New Engine
 

Hello Everyone! I currently have a 2005 RX8 that I bought 2 months ago for 5k. It had 75k miles on it. I have always wanted a rotary engine car and I knew it would have some issues being so cheap. I love this car!! Then it started to have several issues so I had Mazda replace the shocks, struts, cat converter, exhaust system, coils, and plugs.

It drove great after that, however, I began to have the crazy start issue where it cranks forever before it turns on.:sad: I got the compression tested and the front rotor was at a 3, instead of a 7 which i think its supposed to be. (i have no idea about the compression rules).

So, since I love this car, I went ahead and had Mazda order a brand new engine for me from Japan. So hopefully when that gets put in, this car should run amazingly. They charged 3k for the engine, and I'm sure it will be another 1-2k for the labor. Ill keep you guys updated:evil_laug

All of the compression test information is here in the new owner's thread. That post and the next one.

You aren't getting a brand new engine though, you are getting a remanufactured engine. Mazda officially noted that there were no more brand new Renesis engines being made, and the supply of new ones was out, and that was a few years ago.

That being said with a reman, there are other considerations that you will have to keep in mind. The biggest problem point is that the remans are made with far too much sealant, which usually leads to a cooling system failure within 3,000 to 8,000 miles after installation if it isn't properly flushed. And even flushing could end up clogging the radiator, thermostat, or coolant bottle if there is enough larger pieces. So flush immediately, flush in 1,000 miles, and again at 3,000 miles. Monitor your cooling system and temps religiously, and if you catch the slightest hint of a problem, replace your radiator, coolant lines, coolant bottle, and thermostat. ~$500 in parts from Mazmart.

Also, since you are paying for the engine yourself, you should get a 12month 12,000 miles warranty on the engine. And since it sounds like you are shotgunning money at the dealership, I'm sure they will take care of you on that.

Yes, thank you for the information. They are going to put a new radiator in as well, pretty much everything from the front windshield out to the bumper, but I will follow those rules as well. I've wanted this car for a long time, so I know it will be a costly-relationship, but when she runs great, it is an amazing feeling!!

If they are replacing the radiator along with the engine, that isn't going to help what I am referring to, since your new radiator will just become clogged with the stuff.

The mileage information for flushing and replacing is there for a reason. It would be far better to clog up the old stuff and remove it all, then replace with new, clog the new, and have to replace again.

Oh, okay, I understand. I will write this info down and keep it with my maintenance notes. So flush, immediately, flush in 1k miles, and 3k miles while monitoring the cooling system temps. If needed replaced bottle, lines, thermostat and/ or radiator through Mazmart. Okay. Thanks again for the information and yes, the dealership is giving me a good warranty. They are down the street where as a rotary shop that would actually install the engine is over 100 miles away from me. So since money isn't really an issue, I just decided to go with Mazda. Thank you again. I will do the flushing as you stated and keep an eye on the temps.

Mazda isn't always the best answer when replacing your engine.My car is on it's 4th engine at 65k, first 3 mazda built or had remaned and they didn't last one of them less than 3k.
I'm glad a reputable rotary shop(Banzai Racing) did the rebuild this time hopefully it will last for many years with proper maintenance.
Good luck I hope you get a good one!

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Yeah I'm crossing my fingers that it works well. I know that the dealer i'm going to has two very reputable rotary guys who own an rx8 and rx7, so I'm sure they will help make everything go in the correct direction. I'm glad you finally got a great engine. I can find a bunch of good builders but I have yet to find a place that installs engines cloe to my location.

Hey buddy,

Forgot to ask in the last post, ..... 4 engines holy crap! Besides the radiator and coolant problems the the other person was warning me, what else is common to go wrong (symptom wise) with re-manufactured engines for our cars?

This post in the new owner's thread details the failure methods, and what you can do about them.

Right! My apologies. Thanks again, and I will retreat to re-read all of that awesome material again. Thanks

"Hey buddy,

Forgot to ask in the last post, ..... 4 engines holy crap! Besides the radiator and coolant problems the the other person was warning me, what else is common to go wrong (symptom wise) with re-manufactured engines for our1 cars? "
I wish I could tell you more the first 3 I have no clue I only found out by having the dealer run my vin# for warranty work done.
The last one Banzai did the rebuild and he found the stationary gears were bad. And one apex seal was stuck due to carbon build up.
I just got lucky my 8 I own now was at Banzai having the engine replaced the same time I took my 90' vert 7 to them for a rebuild.
Then I found the 8 for sale 3 miles from my house at had to buy it, it had already bonded with my 7 when they were giving new life.
In both cases the cars were dropped off and rebuilt and picked up one stop shopping.
To bad its not under some kind of warranty it was $4600 for the rebuild/replace on the 8 and $5100 to rebuild and modify vert 13b.
My only suggestions would be to break it in properly and to premix the owner of Banzai handed me 2 bottles of 2cycle oil before I left and told me to use it.
Alot of people debate wether you should or shouldn't premix it's your choice, but if someone that has been building rotary engines for over 20 years tells me to I'm good with that.
I don't think he would tell me to do something that would jeopardize his own warranty.
I have seen engines tore down and there is a difference in engine internals between premixing and not, some will debate this too.

My last suggestion is to just read RIWWP has posted to help others
alot of good info, maintenance is the key. And if it's an AT Drive it(paddle shifters), don't run @ in 4th gear at 1500rpm doing 30mph your just killing your engine.

Good Luck hope they hook you up!


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