new member about to buy - hot start issue
hi guys, hope this is the right place, to post I'm looking at buying a rx8 which has a hot start issue, not been able to look around the rex properly just yet, but from what the guy says its drives and starts fine other then when its hot, to which i have been told could be down to a few things, most commonly low compression but also mentioned was crappy battery slow old model starter, crappy terminals on battery among other things, i know as a rough price engine rebuild is around 1500 mark, its a 2003 228bhp model with around 80.000 miles thats about all i know at the moment, just wanting some pre buy advice really as to what to look out for as in more signs of low compression as i am un able to get hold of a rotary compression tester and the normal ones are no good for testing so any advice on what to look out for or what to check that could help confirm the low compression without a comp test would be great... sorry if this post is little all over the place lol... IM A NOOB lol....
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Pass. While it could be other things, without a proper compression test there is way too much risk that 1500 buys you another 3000 worth of problems.
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Originally Posted by Loki
(Post 4755250)
Pass. While it could be other things, without a proper compression test there is way too much risk that 1500 buys you another 3000 worth of problems.
Hi I forgot to mention the guy only wants 500 for the car is it is right now with the hot start issue is its till worth a buy ? I've arranged a compression testa friend of mine is a Mitsubishi tech however he only has a standard tester but has assured me the test he can do will be good enough to determine if it's shafted or not.. |
The standard tester will tell you if the engine is fully blown or not, but if it starts cold, then it's not fully blown. So.. rotaries are a bit special, you can't really translate piston concepts to them.
Whether 500 is worth it is up to you, just keep in mind you risk needing a new engine which is what about 3000 pounds in the UK? So your net out-of-pocket cost is 500+ whatever the engine cost is + your time running around fixing it. Can you get a known-good car for the same amount? |
Originally Posted by garyross
(Post 4755269)
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Hi I forgot to mention the guy only wants 500 for the car is it is right now with the hot start issue is its till worth a buy ? I've arranged a compression testa friend of mine is a Mitsubishi tech however he only has a standard tester but has assured me the test he can do will be good enough to determine if it's shafted or not.. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...98852122e1.jpg This works perfect every time! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...a0fd1f50f0.jpg RotaryCompressionTester.com |
Loki is right, if you're looking for a car to drive and not have to worry about fixing before you can use it, pass. Plenty of other fish in the sea.
That being said, if you have an extra 500 sitting around and want it for a parts or project car, then by all means, go ahead and buy it. know that an engine rebuild will probably run you $3000-$4000 USD and if that is not something you intend on doing, you really dont have any use for the vehicle. By the sounds of it, its on its way out and your seller didnt feel like taking a loan out to get his car running again. If that's your cup of tea, so be it, but just know that you're probably walking into a pretty extensive bill or a very involved project. Aside from all this, if you're considering buying any rx8, do yourself a favor and read the new owners and congratulations you got an 8 threads in the stickies. They have a ton of information that you need if you intend on owning this vehicle. Lastly, if you arnt budgeting for a very near future rebuild with your car purchase, DO NOT BUY an RX-8 without a rotary specific compression test. Most of them are around $100 usd at a mazda dealership. I have posted numerous times in depth descriptions of what you need to get out of a compression test, search through my recent posts and i'm sure you will find the information you will need there. |
My car started acting up when warm. It would take more cranks to start and then it kind of stumble started. I thought bad compression. But I cleaned the ess and everything cleared right up. 2 or 3 cranks of the engine now when hot and it's off to the races.
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Originally Posted by 1.21 gigawatts!!!
(Post 4755801)
My car started acting up when warm. It would take more cranks to start and then it kind of stumble started. I thought bad compression. But I cleaned the ess and everything cleared right up. 2 or 3 cranks of the engine now when hot and it's off to the races.
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is the cel flashing? if so you 99% of the time have a misfire. ess-eccentric shaft sensor. like a crank sensor. looking at fron to the car the biggest pulley is on the bottom. the sensor is about the 5 o clock position
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The ess is the eccentric shaft sensor. It's a magnetic sensor by the shaft pulley. Takes about 10-15 mins to clean it. I removed the air box and could see it no trouble. It gets coated in grime and mine had some metal flakes on it. This throws off the pickup. Best way I can explain it is to remove the airbox and look down at the eccentric shaft pulley (bottom pulley on the engine) you'll see a silver cylinder. That is your sensor. Take it off and clean it. Some people say they leave it on and wipe it. But I don't see how that's possible with it so close to the pulley. Besides there only one bolt holding. Give it a try you never know. Done wonders for me
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Originally Posted by 200.mph
(Post 4755947)
is the cel flashing? if so you 99% of the time have a misfire. ess-eccentric shaft sensor. like a crank sensor. looking at fron to the car the biggest pulley is on the bottom. the sensor is about the 5 o clock position
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Originally Posted by 1.21 gigawatts!!!
(Post 4755949)
The ess is the eccentric shaft sensor. It's a magnetic sensor by the shaft pulley. Takes about 10-15 mins to clean it. I removed the air box and could see it no trouble. It gets coated in grime and mine had some metal flakes on it. This throws off the pickup. Best way I can explain it is to remove the airbox and look down at the eccentric shaft pulley (bottom pulley on the engine) you'll see a silver cylinder. That is your sensor. Take it off and clean it. Some people say they leave it on and wipe it. But I don't see how that's possible with it so close to the pulley. Besides there only one bolt holding. Give it a try you never know. Done wonders for me
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did you do the 20 brake stomp? does it have the origional fuel pump?
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Originally Posted by 200.mph
(Post 4756245)
did you do the 20 brake stomp? does it have the origional fuel pump?
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Mine was hard to start when it got warmed up,low compression.
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