Make a mechanic out of me plz 🤞🏼
12-08-2018, 10:16 AM
#1
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Make a mechanic out of me plz 🤞🏼
2011 Sport I bought with about 76k miles on it and I have had it for alil over a year now with 84k miles on it. I have ran into my first problem of it not starting. After reading up on here I was almost positive I flooded it with my 1.8 mile trips from work to home. I always let my car warm up in the mornings but at 2pm when I leave work, I just crank it and come straight home and turn it off. I unplugged the ESS, air injection pump and took my spark plugs out to do the Deflooding process. Once the rags were not as dirty as they were when I started, I put in new spark plugs and plugged everything back up. Car sounds different when starting but it still will not turn over. If I buy a compression tester and it reads good, what is my next step?
12-09-2018, 01:06 PM
#2
Smoking turbo yay
Firstly, as silly as this sounds, you should look into taking a slightly longer route. That's what I do if I have to drive to school, which is somewhat close to me. Or even walk/cycle if the weather allows. Don't idle it to warm, though, as that's not good for the car.
Secondly, a healthy RX-8 shouldn't flood. I stalled the car when it was cold a couple of times and it cranked right back up. If you flood, check your coils first. If you haven't replaced them before and don't know the history, replacing them is a good idea. Also check your battery.
Not much of a point unplugging ESS. It's usually suggested in troubleshooting steps since it's easy and costs nothing. Unplug the battery, wait for 10 minutes and press the brake pedal once(not 20 times, that's for Series 1).
Secondly, a healthy RX-8 shouldn't flood. I stalled the car when it was cold a couple of times and it cranked right back up. If you flood, check your coils first. If you haven't replaced them before and don't know the history, replacing them is a good idea. Also check your battery.
Not much of a point unplugging ESS. It's usually suggested in troubleshooting steps since it's easy and costs nothing. Unplug the battery, wait for 10 minutes and press the brake pedal once(not 20 times, that's for Series 1).
Last edited by UnknownJinX; 12-09-2018 at 01:14 PM.
12-09-2018, 01:25 PM
#3
People have mixed up which wires go to which spark plugs, while changing plugs, so check that to be sure. You plugged everything back in, right?
Beyond that, coils are your next step.
I wouldn't rush to a compression test, you're experiencing this problem on a cold engine. Usually you'll have compression-related symptoms on a warm restart way before cold start problems.
Depending on when the car was first sold, you still have a year of engine warranty, so if you suspect compression, visit Mazda. Even if you don't suspect it, visit Mazda just before it's 8 years from the original sale date.
Beyond that, coils are your next step.
I wouldn't rush to a compression test, you're experiencing this problem on a cold engine. Usually you'll have compression-related symptoms on a warm restart way before cold start problems.
Depending on when the car was first sold, you still have a year of engine warranty, so if you suspect compression, visit Mazda. Even if you don't suspect it, visit Mazda just before it's 8 years from the original sale date.
12-09-2018, 01:35 PM
#4
Registered
Try inserting a fair amount of oil through the spark plug holes (Maybe 0.25- 0.50 of a quart between both rotors) and turning it over, 10-5 seconds at a time so you don't over heat the starter. Also make sure the car is on a battery charger so the starter is spinning at full speed. Deflooding my S2 was close to what happened to you, and it took a long time to deflood properly. 20-30 mins of clearing the engine out. Make sure you HOLD YOUR PEDAL DOWN for the entirety of this process so the injectors don't prime again or put more fuel in. If you can check all four plugs for fouling and clean them with either an air compressor or propane torch. Mind you if they are blackened and covered in gas you should consider getting fresh ones if you haven't replaced them in the last 30k miles yourself. I've found any 8 can flood if too many short trips are made or if you get unlucky when you do the move it 20ft and turn it off sorta deal. You should also consider replacing your coils if you don't know when they were last done.
12-09-2018, 03:26 PM
#5
Registered
Thread Starter
Firstly, as silly as this sounds, you should look into taking a slightly longer route. That's what I do if I have to drive to school, which is somewhat close to me. Or even walk/cycle if the weather allows. Don't idle it to warm, though, as that's not good for the car.
