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I have one set of Iannetti Ceramic seals that I need to sell cheaper than normal. The retail price for Mazda Competition Parts is $2700. My cost is close to $2000.
These are the ULTIMATE seals for the renesis and I recommend them for anyone who wants to make the most power over the longest period. In street usage these should outlast the car or literally not wear out in decades. The beauty of these is that they do not cause the normal wear to the apex grooves of the rotor and are unusually easy on the rotor housing surface due to their inherent lubricity. This same lubricious nature allow these to be used with higher spring pressures permitting better sealing at high revs as well as improved torque in the mid range. They are resistant to warpage or deformation brought about by high temperatures or even great temperature variation.
Although these seals are much stronger than the stock steel seals I don't recommend them to people using forced induction unless they have mastered their tune. These are not for the experimenting crowd. These are the choice seal of racers in the Star Mazda series and the Koni Challenge especially since they can be used over and over and over again.
Iannetti is the ONLY brand that we have used since 1990 other than stock OEM.
I can provide 3mm and we're working on some 2 mm deep groove (FD RX7 Dimension) non ceramics for the purpose of EXTREME boost.
Paul.
Paul
Not sure I would trust the Mazda cast to be deep enough in extreme load situations. There doesn't appear to be much extra material there after making the change in the machining. Of course, it's pretty hard to measure that area without having done a CMM. Just sayin'.
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Not sure I would trust the Mazda cast to be deep enough in extreme load situations. There doesn't appear to be much extra material there after making the change in the machining. Of course, it's pretty hard to measure that area without having done a CMM. Just sayin'.
They're good for deep groove 2mm. 3 mm may be possible but like Dannobre said I wouldn't do it. We cut Renesis rotors apart 4 or 5 years ago to evaluate these things.
Paul.
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When I was thinking about doing 3mm Ceramics myself; after talking to a bunch of folks it seemed that 1 out of 4 rotors would crack after warm up/break in due to material loss and the motor would have to be torn down and a new rotor installed....a 25% chance of failure-IMO not worth it.
However the FD sized seals seemed to work fine; just have a good shop machine them.
When I was thinking about doing 3mm Ceramics myself; after talking to a bunch of folks it seemed that 1 out of 4 rotors would crack after warm up/break in due to material loss and the motor would have to be torn down and a new rotor installed....a 25% chance of failure-IMO not worth it.
However the FD sized seals seemed to work fine; just have a good shop machine them.
Yes. We use deep groove renesis rotors in a lot of competition motors that we run. It is VERY important to ensure that whoever is machining the grooves knows what they're doing as many a motor has been ruined due to lack of proper knowledge and experience in this area.
Paul.
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They're good for deep groove 2mm. 3 mm may be possible but like Dannobre said I wouldn't do it. We cut Renesis rotors apart 4 or 5 years ago to evaluate these things.
Paul.
Us too.
BTW, wanted to thank you guys again for balancing that rotating assembly with our rotors.
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Oh he can drive. He can drive beyond the limits of the tires, the engine, the car or anything else.
Paul, I'm curious what your thoughts are as to the best option for seals for a boosted Renny motor. I've got a motor being worked on by Brian at BDC, but I'm a bit stumped on ideas for the seals. Suggestions? I ask here because I notice that both you and Racing Beat do not recommend ceramic seals for boosted motors and I'm curious why not?
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Paul, I'm curious what your thoughts are as to the best option for seals for a boosted Renny motor. I've got a motor being worked on by Brian at BDC, but I'm a bit stumped on ideas for the seals. Suggestions? I ask here because I notice that both you and Racing Beat do not recommend ceramic seals for boosted motors and I'm curious why not?
From what I've seen and through my limited knowledge I'd say:
1)They're hella expensive.
2)Though, they are more resistant to detonation, they are not invincible.
3)Get your tune right BEFORE you buy them, because if you don't, it's an expensive mistake.
4)They'll last nearly forever on a renesis with a perfect tune due to great lubricative nature and lack of wear + they will not damage other engine components, so its a great choice for a stable engine. Newly FI'ed engine with a less than perfect tune is NOT stable enough to stay detonation free.
Anyone correct me if I'm wrong- Don't claim to be an expert
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gas is on the left, brake is on the right. how hard is that????
Paul, I'm curious what your thoughts are as to the best option for seals for a boosted Renny motor. I've got a motor being worked on by Brian at BDC, but I'm a bit stumped on ideas for the seals. Suggestions? I ask here because I notice that both you and Racing Beat do not recommend ceramic seals for boosted motors and I'm curious why not?
Ceramics of the correct dimensions and properly clearanced are the best for NA and FI if the tuner is totally confident. There are people running 40 plus PSI with humungous turbos on alcohol making 1000 hp to the wheels with ceramics. A motor at this level of tune can only last X runs of the quarter no matter waht seals you use. There are people using steel seals making less than 300hp breaking seals (With poor tune). There are several variables including fuel octane, intake air temps, ignition timing, air/fuel ratios etc that always need to be considered. The approach of some seal manufacturers has been to make seals that will bend and distort greatly when faced with great pressures and temperatures but of course they will kill power when this occurs. My opinion is: Don't create the environment where seal breakage could occur in the first place. When ceramics break they can do more damage than a steel seal generally speaking. In a renesis it's worse than the older peripheral exhaust motors because material can't escape as easily. The strong ceramic fibers can do a number on the internal parts when catastrophic falure takes place.
I'll try to PM you what approach I recommend in better detail.
Paul.
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Your Ultimate choice for Quality New and Used Mazda parts.
Start the RE-volution! www.mazmart.com
Home of RE-medy Water Pump and Thermostat
From what I've seen and through my limited knowledge I'd say:
1)They're hella expensive.
2)Though, they are more resistant to detonation, they are not invincible.
3)Get your tune right BEFORE you buy them, because if you don't, it's an expensive mistake.
4)They'll last nearly forever on a renesis with a perfect tune due to great lubricative nature and lack of wear + they will not damage other engine components, so its a great choice for a stable engine. Newly FI'ed engine with a less than perfect tune is NOT stable enough to stay detonation free.
Anyone correct me if I'm wrong- Don't claim to be an expert
You are correct. These seals I'm selling are not intended for an FI renesis and will be EXTEMELY long lasting with NA environments. For someone who can afford these they would have many benefits longterm. 200k miles with great compression and power on the street would be a walk in the park.
Paul.
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Your Ultimate choice for Quality New and Used Mazda parts.
Start the RE-volution! www.mazmart.com
Home of RE-medy Water Pump and Thermostat
What I find interesting is that - everyone agree's they are at LEAST as detonation resistant as a metal seal; so why are they are not recommended for FI?
If cost is the issue - then simply say that they are expensive.... but a renesis seal failing can cause plenty of extra damage all on it's own...
i would say that Paul is referring to a cost benefit type of thing? Boosted renasis engine have a way of not lasting 100K. Probaly because we mostly are idiots just having fun--self being a one of the 1st club members.
I wish they had ceramic side seals.
Oh by the way Paul just spoke with S --in need for a trans and to make sure I was one of the 1st on the list for the oil bypass mod.
Have you seen the results coming from converting our cars to a single oil cooler? Nice results --you should look. I see an entire kit???
OD
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Last edited by olddragger; 11-25-2009 at 12:57 PM.
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