automatic transmission problem, where to start?
 

hello
lately I have been having this issue
2010 series II automatic 6 speed

#1 cold start / cold engine (no power or delay in vehicle movement)
starting the car and driving 1 min to a stop sign and coming to a stop
then when I press gas, no power for a few seconds
this usually only happens once and usually when cold outside
problem always goes away soon as engine warms up

(also happens in manual mode sometimes)

#2 around 2000 RPM car may surge or rock back and forth a little sometimes

#3 at full stop in "D" with foot on brake, car may shake a little once in a while
at full stop in "N" engine runs perfect, no shaking
A/C is off

Random question
when car KEY is turned to accessory and engine is not on
buzzing noise behind dash starts
happens when cold, is this part of the AWS? anyone have an idea?

my MAZDA power train warranty expired ONE MONTH AGO
I talked ot the dealer and he says they cannot promise they will warranty the transmission
I have not had them diagnose the car yet

the car has 40,000 miles but is 5 years old.
transmission fluid has never been changed
there is no dipstick to even check the transmission fluid
this is where I want to start but does the problem sound more serious?

Step 1, Check the fluid level.

Sorry to hear about your issues. I don't know much about transmission issues, but the vibration in D could be due to worn engine mounts. My car does the same. In N or P, the car would smoothen out.

The buzzing sound when you turn the key on, could be the interior temp sensor fan. I haven't noticed this happening in my RX-8, but in my Mazda 3 there's a little air vent right next to the steering column, about an inch in diameter. There's a small fan inside to suck air into the sensor to get a good temp reading. My Mazda 3 would buzz every time it's cold outside. Freaked me out. The same air vent is inside the RX-8, in the same location. It could be that. Try shining a flashlight to see if that fan is spinning.

Yeah S2 autos don't have a transmission dipstick. You have to check it from the transmission itself. There guide is on here somewhere. I'll try to find it for you :)

Btw, does your car make a faint rattling noise in gear around 3000 rpm?

Here you go!

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...k-06-a-232861/

Ah,

What he said in the post above.

If one of my cars was behaving like you described, I would be looking to the fluid and fluid level. On cars with autos, I drain out a couple of quarts once a year and replace them with a good synthetic fluid. Just that small change makes a difference. And, all you can really get to at one time is a few quarts, so it is easy. If you were to drain the pan, and just refill it, you may see a difference. If it works, do it again in a few weeks. Or, you can take it someplace for a fluid flush. I do not like them on older cars, as there is too much crap that can get spread around the inside of the trans, but you do not have that many miles. I think a flush is couple of hundred dollars. Dealer maybe able to do it as well.

Good luck.

thanks for the cute reply
the series II RX8 does not have a transmission dipstick, you cannot check the fluid level
the dipstick was removed in later car models

I can drop the entire transmission pan and stick my finger in the hole though like the diagram Nisa posted but then I would be doing an entire transmission service, not necessarily a diagnosis.
I was planning to change the fluid anyway, but I didnt know if anyone else had experienced this or if it is a mazda RX8 specific issue.

when in neutral the engine does not vibrate at all
only when in drive and at a full stop
so yeah, the engine is fine and I just did a tuneup and changed all the coil packs recently

I will post back whether or not changing the transmission fluid helped or not

You do not really check the level as much as pump in fluid, through the fill, until it comes out the level hole. Then it is full. If you put in a quart before it came out, you were a quart low.

Exactly! Just add fluid until it comes out of the overflow hole (or whatever they call it lol).

Pretty sure the vibration in Drive or Reverse is engine mounts. Does it vibrate way more when the engine is cold? Like, right after starting the car in the morning? If that's the case, engine mounts for sure.

I had the car looked at by the dealership
they say they cannot replicate the problem
just putting your foot on the brake and the car will start to shake, I guess you need a master's degree to test this.
transmission fluid was flushed and the problem persists so it is something more serious
my warranty just expired so I think they are giving me a run around and don't want to dig too deep
so i will have to deal with the discomfort or wait until the transmission completely fails
I am planning to trade the car in this year, so shameful
or my other option would be a salvaged transmission or rebuild?
it is a 2010 and a six speed and i don't think those are too common
I don't want to pass the buck and sell the car off to someone else so I guess a trade in is the best option? my car has 40,000 miles this is so disappointing
I keep telling myself I will not buy another mazda they always fall apart and this is like my 5th one.
my NC miata was great though, tough like a tank and I drove the hell out of that.
this RX8 was treated like a pampered princess it was my honey's car there is no excuse for it to fall apart.

Sounds easy enough to replicate the issue... is there another, more helpful dealer you can try?

I'm not super convinced this is a transmission problem though.

#1: when you press the gas, does the engine rpm rise but not create any forward movement, or is there no reaction at all?

#2: is that at 2000rpm while stopped or moving? Does this only happen when you let off the gas? Said otherwise, does this ever happen under constant throttle?

#3: your A/C might be off, but is your air set to blow over the windows? I find mine still cycles the A/C compressor on and off in this setting, producing a shudder. There are also the cooling fans coming on and off if you're sitting still and fully warmed up, this could contribute to the load. All automatic cars over a certain number of miles develop a shudder with the brake applied in Drive, as the idle is lower. If N it should not occur/be less pronounced since there is no load on the engine and the idle rpm is higher.

Do NOT baby this car. You need to drive it to redline once in a while to cycle all the intake paths and raise combustion temperature/pressure and clean the carbon out.

hello
thanx for the reply

#1 only occurs on a cold start, significantly worse in the cold winter
never occurs once car is warmed up

#2 only occurs at a constant throttle around 2000 RPM car rocks back and forth
never occurs on deceleration or at constant RPMs over 3000-7500

engine and throttle body were also cleaned by the dealership
honestly the car is worse now, with the A/C on it makes a bit of clacking once in a while
I think a heat shield or something might be loose or they forgot to tighten

Can you maybe make a video of each symptom?

well, it is something you have to feel
a video of the car shaking is probably not going to help, lol
thanx for trying though

Was mostly referring to this: #1 cold start / cold engine (no power or delay in vehicle movement)

The thing I'm trying to get at is concluding or eliminating that it's a transmission issue and not an engine issue.

Is it tapping noise? Make a video of the clacking noise. I bet it's the SSV valve. They tend to tap after cleaning.

The rocking feeling at 2000rpm, that's when you're in Park or Neutral, holding the accelerator pedal at 2000rpm, correct?
Does the rpm slightly jump up and down? Can you see the rpm gauge move when you're holding it at 2000rpm?
Does it feel like the car is shuddering?

Test this with the AC OFF. Because the AC can raise/lower your rpm.