TG20030

So let me start by trying to give you all a little history about my 2004 RX8. I purchased the car used from a private owner who bought it at an auction intending to fix it and never did. He told me it needed an engine rebuild. I had the engine completely rebuilt. In addition to the rebuild I installed new ignition coils, wires, plugs, position sensor, battery, starter. I actually have a couple issues. I've tried cranking the engine but it would not start. Now since it's a fresh rebuild I squirted some oil into the cylinders to fire off the engine and it starts right up. I kept the idle at about 3,000 rpm's and held it there. What happens is usually within 3-5 minutes of running the engine at 3000 rpms it will suddenly just shut right down. No sputtering or misfiring. Just shuts off as if you turned the ignition key to the off position. It has done this to me about 5-6 times now. I've noticed that once the engine shuts down the electric cooling fans kick on. (not sure if that's related or not). I thought it might be the fuel pump going bad so I've replaced it but still have the same issue. I have a CEL but its reading code P0130 which I know is an oxygen sensor issue but I don't think this would cause the shutdown. I'd appreciate any ideas/advice from anyone on this issue.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Check that the injectors are wired in the correct order. It's a common mistake with similar symptoms.

Ditto for ignition coil and spark plug order.

Cylinders, eh

TG20030

Thanks Loki. I'll check the injectors and post my results. I'm absolutely certain the ignition coils an spark plug order are correct.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Quoted for posterity ...........

TG20030

No luck. The injectors were wired correctly. I double checked the coils/plugs and they are in the correct order also. Just to mention I have the standard power rx8 so only 2 primary injectors and 2 secondary injectors. As I mentioned initially one of the strange things that I've noticed is that as soon as the car shuts down the electric fans kick on.

TG20030

Anyone have any advice/suggestions?????

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Check that your engine coolant temp is working properly .

Check maf sensor is reading correctly .

see what afrs are when it shuts down

gwilliams6

Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors

Keeping the Engine at a Cruise
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Engine Compression
• E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
• Intake Valving
• Throttle Body
• Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors
• Front O2 sensor
• Catalytic Converter (Cat)

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/

TG20030

So the latest thing is that the only way I can get my car to start is to spray a few pumps of oil into the cylinders in order to start the engine. It will run for a few minutes and then suddenly cut off. Cannot restart it once it cuts off. Only way to restart it is to once again put a couple sprays of oil into the cylinders and crank the engine over. Any ideas on whats going on?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I would start contacting whoever rebuilt it. If you need oil to start it and keep it running, your compression is low. May be a side effect of the rebuild being fresh, but there's not usually that much drama.

Who rebuilt it?

TG20030

The rebuild was done by a reputable, local shop. I feel that if I could get the engine to run for longer than just a few minutes then maybe all the seals would "seat". I also feel that if it were a compression issue then either it would not start at all or would just run poorly but not cut offl after just a few minutes. Or maybe I'm completely wrong. Needless to say it's been very challenging.

NotAPreppie

First: rotaries don't have cylinders. How did you introduce the oil to the rotors?

Second: The engine dying at idle while warm often means you don't have good compression.

Third: adding oil to make it work often means you don't have good compression.

Fourth: Rotary compression is lower when at normal operating temperature. This is why rotaries may start fine cold but die when warm.

Fifth: Your car needs a compression test. Run it until it stalls and then test it immediately.

Sixth: Sadly, your feelings have little bearing on the facts of the situation. Even my craptacular rebuild started and ran normally, hot or cold, despite having failing compression.

ObiWanOvermann

iTrader: (1)

Bringing back an oldish thread, but I'm having EXACTLY the same issue with my rebuild. Needs extra oil to start it up and then dies after warming up with the cooling fans kicking on afterwards. Was there a solution to this issue? I don't feel that my engine has been able to set the seals since it only stays running for a few minutes and then cools down again.

NotAPreppie

You need a rotary-specific compression test. Get it warmed up to the point that it stalls and immediately test it.

jacdarippa

Dudes, I have the same problem and I went to a Rotary expert and he wanted to tell me after putting a new(used racing rotary engine from Japan 4 years ago) engine that I am going to need a rebuild ($4800 BS). I saw this video on YouTube and guess what it works. I have a heavy foot and always trying to redline the car. If you do this procedure after disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery this should work. I have a 2004 (bought 14 years ago) one and only and I depend on my car. Try and it and let me know how it works out for you (good luck)!

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

wtf is this supposed to mean? your rotary expert is probably right that after 4yrs with a "new used (racing) engine from japan" you need a rebuild, get a compression test and post the #s. btw all you need to do to fix the idle hunt after disconnecting the battery is go for a few drive cycles

04Green

iTrader: (1)

This is the learn procedure. Definitely the way to go you you disconnect, especially if the engine is older and there is more learning involved...

ObiWanOvermann

iTrader: (1)

The car is now at the shop where the engine was rebuilt. As he knows more about these kinds of engines, he should be able to figure out what's going on with it shutting down once at running temperature. I'll respond back in a few days or weeks with the results of the issue it had so we can all learn from this.

jacdarippa

Thank you for the update and please communicate root cause and remedy. Thank you 04Green I appreciate validating my efforts to assist TG20030. Regarding 200.mph, my comments were "WTF" meant to do. The RX8club is to assist others on issues with their vehicles. That was intention. To provide an instructional video that worked for me. I could provide the compression test for my car. However, months later my car is running very well without any need of a rebuilt (as suggested by mechanic). My mechanic worked with me and completed a thorough review of the car and determined that the engine did not match up well with the stock exhaust system. After upgrading the exhaust, replacing the battery and alternator then applying the above procedure my car performs efficiently. Instead of sarcastically criticizing a plausible suggestion, do the research and provide an intelligent solution that may assist others.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

you stated you got a new used engine, which is it? what is a japan racing engine? yes its extremely possible 4yrs on a used engine needs a rebuild. why wouldnt any renny match up well with a stock exhaust? makes no sense. sounds to me you are the one who needs to do some research

thebubbadog

Yea I don't understand either why the stock exhaust wouldn't match up. It's stock...

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

must be because we didnt do your research plus its a new/used jap racing engine lol. guess almost 11yrs on this forum, being an owner and having worked on about two dozen members cars doesnt make me smart enough to understand

ObiWanOvermann

iTrader: (1)

So I finally got the car back from the shop (3.5 months). It would seem that the main reason the car would shut down was due to some knockoff LS2 coils that I bought from a site that sold them as genuine. Wish I could remember where and how much I paid for them. That was a few years ago though. So it also had some grounding issues and the TPS drive by wire wasn't working correctly. I just need to throw in a new battery and I should be good to go for the break in process. The one I brought with me, that I took out of my winter daily driver, didn't have enough cranking amps to turn over the 8.