Failed engine?
 

06 MT 100500Miles I premix .5oz/gal, doubt the previous owner did and I bought it 350 miles ago, problems and all...
I haven't been able to do a compression test yet, but car has hot start trouble, long crank to start, sometimes have to try 2-3 times to get it started.
if I run it through the rpm range once or twice I'll have a FULL catch can, if I do it 3-4 times it overflows, blows into the upper and lower intake, then falls flat on its face.
Currently no air filter, previous owner took it out (I presume when he found it soaked in oil) new filter should arrive by the end of the week.

I was hoping to luck out and find a plugged cat but I pulled it off yesterday and the cat is gone, I haven't had the car long so Idk if the previous owner gutted it or it burned out. Is it possible that it burned out and the little bit of cat debris is enough to be plugging my muffler and causing excess blowback? (I don't expect it to, but that would be the easiest fix so I wish it were the case)

I'm thinking one or more side seals are gone. I only get about 12 mpg and have a serious misfire somewhere. I'm going to try to buy the BHR ignition kit upgrade the week after next when my budget allows it and in the mean time I will clean the ESPS (and now the oil out of my intake and MAF again since I had to test the new catch can and it still exploded into my intake) If I just drive easy the car runs great (after the struggle to start too) I haven't sea foamed it yet, I have the vacuum hose and seafoam in the trunk waiting for a day when the neighbors aren't home...

Obviously with a gutted cat I'm getting constant CEL and code for catalyst below threshold blah blah, but I have some codes I don't understand too:
P0113 intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit high input (where is this?)
P0335 crankshaft position sensor A circuit Malfunction (hopefully some ECC fixes this)
Just thought I'd throw those out there before I begin the search for their causes.

also, another long shot but is it possible that my severe misfire is the cause of the blow-by? maybe the last guy crossed a coil and the rotor is in the wrong position when it fires so the pressure has to escape into the crankcase or something? I'm really just making desperate excuses right now and I doubt this could happen but I'm really not ready for a rebuild yet, I had budgeted a rebuild for next summer. Even still I suppose even if it is a bad seal I could run it easy for 7-8 months with as much as I drive it and do the rebuild next year, I'd just like for it not to be. Babying a car for 7 months when it NEEDS a sprint here and there isn't very appealing :/

Are you set on rebuilding this engine and keeping the car? Because if not, I would wait for the compression test before investing any more money. Although ... at the rate you say it's filling the catch can, you could probably test it with a regular compression tester as you can expect some faces with zero compression.

No idea on the codes, those are pretty unusual.

I guess what I'm really trying to find out is if its worth throwing money at this thing to fix a problem that may not be fixable until rebuild time, If all I can do is rebuild it I might hold off on buying a bunch of parts until I attempt a rebuild since the car is running and getting me from point a to point b, its just more of a gas hog than its supposed to be and I can't let it stretch it's legs. I did order a 2kW starter to try and cover up the hot start issues until I can find/fix the cause, but I'm hesitant to spend more. I think I may stop after the starter, ignition set, decarb. and let it ride as is for a while.

didn't see your reply loki, Im leaning toward keeping it.. I really want to but I am beginning to wonder if Im in over my head. I got the car for 3700 and it apparently its a gt which books for 8k average retail (I can't verify the trim but its got leather/heated seats and mirrors/6disc bose/spoiler/keyless entry) so if i put a rebuild and a few parts in it I'll still have less invested than book value, however if I go to rebuild and find a bad rotor or housing the cost of repair is going to raise significantly, I wouldn't order the rebuild kit until I crack it open and inspect but Im just not sure what to do. If I sink the money into a rebuild and then keep finding external parts that are bad I'm not sure it'd be worth it. I just got the car, haven't even made my first payment on the loan and I've already ran into a few problems, I don't have access to a rotary compression tester so I'll have to take the valve out of a normal one a friend has but our schedules don't align very well and I don't have a compression tester of my own.

I don't really think keeping it is a great idea but I need a new hobby and this car could easily be it, I'm just not sure I want such an expensive hobby.

What could be easier is buying a rebuilt engine from folks like RotaryResurrection, Pineapple racing, etc. The problem with rebuilds is not getting them to fire up, it's not having to rebuild again in 10,000 miles.

But to your point, if it sounds daunting, start with a compression test and make your spending decisions from there. Sure it could probably use a new ignition, but that's 500 bucks you don't need to spend if you decide not to rebuild.

looked at rotary res., renesis $1600 base price?? from what I've found thats only $300 more than the cost to do it yourself. although if your old core isn't "suitable" I wonder how much that goes up. would it max at 2550 (since that includes the core charge) or could it be higher? I'm sorry to be asking you this as i understand you don't work for them but its worth asking anyways, if you don't know then maybe someone who has dealt with them will know.

My hot start issue has gotten worse :.( see the video in the link

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3osth17y0w...%20pm.mov?dl=0

What is that skipping sound an engine makes? Is that a misfire?

On the second attempt I started out with the pedal to the floor and you can hear when I started to let it up.
At the end I feathered the throttle a little to get it started.

Can anybody provide any insight to these readings (photos below). Been stuck on "no start" for months, new starter, plugs, wires, battery VSS solenoids she burbles a bit, new plugs, coils in spec, firing on all s.plugs... but after ODB live reading..... I'm thinking the TPS is going out or the throttle body is jankerd up (sticking 0% to 100%) or the TPS is just dying out. The throttle body was already cleaned inside and out (where throttle body plate motor is & TPS). This dam car has me afflicted. Also, compression testing with 4cycled styled tester...? is that actually possible or is there a special type of unit required....

I never should have let my buddy give me this freaking car....
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...4d53ddcffe.jpg

WTF HELP - 2004 RX8 - ODB Codes & Check flash but can't read it
 

Any insight to the readings here, hella stuff replaced, plugs, wires, batter, starter, fuel, VSS and the other one - solenoid's - given car to afflict me or something WTF - Hopfully someones got and idea... an what kind of compression test is needed for this twister (rotory, 13B, 04 grand touring)?
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...07fc30dabd.jpg
ODB reading car off in morning "not ran" fully charged battey. TPS readings are all off with throttle plate open at rest at 16%....WTF - Help insight any ideas.. careful when giving a car