Cooling help (moved from Bigger Radiator thread in Racing Subforum)
 

hey guys I've never posted for help before on a forum but here it goes....

so i have a 2004 6spd, with 207,xxxkm original motor :O,

surprise, surprise it started to overheat, this lasted 2 days (about a month ago) I topped up the coolent and I was fine for about a month.

recently I overheated almost to "redline" on the dash gauge...

so I parked the car and went ham, I first found the nipple at the top of the rad to the coolent res had been previouly broken and epoxied on,,,, (previous owner) it was leaking so I installed a new rad, 2 (800cfm each) slim rad fans, moved the battery to the trunk (2.ga welding wire with 60amp fuse), put on a cold air intake, and a 78*c mishimoto thermostat. bled out all the air and fired it up...

at first the car refused to hold at idle and I had to keep my foot on the gas (1000rpm) it stayed running and the temp never reached "mid" on the temp gauge.

now driving on the highway she runs nice and cold and I did a dead stop launch from the shoulder on the highway and she took around 6-7 seconds

but... now at idle (rough 500-600rpm) the car starts to overheat like crazy (temp gauge climes rapidly)
(fans blaring) radiator is cool to the touch,

also just for Sh*ts i twisted the over flow hose up so I can see (from drivers seat) and found if I hold the car at 3000rpm its fine the second I let off the gas and allow the car to creep down to idle coolent starts jetting up through the overflow like a "geyser".


left over possibilities to me seam like,

1 water pump,
2 rad cap,
3 clogged cat, (defiantly clogged)

I run 93/94oct with about 8oz of 2 stroke at full fill.

I apologize for trying to hijack this thread but i couldn't start one of my own and im at my wits end trying to keep it together,,

TeamRX8 you uploaded this,
[IMG]http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...ps87a4b2d0.jpg[/IMG]

Will this work? if I were to re run plug and route everything??

[IMG]http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1bd85ec8.jpg[/IMG]

Sounds like you need a water pump.

Might want to put in stock thermostat too.....

If your motor had a coolant seal failure on the compression side you can get combustion gases into the coolant.

Yea I'm going to grab a new water pump and cap today and mig together a 3" header back straight pipe hopefully that's all it takes I don't feel like shelling out for a rebuild kit haha

no offense, but you could have piggybacked any number of threads in the appropriate forum here instead: Series I Trouble Shooting - RX8Club.com

or started your own thread and post silliness here safely: New Member Forum - RX8Club.com

sorry broski just thought we might have the same problem as the OP stated after upgrading the cooling system they still have over heating issues, but yea I'm wicked bummed

okay so Im in the process of looking for a water pump they're about $123~ I was wondering since Im at it is there an up-graded or up-dated pump?

Mazmart makes an updated pump with a better impeller. Not needed for a street driven car in my opinion...but if you plan on driving it at high RPM's for extended periods it is much better

awesome thank dannobre!

how difficult was hanging the REW to the 8 mounts?? rx7 are rare in the GTA so the importer has a couple for sale basically "name your price"($1500) they've been sitting for years tho, comes with engine tranny ecu harness and TT's,,, is it worth it? I do all my own labour,

currently I intend to turbo my MSP next summer at 9-11psi max,, thats why Im beefing up my cooling system now lol 9,500rpm runs pretty hot :)

I th8nk it's worth it ;) 500HP in an 8 is amazing

It's not cheap.....or easy though. you have a ton of stuff to fab...manifolds, hot and cold side plumbing for the turbo etc.....

The easy mount solution is http://www.rx8performance.com/products/engine-mount

The mount solves the REW mounting problem...and doesn't create too many in the process :)

You will need to wire in an aftermarket ECU...and have it tuned...

It cost me 10K in parts and a lot of hours...and a lot of shops charge 15-20K for the basic swap....so take that as a potential warning :)

If you are looking for a water pump send me a PM...I have one that came on a Mazda reman...so basically brand new you can have for shipping as a Canadian discount

well this is how im set up plus a big a$$ princess auto engine hoist lol [IMG]http://i1054.photobucket.com/albums/...psf4608175.jpg[/IMG]

fabbing ain't nothing lol I can copy the swap mount lol but, maybe slapping a turbo on the msp will probly be cheaper :/ planning on a rear mount set up maybe 9-11psi lol

heres what i got so farAttachment 221518

so after I put in the new water pump, radiator, rad cap, high flow fans and bled, turns out that the hose that connects to the top of the radiator to the reservoir it had a formed 45* angle and it had split so I replaced it with a regular piece of Goodyear coolant hose and turns out it had kinked not returning water to the top of the radiator. soooo replaced it and hasn't over heated stays just under mid on the temp gauge! not just gotta figure out why it stalls out at idle. lotta threads on that =)

Can someone please help me, i changed my radiator for about 2 months now... car is running fine... then all of a sudden 1 day ago, my car needed more coolant ( the indicator came on )... i filed it up and 10 minutes later it went straight to "H" ... it cooled down and there was no coolant inside... i then filled it back up too the Full line... 10 minutes past again and it was empty. I checked under the car and saw that the coolant was dripping, looked to be from the radiator... i am in disbelief if it is the radiator because the radiator i replaced was brand new... could it be something else... someone please help

Could be a hose or the radiator nipple...or the rad itself.....or the water pump....

Where is the water leaking out?

depending on who installed the radiator, those things can be fragile ie the nipple on top of the rad, but also check the hoses and the reservoir may also be a weak rad cap allowing the coolant to pi*s out the over flow hose,