No start, ess or vacuum leak?
No start, p0335, p0171, p0300, pending 302 and p0171. Car died after ripping it in second, earlier in the day maf popped out while driving. I believe my ess is dirty or dead as 180k, I have not cleaned since purchase after car sat for 5 years. I'll be throwing it on the lift at lunch and cleaning it.
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You probably also have a vacuum leak in addition to the CSPS. The P0300 and P0302 codes are misfires. Usually linked to poor ignition system components. When was the last time you changed out coils, spark plugs and wires? To confirm vacuum leak you want to look at short term fuel trims. It should be sitting at 0%. If you get 5% this will confirm a vacuum leak exists. These would be my first steps
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Originally Posted by CaymanRotary
(Post 4922112)
You probably also have a vacuum leak in addition to the CSPS. The P0300 and P0302 codes are misfires. Usually linked to poor ignition system components. When was the last time you changed out coils, spark plugs and wires? To confirm vacuum leak you want to look at short term fuel trims. It should be sitting at 0%. If you get 5% this will confirm a vacuum leak exists. These would be my first steps
Edit: after working on the car for a couple hours, it will start now only with a boost (on the way out battery but up until whatever broke, it's done the job) and it blurbles, idles very roughly, definitely missing every few second, give it gas and she dies. I sprayed carb cleaner all over the upper intake manifold and throttle body, and sprayed every vacuum line I could access. Long term fuel trims are at 22.6% idling short term fluctuates from -5% (rare) to anything up to 20% at one point. I will be (regular) compression testing it tomorrow, as all this is leading me to believe |
If you can do a compression test first that's the better option. Remember, the car has to be able to get up to temperature before you can perform it. If the engine is actually toast (I dont think this is the case just yet) it will save a bit of cash buying parts to run a broken engine. Sounds like you may also need a new starter. How fast is it cranking?
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Originally Posted by CaymanRotary
(Post 4922182)
If you can do a compression test first that's the better option. Remember, the car has to be able to get up to temperature before you can perform it. If the engine is actually toast (I dont think this is the case just yet) it will save a bit of cash buying parts to run a broken engine. Sounds like you may also need a new starter. How fast is it cranking?
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The engine I'm willing to bet is fine. It's likely some other problem that's causing the problems you are having. A lot of the time these cars are diagnosed with low compression even without a compression test being done! Its madness but it benefits those who know what they are looking at.
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Originally Posted by CaymanRotary
(Post 4922240)
The engine I'm willing to bet is fine. It's likely some other problem that's causing the problems you are having. A lot of the time these cars are diagnosed with low compression even without a compression test being done! Its madness but it benefits those who know what they are looking at.
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Originally Posted by smurfboiblue
(Post 4922246)
warmed engine, removed fuel fuse, removed spark plug, (regular) compression tested, 50psi from the rear. RIP. It was a fun couple months. Now I guess looking for an engine or I'm selling the car.
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