Secondly, a healthy RX-8 shouldn't flood. I stalled the car when it was cold a couple of times and it cranked right back up. If you flood, check your coils first. If you haven't replaced them before and don't know the history, replacing them is a good idea. Also check your battery.
Not much of a point unplugging ESS. It's usually suggested in troubleshooting steps since it's easy and costs nothing. Unplug the battery, wait for 10 minutes and press the brake pedal once(not 20 times, that's for Series 1).
Secondly, a healthy RX-8 shouldn't flood. I stalled the car when it was cold a couple of times and it cranked right back up. If you flood, check your coils first. If you haven't replaced them before and don't know the history, replacing them is a good idea. Also check your battery.
Not much of a point unplugging ESS. It's usually suggested in troubleshooting steps since it's easy and costs nothing. Unplug the battery, wait for 10 minutes and press the brake pedal once(not 20 times, that's for Series 1).
12-09-2018, 03:28 PM
#6
Registered
Thread Starter
People have mixed up which wires go to which spark plugs, while changing plugs, so check that to be sure. You plugged everything back in, right?
Beyond that, coils are your next step.
I wouldn't rush to a compression test, you're experiencing this problem on a cold engine. Usually you'll have compression-related symptoms on a warm restart way before cold start problems.
Depending on when the car was first sold, you still have a year of engine warranty, so if you suspect compression, visit Mazda. Even if you don't suspect it, visit Mazda just before it's 8 years from the original sale date.
Beyond that, coils are your next step.
I wouldn't rush to a compression test, you're experiencing this problem on a cold engine. Usually you'll have compression-related symptoms on a warm restart way before cold start problems.
Depending on when the car was first sold, you still have a year of engine warranty, so if you suspect compression, visit Mazda. Even if you don't suspect it, visit Mazda just before it's 8 years from the original sale date.
12-09-2018, 03:33 PM
#7
Registered
Thread Starter
Try inserting a fair amount of oil through the spark plug holes (Maybe 0.25- 0.50 of a quart between both rotors) and turning it over, 10-5 seconds at a time so you don't over heat the starter. Also make sure the car is on a battery charger so the starter is spinning at full speed. Deflooding my S2 was close to what happened to you, and it took a long time to deflood properly. 20-30 mins of clearing the engine out. Make sure you HOLD YOUR PEDAL DOWN for the entirety of this process so the injectors don't prime again or put more fuel in. If you can check all four plugs for fouling and clean them with either an air compressor or propane torch. Mind you if they are blackened and covered in gas you should consider getting fresh ones if you haven't replaced them in the last 30k miles yourself. I've found any 8 can flood if too many short trips are made or if you get unlucky when you do the move it 20ft and turn it off sorta deal. You should also consider replacing your coils if you don't know when they were last done.
12-09-2018, 04:08 PM
#8
Smoking turbo yay
So yeah, do what Loki said, check the engine compression before the warranty expires, and you can potentially save yourself $5k+.
12-09-2018, 09:03 PM
#11
Smoking turbo yay
^Only true if you have a carburated car, which RX-8s are not.
Idle the car for 15~30 seconds on a cold start, then drive gently until you reach operating temp.
Idle the car for 15~30 seconds on a cold start, then drive gently until you reach operating temp.
12-10-2018, 08:16 AM
#13
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So I got a automatic 8 and it has paddle shifters and can go to maual but when I switch the gear over to manual it’s not actually manual it’s still automatic and the “M” light doesn’t light up either just stays on automatic drive. What’s up wit it?
12-10-2018, 08:38 AM
#14
You can start your own thread for this. Sounds like an issue with the shifter switch, I'd start there. When you start your thread, mention if shifting via the shifter up/down does anything. The center console and shifter area comes apart pretty easily starting with the cupholders (you can google for a DIY), you can check the connections, at least.
12-10-2018, 11:52 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
UnkownJinX & Loki-
I know about the Mazda warranty but I thought that was if your motor actually goes out? I called the Mazda place in pcola and they said it would cost me for them to tow it there and then for the test and then however much an hour to fix it since I did not purchase it from them. 🤷🏻*♂️ My car was flooded and it’s running now but I do still want a compression test done cuz I knew nothing about that till this site.
