LOVE THE THREAD! As always, exceptional write up.

but.. how low is too low? Youve seen my car in person, is it too low? Winter is a comin' and im thinking about switching to coils or just not driving in the snow.

Springs
(Can cause warranty issues with bumper to bumper if lowered excessively or on too-stiff springs)

also... this was interesting.

AC on and windows up is better mileage than AC off and windows down, unless you are staying under ~40-50mph, when it starts to swing the other direction.

What is your opinion on using a bucket seat with an oem belt? I have heard of people getting into accidents and the airbag worked as it should and no problems arose. If done on the 8, ill have to dig that thread up that allows you to trick the sensor.. Maybe ill just leave it to the 93 without an airbag

Oh i would also add the little bit about the when adding a midpipe/ taking the cat out.

 

Great read! Thanks for sharing!

 

tl;dr.

Somebody had to say it... where can I get some cheap exhaust? I wantz moar pauah...

 

bravo RIWWP every owner/newb/and prospect buyer should have this subbed.

 

1) It's subjective, like everything else in the realm of suspension. But, from my fight with Toyota warranty years back, I came across information that dealerships can note "excessive" suspension changes in warranty submissions. This is due to how suspension changes can end up affecting vehicle vibrations, stresses, etc...

2) Yes. I've proved that out several times over the last few months of commuting with the 8 at about half a tank of gas per day. Anyone can check it out with an AP or other ODB2 live logger as well. Fire up engine load display on a straight and level road, set the cruise control, and watch (not more than the road of course) the load go up when you turn on the AC, with the windows down or moonroof open. The AC changes it, but only slightly. Opening the windows and/or the moonroof is much greater of a load increase for the same speed.

3) Meshing track and road technologies isn't an exact science. My personal opinion is that 'race seats' on the road don't make an impact to overall safety, except perhaps improving it a bit. Regardless of seat, I wouldn't want to wear a harness on the street unless I also have a HANS device. Keeping your body immobile while your head isn't will increase neck damage. OEM cars and safety equipment assume that the body will be moving to some degree.

4) I think i will pass on the flames bit. As juvenile as the fun is (which I will readily admit to enjoying), I don't want to encourage newbies to get a midpipe "for flames". I'd rather encourage them to get it for engine health and more power instead.

At least you were the first one to say it, as you were the first non-staff to read it through and make suggestions

 

Shhh....
And read the pm

 

I did, just replied to one relevant to this thread...

 

Grreat write up I will come back to finish reading later

 

great job Pearl

 

15 PMs and counting this morning. Many changes rolling through. Enough added to Suspension that it passed the 20,000 character limit and required expansion into a 2nd post, and shifted down everything after it.


Keep it coming...

 

Great post RIWWP! I have made this thread a favourite because I had just bought my 2005 with extended warranty from mazda and wanted to know what I could get away with and keep the warranty intact. Thank you everyone involved in the creation of this thread.

 

Flooded with things to adjust/update. A short list here for the changes coming:

Adjustments to information points:
- Additional midpipe options and detail coming from multiple people
- CRH indicated he will get me more clarity on lightweight flywheels
- Sway bars getting re-done and cleaned up thanks to some helpful links sent by BRODA
- Multiple general suspension points to add

New points getting added:
- Lots of information for aftermarket catalytic converters from HiFlight and BRODA
- Weightloss is being asked for, though i have little information personally on this. Anyone with real details that can share or point me to them would be appreciated
- Catch Cans
- Engine mounts

Cautions and tips getting added for:
- Brakes
- Intakes
- Headers


Am still working today, so many of these items won't get added till late tonight (EST)

 

Vcoil is mr weight loss.

 

I'll stop PMing you

take your time Pearl
don't kill yourself getting it done
you're helping us out

 

Just finished reading. Great thread!!!

 

Maybe something on gauges? https://www.rx8club.com/interior-aud...stalls-231245/

Installs are irrelevant. But, people may want to know which gauges would best compliment a particular set up of mods (ie FI, DD, track, etc)

 

After reading this a few times, and reading EricMeyers explanation a couple times. (excellent read by the way I didn't know it was there. Thanks for the link.) I think I've come to a pretty clear understanding about this. Which is why I think this topic needs a bit more discussion.

I think that disconnecting the end links for alignment should come with a foot note.
*For alignment, cars equipped with adjustable endlinks should be disconnected from the sway bar and then readjusted after alignment before reconnected.
*Cars with fixed, non-adjustable, endlinks should remain attached during alignment.

Let me explain:

Eric makes a big deal about endlink length and about keeping them neutral with no "preload" if you will. If you dis-regard the advice about using the sway bars to correct over-steer and under-steer, the underlying formula is that they remain neutral.
That leads me to believe that he disconnects the links during adjustments as to not "preload" the suspension during those adjustments with the sway bars. Then adjusts the links back to a neutral state before reattaching them.

That being said, whenever you make suspension adjustments with fixed, non-adjustable endlinks connected, you are simultaneously adjusting the car and "preloading" the sway bar. They will work together and your adjustments will be unaffected by the sway bar's tension.

If you disconnect the fixed endlinks, then make your adjustments, the endlinks will no longer be in a neutral state. You will have to pull or push the bar to get the links to line up again. In doing so, you will then negate your adjustments from before by introducing a loaded force onto your suspension that was not there during the adjustments.

It seems to me, and Im just coming to terms with it myself, that when lowering the car, adjustable endlinks should be included in someones list of things to get when they are sourcing for lowering kits. It seems to be the only way to achieve neutral tension on the sway bar for making adjustments.

 

That seems completely reasonable and follows the theory set forth accurately. I will adjust to that footnote accordingly unless a suspension expert chimes in with information to the contrary.

 

Awesome. I was looking the other day for some older thread on gauges. Thanks for posting this link.

 

Excellent work.....one of the best things I've seen on here in awhile.

 

Subscribing...

 

Amazing write up and great thread! I read most of this at work. I found this very useful, and I second the idea of noobs being linked to this thread! Good job RIWWP.

 

thanks for making this list!!!

 

Awesome write-up. I love reading through these compilation lists. Even if I walk away paranoid about the ultimate demise of my engine. Now off to chip my ECU and cut my springs.

BTW: That basic socket set lets you work on everything on that Honda or Toyota you drive while rebuilding the Renesis. (Speaking as a former specialist in a large shop full of guys obsessed with small blocks.)

 

RIWWP, you say the ECU tune will void warranty if found; is it possible for the dealership to determine that you have been using the Accessport if it is uninstalled before taking the car in?

Is it possible for them to view some sort of history that indicates a modified tune has previously been run on the ECU?