Complete Tune Up
 

I need a list about a COMPLETE in depth tune up for a manual 6 speed RX8 2004...sorry I had to emphaisize total since I barely got it running and it has been sitting for a long so lets assume its bearrrrly running disregarding bad engine with all stock parts

Therefore changes would be:
-Thermostat
-Oil
-Oil Filter
-Transmission Fluid??
-Radiator Flush
-Coolant
-Break Disk
-Breaks
-Waterpump
-(Personally) New radiator
-(Personally) New Fans
-Spark Plugs
-Ignition Coils Check

If it were me and I were getting it back on the road I would replace the following:

-plugs
-wires
-coils
-engine oil and filter
-air filter
-cabin filters
-coolant flush
-diff oil (not forgetting the limited slip additive if applicable)
-trans oil
-belts
-clean maf
-inspect vacuum lines
-inspect coolant hoses
-inspect power steering wiring harness and clean contacts if need be
-brake service or replacement depending on if it were sitting inside or outside
-tires-wiper blades
-drain old gas and fill with fresh gas and run a can of BG 44K through the first tank
-check for and debris trapped in between the radiator and condenser

I would replace belts and hoses, especially the one that connects to the plastic radiator nipple if you want to save/sell your stock radiator.
You'll want to split & peel that one so you don't break the nipple.

Here's what I would recommend:

• Engine/transmission/diff oils.
• Check engine and cabin air filters, replace as necessary.
• Clean MAF with actual MAF cleaner (NOTHING ELSE!!!).
• While MAF is drying, clean all of the oil out of the intake and throttle body with Intake/Carb cleaner (if you're feeling ambitious, pull the UIM and hose down the inside of that with intake/carb cleaner).
• Coolant flush (not just a drain and refill).
• Check coolant hoses, replace as necessary.
• Replace thermostat (it's cheap and easy if you've drained the coolant).
• Check the water pump, replace as necessary.
• After completing coolant work, rent coolant system pressure tester from auto parts store and verify it holds 13 psi for a while as you do other work (or take a break for a beer).
• Replace spark plugs, wires.
• Test coils with HEI coil tester ($20 on Amazon), replace as necessary.
• Inspect belts, replace as necessary.
• Test vacuum solenoids on the back of the UIM and on the back of the airbox with MityVac hand pump (should hold 10 psi vacuum for several minutes), replace as necessary.
• Test vacuum actuators (VDI, SSV, SAIP) with MityVac hand pump (should start to actuate by 10 psi vacuum), clean or replace as necessary.
• Test oil injectors with MityVac hand pump (should hold 10 psi vacuum and lose less than 0.39 psi/minute), clean or replace as necessary.
• Visually inspect catalyst bed (disconnect from exhaust manifold and shine a light inside).
• Use OBD-II adapter and phone app to check LTFT, MAF rate, coolant temp (make note of what temps coolant fans are activated to ensure they are actually working).
• Clean ESS, reset ESS profile.
• Check motor mounts, replace as necessary.
• Check fuel pressure.

If you're going to turn it into a track/autocross toy, also do this:

• Upgraded radiator (CSF 3164 or Koyo V2695).
• BHR or IGN-1A coil upgrade.
• Clean and straighten fins on A/C condenser and oil coolers.
• Cut larger vents in fender liners for better oil cooler airflow.
• Sohn adapter to make it easier to monitor OMP usage.
• Consider a catless midpipe if your class rules allow it. Swap the night before an event, swap back the day after the event.
• Install fuel pressure, oil pressure, and oil temp gauges.

That or just leave it connected to the radiator and buy a new hose.

True that.
Let the next person deal with it.
:)

Thank You So Much I live in the high dessert so making sure it can run as cool as possible is my goal so I'am looking forward to a new radiator and fan. I'll use conventional oil until I get the sohn adapter. I don't want to use this car as a autocross toy since i respect it and it took me ALOT to get it running. I bought it without an engine and my mechanic wanted me to give up on it so he could keep it but from the small drive me and my dad took it is completely worth it.

Despite the overheating part

If its overheating you will want to make sure a coolant seal has not failed. The coolant seals can fail and or the housings can corrode around where the coolant seal lays in channel on the housing. This can cause a couple things to happen. The coolant can start leaking into the housing causing hard start or no start issues, white smoke from the exhaust, and general coolant consumption. If you have failure on the exhaust side, the exhaust gases can pressurize the coolant, causing small bubbles to constantly appear in the expansion tank. The hot exhaust gases will also cause the the coolant to boil and overheat. Your engine will need to be removed and disassembled either way. If you're lucky its just a faulty coolant seal. If you're not so lucky, you will have to replace one or both of the rotor housings.