Swoope-
I am in Gulf Breeze 😏
I know about the Mazda warranty but I thought that was if your motor actually goes out? I called the Mazda place in pcola and they said it would cost me for them to tow it there and then for the test and then however much an hour to fix it since I did not purchase it from them. 🤷🏻*♂️ My car was flooded and it’s running now but I do still want a compression test done cuz I knew nothing about that till this site.
Swoope-
I am in Gulf Breeze 😏
12-10-2018, 12:04 PM
#16
Water Foul
UnkownJinX & Loki-
I know about the Mazda warranty but I thought that was if your motor actually goes out? I called the Mazda place in pcola and they said it would cost me for them to tow it there and then for the test and then however much an hour to fix it since I did not purchase it from them. 🤷🏻*♂️ My car was flooded and it’s running now but I do still want a compression test done cuz I knew nothing about that till this site.
Swoope-
I am in Gulf Breeze 😏
I know about the Mazda warranty but I thought that was if your motor actually goes out? I called the Mazda place in pcola and they said it would cost me for them to tow it there and then for the test and then however much an hour to fix it since I did not purchase it from them. 🤷🏻*♂️ My car was flooded and it’s running now but I do still want a compression test done cuz I knew nothing about that till this site.
Swoope-
I am in Gulf Breeze 😏
12-10-2018, 02:05 PM
#17
Smoking turbo yay
I mean, you should have got one when you purchased the car. Then the dealer/seller can swallow that cost as a part of the pre-purchase inspection.
Sometimes, the compression loss isn't so apparent.
You can drive your car there if your car runs now. You actually need a warm engine to get the best results.
Sometimes, the compression loss isn't so apparent.
You can drive your car there if your car runs now. You actually need a warm engine to get the best results.
12-10-2018, 03:13 PM
#18
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Steve Dallas-
I was thinking I should go get it checked anyways since I didn’t when I bought it. Thank you 😏
UnknownJinX-
The dealership is a good 20-30 min from my house and I have to get on interstate to get there. That’s the only time I really get to zoom zoom in my car so I’ll make sure it’s warm 😎 thank you!!!
So I just stopped in at Oriellys to price some things and talked to the guy that I see that drives an rx7. He appears to be in his mid thirties and has had his car for a few years. He told me to put 10w30 in my car instead of 5w20 and to just check it often. What do y’all think about that? 🤔 thats what I put in my 1990 F150 I had so I don’t know how I feel about that advice. Anyone ever heard that before?
I was thinking I should go get it checked anyways since I didn’t when I bought it. Thank you 😏
UnknownJinX-
The dealership is a good 20-30 min from my house and I have to get on interstate to get there. That’s the only time I really get to zoom zoom in my car so I’ll make sure it’s warm 😎 thank you!!!
So I just stopped in at Oriellys to price some things and talked to the guy that I see that drives an rx7. He appears to be in his mid thirties and has had his car for a few years. He told me to put 10w30 in my car instead of 5w20 and to just check it often. What do y’all think about that? 🤔 thats what I put in my 1990 F150 I had so I don’t know how I feel about that advice. Anyone ever heard that before?
Last edited by rawrx8!; 12-10-2018 at 03:15 PM.
12-10-2018, 07:06 PM
#19
Water Foul
Steve Dallas-
I was thinking I should go get it checked anyways since I didn’t when I bought it. Thank you 😏
UnknownJinX-
The dealership is a good 20-30 min from my house and I have to get on interstate to get there. That’s the only time I really get to zoom zoom in my car so I’ll make sure it’s warm 😎 thank you!!!
So I just stopped in at Oriellys to price some things and talked to the guy that I see that drives an rx7. He appears to be in his mid thirties and has had his car for a few years. He told me to put 10w30 in my car instead of 5w20 and to just check it often. What do y’all think about that? 🤔 thats what I put in my 1990 F150 I had so I don’t know how I feel about that advice. Anyone ever heard that before?
