Hmm, I guess I should hold off buying mine if there is a firmware update to be implemented.

Actually, thinking about this, how difficult would it be to re-flash the GOODbox? Is it a question of having the correct cable and software on your PC? I am wondering if it is a DIY job, because buying a serial cable might be cheaper than actually shipping to box back. :)

I use this device for programming: http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/to...p?tool_id=3353

It can be found online at various retailers for around $30. Then all you need is WinAVR to upload the correct firmware files. If anyone wants to play with this, PM me and I'll explain the details.

At the moment I do not have any updates to implement. The upgrade HiFlite999 mentioned is already complete, and is on all new GOODboxes, including those shipped last week. It resolves a possible corruption in the saved data regarding the AUX inputs, it is likely that you won't run into it at all. If you ordered earlier and are using AUX inputs and are experiencing issues with programming the AUX text, you can send it to me for the firmware fix.

Okay, cool. You have my order. :)

Aaargh! Saving you most of a long rant on the subject, I hate the way car people thing of MP/vacuum. Physically, there is no vacuum, only lower pressure! Airplanes are set up so that with the engine off, it simply reads the outside pressure. At sea level this is ~30"Hg (14.7 psi) with the engine off. Start the engine and at idle it reads ~10"Hg (5 psi). From then on, your power output is roughly proportional to the manifold pressure, "boosted" or not. For n.a. full throttle gives ~28" (14psi). For turboed, it gives ~40" (20 psi). Roughly, the lower the number, the lower the power, the higher the number, the higher the power.

Car people however reset the true zero to -14.7psi, sorta. The 'sorta' is that this method depends on what the air density is when you push the zero button. Push it at sea level on a standard day (barometer setting of 29.92"Hg). Engine off it reads zero. Now drive to Pikes Peak and shut off the engine; it now reads about -5 psi. Sliding the zero around this way makes everything unnecessarily confusing, and changes what "boost" means depending on the outside air density. "Boost" doesn't matter! Only the pressure in the intake manifold matters, not vacuum. (And the pressure only matters because it's roughly proportional to MAF which is the number that really matters.)

If you want the gauge to behave in a way consistent with the automobile world, zero it with the engine off.

Autoworld: -14.7..............(vacuum)........0......(boost).. .....+10

Skyworld: 0....................(pressure)..................+ 25

Just a thought regarding the "slot machine" effect to those who've experienced it.

Was your A/C on at the time?

^ yeah probably...

nice!

heh... you mean $300 !!!

Pieter, have you not experienced any display problems with your install?

Nope. Example: http://www.ecrater.com/p/5955260/avr-isp-mkii
I have seen the garbled display maybe twice, but I didn't see it until after I started production. I of course immediately tried to get it to do it again, but no luck. Very difficult to debug something like that. Powercycling the GOODbox solves it, but that could point to any number of causes. I will continue to see if I can pinpoint the cause.

Could the scrambled screen be caused by a fluctuation in the power supply??

It is possible, although there are sizeable capacitors on the board to mask this. And even then, when the power stabilizes, it should work like normal, since the data just passes through. Because the powercycle fixes it, it is clearly some kind of state it gets into on powerup.

Are you still enjoying the project Pieter, or is it getting to be a PITA?

I'm still amazed with what you've accomplished, and in such a short period of time.

If anything, it has been quite educational. I am always scared of updates to this thread, hoping I didn't screw up anyone's car haha. :scared:

Hey being an innovator is not an easy task. I look forward to your future endeavors.

^ Couldn't agree more.

Just picked it up... $29 shipping.... but no biggy... the kits linked from the manufaturers page were all in the $300 range. Thanks!

Those are probably not just the programmer, but also the prototyping board.

How about reading the fuel economy averages? LOL :P

By the way, Pieter, any idea how long international shipping is likely to take? Days? Weeks?

Got mine last night :)

I think that I ordered mine just before 9krpmrx8 ordered his (on wednesday). I assume that they were shipped at the same time, but I'm still waiting :( I'm in Wales

San Antonio is a lot closer than Cardiff :)

I think it takes about a week.

Unfortunately, I'll probably have to sell the car to pay the exorbitant customs charges :squint: