CAT converter question
 

Hey guys

Has any one removed the CAT converter in chch does it have a different sound.What is the sensor in the cat CAT? magoo told me I couldnt have no CAT because they said it was a o2 sensor but every body here seems to replace it. please No trolling haha i've been trying to search but I cant find any info?

Also were can i get these in new zealand? see photo attached :ylsuper:

cheers sam

Moderation team I just want to point out that I am refraining from flaming the n00b for posting a picture of strakes and thinking that anyone here would be impressed by it.

Moderation team, I also want to point out that I'm refraining from stating how fucking stupid I think strakes are.

if you read im asking were i can get them from in New Zealand........

I know, Sam... I intentionally ignored that part :)

Can't buy em in NZ champ. Try googling "rx8 strakes".

Ebay is your friend when it comes to stuff like this Sam.

Seeing as you are from CHCH - I'll cut you some slack :)

Yes - taking the cat out or simply gutting it will make it louder .Worse is removing the resonator post cat - this will make it sound like a cheap chainsaw .
The sensor in the cat is the one used to determine if the cat is working properly or not . Removing the cat may cause a CEL or may not (depending on your model) . Your car will still run fine without that sensor.

Hi I realise this is an old post but having just been through a scenario that relates to this I thought I would share my experience.

My 03 6 speed RX8 had the stock CAT still on it when I bought it 1 year ago and it was rattling when taking off at the lights because the CAT insides were basically completely burnt out....not surprising if it had been on there for 9 years!!
I had a local muffler/exhaust shop jack it up and bust out the remains of the inside of the CAT and shake out the debris. This DID cause my CEL light to come on because the CAT 02 sensor was now detecting more flow/emission through the pipe.

The result was no more rattle, CEL, car drove completely fine though, a louder exhaust mid section sound from 6000 RPM onwards (it would kind of scream haha), and strong exhaust fumes when idling.
The fumes weren't horrible but lets just say your mates wouldn't stand around your car chatting to you for long if you were sitting in it with the engine running lol.

I know an open mid-pipe and no CAT improves performance but I got sick of the fumes so I searched Trademe and bought an aftermarket High-Flow CAT with resonator and 02 sensor port.
This was put on my car last week, it smells better, drives fine, doesn't have the scream when I hard rev it over 6000RPM (kinda miss that hahaha), and the CEL is still on.

I unplugged the negative battery cable (for 20+ minutes) to clear the CEL codes but the CEL came back on and I suspect it is the 02 CAT sensor triggering it.

I bought a couple (just one packet as there are two in each packet) of spark plug non-foulers from Amazon, these I plan on putting these on over the next 1-2 weeks and look forward to seeing if that stops CEL light.
Note: a CAT 02 sensor triggering the CEL does not hinder the cars performance, it's merely a warning, hence why people remove their CAT's altogether.


Well I hope what I have posted is of some help to someone in the future.

Cheers,
Steve.

You have to have the CEL cleared, disconnecting the battery won't do it

disconnect battery, stomp brake pedal 10-30 times, wait 10-15 minutes and reconnect.


or reset with a code reader.

Where in NZ are you located SteveFari?

Thanks shelldude I will give that a try, I have read that stomping on the brake will remove any charge but I thought after 30 mins disconnected you might get the same result.

I just wanted to mention that my CEL does actually disappear. It stays off while the traction control light is on for the system to go through that learning phase. After about 2 starts the traction control light vanishes and then about 1 min later my CEL light comes back on.

Hi slidin8 I'm in Akl.

Sorry for the bad info Steve, I have tried what the Dude suggested with no luck, the only way I could clear the CEL was to use a code reader.

FYI, the BHR midpipe + cat costs around NZ$1150 to your door including shipping, duty and tax.

Here's a break down for anyone looking to import goods:
Charles charged US$710 for parts and shipping = NZ$955.
Duty will be around $30.
GST on top of that will bring it to around NZ$1135

BTW, Autobend in Auckland and Chch supply Redback high flow race cats that will likely do a good job. Download the Redback cat PDF from their website for more details.
Stating the obvious, you'll need a midpipe to mount it in (or mod the OEM), and you may want a resonator.

Part#: cat300mr
Description: Redback performance converter 200CPSI with 3"outlet. Suits up to 4L petrol engines and temps up to 2000F. Low density stainless steel monolith matrix I.e. not ceramic.
Price: about $390

I can't vouch for the quality of the above cat as I went with the complete BHR option instead, but it's super cheap, and that's either because it's made local (well, Oz) or it's poor quality. Either way, if I hadn't gone with the BHR midpipe I would have gone with this cat, BHR res and custom midpipe.

Why did you get a cat when we don't have emissions testing here?

Personal choice. For me, two reasons: 1. Conscience got the better of me 2. Don't like the smell of my car when the CAT is still cold I figure a high flow CAT can't do too much harm. If/when my BHR/Davesport CAT fails I'll bash it out and see if it makes any difference to performance.

For those interested, here's a write-up on the BHR res + CAT midpipe I received a few weeks back:

Quality: The packaging was a bit banged up with slightly bent hanger when I received it. Build quality and fitment is good. Not as shiny as the BHR website pics, but it's under the car so not a concern. Supplied with new gasket, bolts and springs. Original midpipe has an attached heat shield. I didn't use any additional heat shielding (there's some stuck on the underside of the tunnel which I thought would suffice). I found that since the install the cabin the trans tunnel/centre console actually feels cooler.

Install Tip: Use silicon spray when adding/removing the midpipe hanger from the rubber mount.

Driving Impression: I'm running OE catback which suppresses the sound of the new midpipe. Also running the fairly loud AEM intake, so don't really hear the midpipe too much. I've noticed some increase in midrange acceleration, around 4-6k. No noticeable improvement to peak. I've got the optional CAT which probably limits performance. To make the most of this product, headers, catback and a tune are on the cards...or a turbo.

So hopefully this will help NZ/Oz folks decide whether to use an imported BHR as a suitable replacement/upgrade to OE midpipe.

Can you tell us the models where the CEL will come on? I'm thinking of gutting mine but won't do it if it causes a CEL.

If there is a catalyst element, the CEL should stay off. If there is no catalyst element, the CEL should come on. Most midpipes do not have a catalyst. Removing the catalyst from the stock cat should cause the CEL to come on.

The cat CEL is not model specific, will come on on all models. However any ignition coils other than A and C OEM coils will cause a coil communication error CEL on JDM models IIRC FYI

I have a 2006 NZ new RX8 which came up with a PO420 CEL due to the CAT internals being loose and almost gone. Have removed the internals and now the CEL's coming up still. If I get the rear O2 sensor switched off in the ECU will that stop the CEL and will it affect the ECU's tuning ability?

Gutting the cat won't turn off the CEL. It will stay on since the rear O2 sensor is monitoring the performance of the cat. Since your's is now gone, the CEL will remain on untill you get the code blocked with tuning software. Im not sure if the rear sensor has anything to do with actual engine performance as I have read contradicting stories.

Hopefully Brettus can chime in here. He knows how to tune and could help you with blocking your CEL and whether or not the rear O2 sensor does anything other than monitor the cat.

On a side note what is the difference between JDM models and NZ new models?

Will run perfectly without the rear sensor with cat gutted . There is a guy in Hawera that has the same program as i do so could delete the cel (although he also charges twice as much as I do) .

Main difference ecu wise is that the JDM model has a speed cut .

My one doesn't :)