Looking for help
 

I just bought a 2006 Shinkansen Rx8. I am located in Columbia, SC. Wondering if there is anyone around me that owns an Rx8, I could hook up with and have them check my car out'. I'm not sure what the previous owner has or has not done to it, in regards to normal maintenance. I was just hoping to find someone with experience to help me get straight or teach me what to do.

Thanks any help would do. I love this car and I want to get it in tip top shape.

Welcome, we have a seat right here for you.

While I'm not in your area, this ought to get you started.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/

In addition, to help create your own service history for the car, have a look at the following thread:
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...member-255985/
Look for a list posted by gwilliams that itemizes the recommended services for the RX8

First rule if you don't think or know it was done and it's at the milage it needs it assume it hasn't been done and do it. First on the list (if you didn't do it before you bought it) compression test at a mazda dealer. That way you don't spend money on things that arnt going to do any good. Next if it truly is a Shinka keep her stock it's worth much more that whay.

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks! It is the Shinka version, it has it on the door beside the window.nbwhat make worth more?

No I haven't had the compression tested. Strapped on cash due to purchase, 80k miles. I can tell the syncho is out of whack, because at high rpms it grinds gears.

Shinkas don't say they're Shinka, so just get that checked out :)

Other than the trans, how does it drive?

WONDERFUL! Depending on what brand of fuel I put in it. So far it seems to like Sunoco the best, as far as throttle response. It seems to idle around 850rpm, it doesn't move from that. It does seem to be a little jittery during idling, but no rpm change. And it puts a while on my face!

Can any mom and pop shop do a compression check?

The paint job is one of the 2 only available for the 2006 Shinks. The deep burgandy color.

^No. Take it to the dealer or a rotary specialist. It should cost under $200 and is well worth the price to know the health of the engine. Come by here with the numbers provided and we can let you know how you scored.

Awesome THANKS!

Make sure you get 6 numbers like rotor 1: 7.5, 7.4, 7.6; rotor 2: 7.5, 7.5, 7.5 and the rpm. They should either tell you the rpm the test ran at, or the numbers normalized to 250rpm. Anything less is not what you're paying for :P

True!

What do these numbers mean?

The pressure of the fuel-air mixture as each rotor face is compressed to its maximum (without ignition). 3 faces per rotor, 2 rotors = 6 numbers. Could be in kPa, psi or some other unit of pressure.

If the engine can't build enough pressure because the mixture is escaping by a seal somewhere, it won't ignite as intended and your engine won't make power and eventually won't be able to start. As the engine gets warmer, the metal expands and the compression goes down a little bit. That's why low compression engines can start cold but have trouble starting warm.

If you search for compression chart, you should find a graph from Mazda that shows what compression @ what rpm is considered nominal and what's considered failing.

Here you go