Running into more problems.
 

So I just recently replaced my clutch with the Excedy oem and I also replaced the spark plugs and the battery as well. The car ran fine for the first week and now I the car won't stay on. Turns on after a very weak/rough idle but turns off in less than 5 seconds. The only way it would stay on is if I give it gas and when I did that and try to drive, the car would turn off when I put it in neutral when coming to a stop, then the engine light starts blinking. I'm taking it to the dealership for diagnosis but I would like to know if any of you guys ran into the same problem so I know what to expect.

Sounds like coils are shot.

Are you having it towed?
If you can drive it, I would suggest taking it to a parts store to get your codes scanned.
A flashing CEL means misfires.
If you were able to change your own plugs, I would suggest you change the coils & wires also.
Dealership will charge outrageous prices for something that is easily done with a DIY.

An option...

With the car cold, disconnect the battery for a few hours. Reconnect it and start the car. Let is sit until it idles low and happy. This will take about 15 minutes. The ECU is re-learning everything. If it starts hunting for idle bad, give it a little gas, then let of easily. Or, turn on the AC (bumps up idle speed). Once it idles, go for an easy drive, short shifts, easy stops. It can learn to go fast later.

If you do not let ECU learn, it picks up some bad habits and is a bitch to sort out. And, the process above is a lot cheaper than the dealer. You might also want to check plug and coil wires for tightness as well, and all the connectors on the trans (neutral switch is tied to idle control). And, get any codes, pending or otherwise, read.

Good Luck.

Yes I'm having it towed to the dealership 1st thing Monday morning, and I know they charge outrages prices for parts and labor but I'll just let the check it out and tell me what needs to be done, and find an alternative as far as prices.

Thanks 04Green, I actually went and turned it on earlier this morning (cold) with no problem and it didnt turn off.

Deal ain't going to help they 1 will tell you nothing is wrong 2 tell you your engine needs replaced 3 tell you your tiers are bad 4 give you a long list to witch non of it has any thing to do with your problem. No matter what hapens they more than likely will be of little or no help. Finding a dealer that is truthful and helpful is like finding a unicorn humping a Pegasus.

Not always, and thats probably my best option as of now.

Got it checked and no misfire code, the only code that read was 0171 code. Apparently my MAF tube was a little loose and I do need an oil change. Wol keep you guys updated.

See this is why I don't go to a dealer any more. MAF tube? Was the MAF lose? Or you intake tube? There is no MAF tube

Stay away from the dealer. There are plenty of experienced rotary specialists that are sponsors on this forum. A leak in the intake tract would cause poor running/stalling in a maf car, but I'd like to know exactly what they fixed.

Yeah he intake was loose. I decided to not go to the dealer in the last minute and went to my mechanic and showed me that indeed it was loose and that's what triggered the stalling and blinking CEL.

How did this get that way? I've never seen clamps back off have you had it in a shop for air filter change? Some one might have left it like that either by mistake of just to get you back for more $. With messing with the dealer always get a second opinion and never trust they did everything right or even did it at all.

I believe they accidentally left it loose when they were working on my clutch, but they didn't charge me for it because.

By the way is it normal for the car to stall a couple of times when you replace you battery? I replace my old battery with an optimum red top and did the steering wheel procedure to reset the ECU. It drive fine until I came to a stop the car would stall. Until I reached my destination and it started idling like it was about to stall but eventually maintained the normal operating temperature.

yes its re learning fuel trims. should be fine after a few drives

Ok thanks, yeah it's fine now I just wanted to know if that was normal. Speaking of the Optimum RedTop battery, what do you guys use to keep it stable in the battery holder/protected?

Mine just sits in there never had it move and I have been known to pull a G or so on the back roads

Edit
I just noticed you said they took it lose when fixing your clutch again I would ask why your intake has nothing to do with your clutch.

my redtop came with a spacer that snaps on the bottom of the battery and i use the factory battery tie down.

That's I'm saying, maybe one of their mechanics was jealous lol but they didn't charge me for it or tell me anything other than that being the problem. But yeah 200, my RedTop didn't come with a spacer, was it supposed to? I purchased it from my local Advance Auto.

yep when you buy it its snapped on top of the battery. you move it to the bottom of the battery when you install it because the red top is shorter than the factory one

I did get one ether with my batt

Did or didn't nite? And thanks 200 I'll go check that out when I get out of work.

this is the cover on the top when you buy it. it needs to be remover to get to the terminals. then you just snat it on the bottom

Ooh now I know. See I didn't get that top cover :mad: there's probably an alternative to that right?

I didn't (stupide smart phone) get one but go figure I got mine at auto zone (almost as bad as the dealership) morons around here that work most of these places don't even know how to change their oil.