Does your babe consume oil?
 

Hey...just wanna check...does your babe actually drink oil? I had been checking(now at 4 plus k) and it is still at full. I didn't check when I collected the car so unless it was already overflowing, my car doesn't really consume oil. Dunno if I should be happy or worry...hahaha....

dun drink u oso hiam ar?actually,if u frequent high-revs,then it'l consume 'faster'...

Mine uses about 1/2 a quart per 1200 miles. Consumption varies by driving style.

Mine guzzles fuel and oil..... something about revving it to 9K all the time, I think.

I checked the oil normally after driving. Stop, clear my stuff...look around for visual inspection of damage if any etc... quick wipes then check oil level. It is always at the full mark. Wonder why.

Edit: I am always redlining the car. Hardly use 5th or 6th gear. And the way I drive borders on dangerous too....

hahaha.... the unfortunate thing is i dun have fix schedule of waking up. Early morning may not be a cold start for me. But it should be fine if the dipstick is always at full right? What I mean is that it may not be really full but it should still be fine as long as the oil pressure is sufficient. Or would it really affect performance drastically?

for every i think if im not wrong 5k for 1 ltr or something. do i really have to switch on the engine and trun after 5min let sit then check the oil lvl?

There's no "set" usage of oil right? Oil usage in the 8 will depend on many things I gather....how you drive, where you drive, etc. I drive mainly on ECP, but I've added 0.5 L and only done 1300 km so far. However, I always keep oil topped up, always have even before the 8. Not that I really need to...as long as the oil level is above the lower dipstick level then there's plenty of oil in the sump to do its job. I don't think the oil pressure gauge in the 8 means much, mine hasn't moved a fraction outside the level it was at when I first started driving it.

I wonder if Manwe's experience indicates that lower gear driving uses less oil, regardless of revs, than driving more often in 5th or 6th??

since the M flash about 1/2 qt every 3000 miles before the Mflash 1/2qt every 1000miles.

Great points Mugo and makes perfect sense....then how come Manwe driving lower gears at high revs uses less oil....cause those driving highway more often is "High air flow more oil discharge"?? Guess we'd need to look at some stats on the various scenarios you outline.

That's exactly what I did, but needed to at 1.3 k vs. 4.

Ahhh, ok, I'm no expert, but lets open the discussion as to how wide your throttle is open in terms of oil consumption, good point. Certainly the wider open the throttle, the more oil is consumed to lube the rotary housing. So where is the throttle opened widest, and at what gear per rev with our renesis?

Thanks dude....bear with me and help me along with this one...I implied that oil is burned in the rotary engine at it's max when the throttle is opened to the max, need oil to lube the housing at the extreme revs. Heck, if I rev my 8 standstill up to 9k, pure oil will come out the tailpipe. So, where is the maximum point of oil utilisation?

fwiw, there 'could' be less air flow at WOT than at partial throttle.

Velocity... :) Flooring the throttle in 5th gear at 1000 RPMS would likely bring in less air than half throttle in 1st gear at 7K.

Just a thought.

Flooring the throttle in 5th at 1000 rpms?? Contradiction in terms no?

I'm suggesting using "WOT" as a measure of 'when the most air is entering the engine may not be 100% accurate.

WOT is not a good indication. Air flow is determined by the amount of fuel injected(to maintain fuel/air ratio) and it dependent on the ECU map and different gears uses different mapping and so flooring at 5th or 6th might have lesser air flow due to leaner mixture(you wouldn't want even more air until it becomes too lean). Correct me if i am wrong.

I used the proper method to check oil level. Not surprising still near to full. Unless they really topped up beyond the full mark before I collected the car, it means that mine had consume negligible amount.

I drive using very low gear...normally in the region of 3rd and 4th as I weave in and out of cars and I find that the 5th or 6th gears aren't responsive to throttle(maybe due to lesser torque) for such adventures. Redline the car no less than 10 times each day when I drive and most of the time rpm is above 5k except cruising which is abt 4k plus. That is hardly low rpm.

Will wait and see. Keep you guys updated

Just a point to note regarding the oil pressure gauge... I read somewhere that the RX-8's Renesis engine does not have an actual oil pressure sensor. It just has a pressure switch that is activated when it senses 0.5kg/cm2 and signals the "oil pressure gauge" on the instrument panel to show roughly 60% of full scale deflection. That's why the needle on the oil pressure gauge is fixed and doesn't change with engine RPM. It just shows either about 60% or zero. Apparently it's not a serious problem on rotary engines as long as there is oil pressure. Hope this helps. Starting to miss the instrument cluster on my Stealth R/T liaoz :(

Yup you got that right. Cuscorex explained that to me last night so probably thinking of getting 2 defi gauges already but after a few months first.
still trying my best to run the thing in to 1500 before servicing. can't wait to try high rev.
can almost vomit blood the way I pump. today is one week and already pump 3 full and click 969 !!!

kewl... hope u meet the 1.5k clicks soon...

cheers

sgren... now you can truly appreciate the wonderful guzzling power of the rotary, eh? Actually, I'm doing at least 450km between pumps of about 55-56L. I guess your baby slurps more coz auto? Anyway, it'll get slightly better once fully run-in... All the best! Oil wise, I've done about 4K and I think I'll need to add about 0.5L soon.

i think your FC will get better after running in your renesis... coz mine got better FC after running in....

actually from your opinion what do you think is the mileage as considered break in.

IMO with modern precision engineering processes, a modern car should be more or less run-in at about 1k. However, most people tend to take a more conservative approach which may or may not be necessary. If you consider an improved FC as an indication of a proper run-in, my FC started improving and stabilizing at around 2.5k.

mine have better FC starting from 2k