rebuild engine? or scrap it? It's hard to deal with this sudden death thing... After I put in the new wires / starter / plugs it was just running so damn well!
05-10-2018, 01:32 PM
#42
What am I doing here?
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Unfortunately, "no compression" is mostly meaningless.
Compression is a quantifiable value. If your dealer hasn't done a compression test and given you those results, you need to ask for them. You should get 3 pressures and an RPM for front and back rotors (8 numbers total).
It would be a very rare circumstance that could cause a Renesis to have literally 0 psi across all rotor faces.
Compression is a quantifiable value. If your dealer hasn't done a compression test and given you those results, you need to ask for them. You should get 3 pressures and an RPM for front and back rotors (8 numbers total).
It would be a very rare circumstance that could cause a Renesis to have literally 0 psi across all rotor faces.
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gavinpitchford (05-10-2018)
05-10-2018, 01:52 PM
#43
Neophyte... so forgive the stupid question ... but I think to get those values the engine would have to actually start? or not?
I have a call in to get the details again (they grabbed me going into a meeting and spewed a bunch of stuff at me - and now my service advisor is out) but I gathered they couldn't get it started or even to turn over.
The starter itself is new last year and fine. Here's what I heard I think: "The plugs were partially (or fully?) submerged in fuel - plugs removed, fuel was removed, airblown dry and replaced. We de-flooded it - something else - something else - no compression. Wouldn't start. We can keep diagnosing but hourly rate applies no guarantee we determine problem. "
Me: Given it worked fine in February, Does that likely mean seals?
Them: we don't rebuild engines. We can keep diagnosing but hourly rate applies no guarantee we determine problem. You might need to replace the engine"
I'd love even some advice on what questions to ask the mechanic to better understand the problem - and the prospects for a happy ending.
I have a call in to get the details again (they grabbed me going into a meeting and spewed a bunch of stuff at me - and now my service advisor is out) but I gathered they couldn't get it started or even to turn over.
The starter itself is new last year and fine. Here's what I heard I think: "The plugs were partially (or fully?) submerged in fuel - plugs removed, fuel was removed, airblown dry and replaced. We de-flooded it - something else - something else - no compression. Wouldn't start. We can keep diagnosing but hourly rate applies no guarantee we determine problem. "
Me: Given it worked fine in February, Does that likely mean seals?
Them: we don't rebuild engines. We can keep diagnosing but hourly rate applies no guarantee we determine problem. You might need to replace the engine"
I'd love even some advice on what questions to ask the mechanic to better understand the problem - and the prospects for a happy ending.
05-10-2018, 04:56 PM
#44
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Neophyte... so forgive the stupid question ... but I think to get those values the engine would have to actually start? or not?
I have a call in to get the details again (they grabbed me going into a meeting and spewed a bunch of stuff at me - and now my service advisor is out) but I gathered they couldn't get it started or even to turn over.
The starter itself is new last year and fine. Here's what I heard I think: "The plugs were partially (or fully?) submerged in fuel - plugs removed, fuel was removed, airblown dry and replaced. We de-flooded it - something else - something else - no compression. Wouldn't start. We can keep diagnosing but hourly rate applies no guarantee we determine problem. "
Me: Given it worked fine in February, Does that likely mean seals?
Them: we don't rebuild engines. We can keep diagnosing but hourly rate applies no guarantee we determine problem. You might need to replace the engine"
I'd love even some advice on what questions to ask the mechanic to better understand the problem - and the prospects for a happy ending.
I have a call in to get the details again (they grabbed me going into a meeting and spewed a bunch of stuff at me - and now my service advisor is out) but I gathered they couldn't get it started or even to turn over.
The starter itself is new last year and fine. Here's what I heard I think: "The plugs were partially (or fully?) submerged in fuel - plugs removed, fuel was removed, airblown dry and replaced. We de-flooded it - something else - something else - no compression. Wouldn't start. We can keep diagnosing but hourly rate applies no guarantee we determine problem. "
Me: Given it worked fine in February, Does that likely mean seals?
Them: we don't rebuild engines. We can keep diagnosing but hourly rate applies no guarantee we determine problem. You might need to replace the engine"
I'd love even some advice on what questions to ask the mechanic to better understand the problem - and the prospects for a happy ending.
I'm betting It's just flooded from a weak battery.
Happened to me twice in 3 years, which seems to be about as long as a regular battery will last on 8s.
05-10-2018, 05:28 PM
#45
Not the battery. It was originally perhaps the cause of the flooded engiine. Now a brand new battery all fully charged up. Before i had it towed i replaced battery and also ran jumpers to a chev suburban. No shortage of juice. Not my first rodeo with rx 8 starting issues. I have always at least got it to cough... nuttin.
05-10-2018, 06:19 PM
#46
Smoking turbo yay
Is it an auto or 6-speed?
Is the cranking noise strong or it sounds kinda weak? They should be able to read the cranking RPM as well.
On a related note: you need a proper charger for your battery. A jumper is good for emergency use, but a dedicated charger is the best as car batteries prefer trickle charging(low current).
Also, do a compression test like NAP said, because that will tell you if you need a new engine or not.
Is the cranking noise strong or it sounds kinda weak? They should be able to read the cranking RPM as well.
On a related note: you need a proper charger for your battery. A jumper is good for emergency use, but a dedicated charger is the best as car batteries prefer trickle charging(low current).
Also, do a compression test like NAP said, because that will tell you if you need a new engine or not.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 05-10-2018 at 06:21 PM.
05-10-2018, 08:27 PM
#47
Starter (upgraded) plugs and Coils are less than 3000 km old. (Same rx8 mechanic at dealer)
battery is brand new. Truck connection was just to make sure a full on 12.5v charge after a number of tries
can you do a compression test if the engine won't start?
battery is brand new. Truck connection was just to make sure a full on 12.5v charge after a number of tries
can you do a compression test if the engine won't start?
05-11-2018, 12:10 PM
#48
to answer an earlier question: 6 speed (of course! why on earth buy this car in the automatic version?! LOL)
Service advisor back. this is the "report"
- checked and confirmed spark and fuel both getting to engine
- discovered flooded engine (possibly caused by repeated start attempts)
- followed Mazda service bulletin process TSB01-05-12 to deflood
- disabled 2nd air pump
- removed all plugs, removed fuel, blew clean / dry
- did something with the ESPS (my notes are sketchy)
- air in cylinders (notes sketchy again)
- sounds like no compression at all.
They say this took 4 hours - and it would take another 3 to do a compression test.
q1: Does that make sense?
q2: 3 hours for a compression test?
Repeat: the starter is very new upgraded starter, same time as new plugs and coils (~3000 km).
Since those replacements, absolutely no issues starting until this week.
Battery also brand new and fully charged.
Advice welcome and appreciated.
Service advisor back. this is the "report"
- checked and confirmed spark and fuel both getting to engine
- discovered flooded engine (possibly caused by repeated start attempts)
- followed Mazda service bulletin process TSB01-05-12 to deflood
- disabled 2nd air pump
- removed all plugs, removed fuel, blew clean / dry
- did something with the ESPS (my notes are sketchy)
- air in cylinders (notes sketchy again)
- sounds like no compression at all.
They say this took 4 hours - and it would take another 3 to do a compression test.
q1: Does that make sense?
q2: 3 hours for a compression test?
Repeat: the starter is very new upgraded starter, same time as new plugs and coils (~3000 km).
Since those replacements, absolutely no issues starting until this week.
Battery also brand new and fully charged.
Advice welcome and appreciated.
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gavinpitchford (05-11-2018)