I was thinking I should go get it checked anyways since I didn’t when I bought it. Thank you 😏
UnknownJinX-
The dealership is a good 20-30 min from my house and I have to get on interstate to get there. That’s the only time I really get to zoom zoom in my car so I’ll make sure it’s warm 😎 thank you!!!
So I just stopped in at Oriellys to price some things and talked to the guy that I see that drives an rx7. He appears to be in his mid thirties and has had his car for a few years. He told me to put 10w30 in my car instead of 5w20 and to just check it often. What do y’all think about that? 🤔 thats what I put in my 1990 F150 I had so I don’t know how I feel about that advice. Anyone ever heard that before?
20 weight oils yield slightly more HP, slightly better fuel economy, and maybe slightly better emissions. Heavier oils sacrifice those things in favor of better shear resistance under heavy load and slightly higher oil pressure. But, if you drain and fill every 3K miles, none of it much matters. Use whatever helps you sleep at night.
I use Mobil 1 0W40 and am happy with it (I track my car), but I have managed good used oil reports with all different grades and brands and blends. I once dumped the partial bottles of all the different oils I had on my garage shelf into my 8's oil pan, drove it 3K miles, took it to the track 3 times, and received high marks from Blackstone on my "semi-synth 5W30" (it was some of each of the following: Castrol GTX 20W50 (blower), Valvoline Synpower 10W30 (lawnmower), Castrol Edge 0W20 (wife's car), Quaker State 5W20 (mom's car), Mobil 1 0W40 (RX-8 and Miata), Rotella T6 5W40 (truck)).
12-10-2018, 08:00 PM
#20
Smoking turbo yay
Steve Dallas-
I was thinking I should go get it checked anyways since I didn’t when I bought it. Thank you ��
UnknownJinX-
The dealership is a good 20-30 min from my house and I have to get on interstate to get there. That’s the only time I really get to zoom zoom in my car so I’ll make sure it’s warm �� thank you!!!
So I just stopped in at Oriellys to price some things and talked to the guy that I see that drives an rx7. He appears to be in his mid thirties and has had his car for a few years. He told me to put 10w30 in my car instead of 5w20 and to just check it often. What do y’all think about that? �� thats what I put in my 1990 F150 I had so I don’t know how I feel about that advice. Anyone ever heard that before?
I was thinking I should go get it checked anyways since I didn’t when I bought it. Thank you ��
UnknownJinX-
The dealership is a good 20-30 min from my house and I have to get on interstate to get there. That’s the only time I really get to zoom zoom in my car so I’ll make sure it’s warm �� thank you!!!
So I just stopped in at Oriellys to price some things and talked to the guy that I see that drives an rx7. He appears to be in his mid thirties and has had his car for a few years. He told me to put 10w30 in my car instead of 5w20 and to just check it often. What do y’all think about that? �� thats what I put in my 1990 F150 I had so I don’t know how I feel about that advice. Anyone ever heard that before?
As for the oil weight, my car has only ever seen 5W-20 and it runs fine. It depends on what you do with your car.
If you live in a rather mild climate and all you do is daily driving with some autocrossing, then 5W-20 is sufficient.
If you live in a hotter climate or track your car then you can bump it up to 5W-30 or 5W-40.
Whatever you do, change the oil often as Steven mentioned, and tell your dealer that you are using 5W-20 for less fuss. Also, check your oil level at least at every other fill-up and add as necessary. Our cars burn oil as a part of its design.
Every engine has different oil requirements depending on their design. My 08 Accord Coupe V6 used 5W-20 as well, and my 99 Corolla beater used 5W-30. Most German cars run pretty thick oil.
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Steve Dallas (12-11-2018)
12-11-2018, 12:29 AM
#22
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You can start your own thread for this. Sounds like an issue with the shifter switch, I'd start there. When you start your thread, mention if shifting via the shifter up/down does anything. The center console and shifter area comes apart pretty easily starting with the cupholders (you can google for a DIY), you can check the connections, at least.
Last edited by CloutKid; 12-11-2018 at 12:33 AM.
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